How to Replace the Waterpump and Timing Chain

How to
Replace your Waterpump & Timing Chain
by Lars Grimsrud
SVE
Automotive Restoration
Musclecar, Collector & Exotic Auto Repair &
Restoration
Broomfield, CO
Rev. B 6-15-00
This tech paper will discuss the replacement of
the waterpump and the timing chain & gears on a 1985 L98
(“regular” Chevy 350) C4 Corvette. Other years are very
similar in procedure, and utilize the same overall technique.
The
procedure outlined here differs slightly from the Service Manual, and is
based on my years of experience doing this work in the quickest, least
painful, most economical way while keeping the level of quality high. It
is recognized that other people will have different methods of doing
things, and may disagree with specific methods and procedures that I
use.
Overview
The waterpump and the timing chain are virtually
regular maintenance items on a small block Chevy, but it can be costly to
have this replacement work performed by a shop. With the proper tools and
instruction, this work can be accomplished by anybody with some mechanical
ability, but some words of caution are in order.
First, it is
important to have the proper tools. This article includes a list of tools
and supplies needed to do this work. I would not recommend attempting to
do this work if you do not have the proper tools: it will become an
extremely frustrating experience, and you’ll end up with a partially
disassembled car being towed to the shop. You can buy all the tools for
less than the cost of having the work done, so get set up with the right
stuff before you try doing this job in a make-shift
fashion.
Second, be aware that this is not a particularly
“fun” job. There is nothing magically difficult about it, but
you’re going to get dirty, you’re going to sweat, you’re
going to be uncomfortable, and you’re going to make a mess out of
your garage. If this does not sound appealing to you, reconsider doing
this work yourself. If you’re up for the challenge and satisfaction
of doing the work, then proceed!
When to Replace
The L98
Corvette uses an aluminum-bodied waterpump. It is a good, durable unit,
and has good life expectancy providing the cooling system is properly
maintained. I have seen these units fail as early as 80,000 miles, and
I’ve seen some go past 150,000. The failure mode is usually failure
of the shaft bushing and seal, causing the pump to leak out of the drain
hole in the bottom of the casting. This leakage can start very subtly,
with the only indication that your car will run hot, and your radiator is
mysteriously a little low after a couple of days’ driving. Other
times you’ll end up with a massive leak and a noticeable puddle of
antifreeze under your car. The leak is not readily visible from the top
of the engine, so you’ll appear to have a mystery leak. To check,
simply run your finger under the “nose” of the waterpump
behind the waterpump pulley. If it comes up wet, it’s time to
replace.
Timing chains gradually deteriorate. The force required
to turn the camshaft , which in turn is connected to the distributor and
the oil pump, gradually “stretches” the timing chain over
time. As the chain stretches, the camshaft timing becomes retarded. This
causes a loss of low-rpm throttle response and low-end torque. If the
situation is allowed to go on, the chain will eventually become so slack
that it will jump one or several teeth on the camgear. At best, this will
cause a dramatic loss of power with backfiring up through the induction
system. At worst, this will cause valve-to-piston interference, and will
trash your engine. For this reason, it is best to replace your timing
chain and gears as a preventative maintenance step, before the chain goes
too slack.
You can check the total amount of slack in your chain
very easily without disassembling the engine. Since the distributor is
connected directly to the camshaft, you can actually “see” the
backlash in the valvetrain like this:
Pop your distributor cap off.
Put a socket, short extension, and a ratchet on the harmonic balancer
bolt. Turn the crank just enough in one direction so that the rotor
starts to move. Stop. Scratch a mark on your harmonic balancer or
harmonic balancer pulley at the timing mark plate. Now slowly turn the
crank the opposite direction while observing the rotor. As soon as the
rotor starts to move, stop. Note how many degrees the crank has moved.
This is how much slop you have in your chain. Divide the number by two,
and this is how many degrees retarded your cam is running. Retarding your
cam by 2 degrees will noticeably affect performance. If you’re
running twice that amount, you’re getting pretty close to jumping a
gear. Most small block Chevys will not jump the gear before 120,000 miles
(but I’ve seen exceptions..), but will see a performance improvement
by changing the chain at about 90,000. In other words, when your
waterpump goes out, it’s probably time to change the chain,
too.
The Difficult Part
Right off the bat, let me tell you what
the difficult part is. Chevy presses their harmonic balancers and their
crankshaft timing gears onto the crank snout. They can be a bear to pull
off, especially when you’re working with the engine in the car. I
will talk about the technique and tools needed to do this as easily as
possible, but be aware that it is not a pleasant process. All other
aspects of doing this work are very straight forward and relatively
simple.
Tools and Equipment Required
As a minimum, you will need
the following tools:
1. Full set of �” drive sockets,
standard, with ratchet, extensions and breaker bar
2. Full set of
3/8″ drive sockets, standard and metric, deep & regular, with
ratchet & extensions
3. �” to 3/8″ adapter so you can use
your �” drive ratchet on your 3/8″ drive sockets
4. Flat
bladed screwdrivers of various lengths
5. Set of Torx wrenches
6.
Combination wrenches:13mm, 14mm, �”, 9/16″, 15/16″
7.
Flare nut wrench (“Lion Wrench”) 5/8″
8. Regular &
needle nosed pliers
9. Big hammer
10. Sharp chisel
11. Torque
Wrench
12. Harmonic Balancer Puller set (See note and description on
this)
13. Drain pan
14. Razor blade
15. Rags
16. Silicone
sealant
17. 1 qt Power steering fluid
18. 2 gal. Antifreeze
19.
Waterpump
20. Timing chain & gear set
21. Gasket set for timing
chain R&R
22. Bag of kitty litter (“Floor Dri”)
23. Drop
light
24. Teflon Pipe Thread Tape
25. Assembly Lube (like Lubriplate
or equivalent)
26. Timing light
Optional, but recommended and
useful, tools: A cheap �” drive socket set, like the ones you can
buy from Harbor Freight, Tool King, etc. with the big “Made in
Taiwan” sticker on it. I never use these sockets as
“sockets.” You use them as special spacers and backing rings
to press things on and off and to hammer on and beat on. When
you’re through using them for this job, they work GREAT for pressing
out A-arm bushings, Rear End bushings, alternator bearings, and anything
else you can think of. You gotta’ get one of these.
A note
regarding the Balancer Puller Set: The puller set consists of a forged,
finger-shaped center plate that has a large-diameter, center bolt running
through it. This center bolt typically has a tapered, swivel end-piece on
it that presses against the crankshaft. The harmonic balancer is
connected to the finger-shaped center plate using 3 bolts typically
provided in the set. All of the sets that I have seen have a center bolt
which is too long to fit onto the front of the Corvette balancer and still
be able to get a wrench onto the bolt without hitting the fan/radiator. I
have solved this problem by having a friend with a lathe cut my
puller’s center bolt down to 3.25″ total length, and
re-machining the tapered end that slips into the swivel end piece.
Modifying your puller to this configuration will greatly ease the job, and
will keep you from having to pull the fan, shroud, and radiator out of the
car. It would be worth your while to do this mod, even if you had to hire
someone at a machine shop to do the work for
you.
Procedure
This procedure typically takes me about 4
hours from start to finish on a C4, but I’ve done it a few times.
Allow yourself a day for a leisurely pace of wrenching and beer
drinking.
General tips:
Keep your work area clean and organized.
It’ll make the job seem much easier. I like to lay a clean towel
out on the ground by the car or on an adjacent workbench. As each bolt,
screw, nut and component is removed, I lay the parts out carefully on the
towel. Whenever possible, I put screws back into the holes that they came
out of after the component is removed. Wipe up spills and sweep the area
as you progress to keep things clean and pleasant.
On a C4, it is
very easy and practical to use the top of the inlet plenum as a storage
area for tools and parts when working on the engine. Avoid this as much
as possible: it will get oil and grease all over your plenum, and
eventually, something will roll off and disappear into your engine
compartment or under the car. If you want to use the plenum as a
temporary “tool holder,” at least put a towel over the plenum
to protect it.
Good work practices will make this job much less
frustrating. Virtually all of the work will be performed from the
passenger side of the engine compartment, so set up your tools and work
area on the right side of the car.
Step-by-Step:
� Park the
car on a level surface.
� Remove the MAF with the plastic air duct
connecting the Throttle Body to the Air Cleaner Housing. Be careful
pulling the electrical connector off the MAF so as not to damage the wires
or the connector.
� Drain the engine coolant. I do this by just
yanking the lower radiator hose at the radiator and removing the radiator
cap.
� Remove the upper radiator hose.
� Before removing
the serpentine belt, break loose the waterpump pulley attach bolts. The
belt, being in place, will keep the pulley from turning as you break the
bolts loose. Put a box wrench on the bolts and give the wrench a few
sharp whacks with your hammer to break them loose.
� Take a look at
your serpentine belt routing. If you think that there’s a
possibility that you’ll forget how it’s routed around the
various components, take a minute with a pencil and a piece of paper to
make a crude sketch of the routing. It’ll save you some trial and
error later…
� Using a �” drive ratchet inserted into the
serpentine belt tensioner (located just underneath the A/C compressor),
take the tension off the belt and slip the belt off the A/C compressor
pulley. Release the tensioner and remove the belt.
� Remove the
water pump pulley.
� Remove the Throttle Body Heater Hose between the
TB and the Intake Manifold.
� Release the pressure on the fuel
system. There is a pressure port on the engine fuel rail on the passenger
side of the engine towards the rear of the rail. Either put a big rag
under the port to catch the fuel as you depress the Schraeder Valve and
relieve pressure, or hook up an Airconditioning Charging Hose to the port
and allow the fuel to flow into a can. Also, remove your gas cap:
pressure in the tank caused by a warm day will cause fuel to be pushed out
of the tank and to the engine.
� There are two components mounted
right over the front of the engine related to the A.I.R. system. These
components are connected with rubber hoses attached with clamps. The
component located closest to the A/C Compressor is the Air Switch
Solenoid. The component located in the center front of the engine is the
Air Control (Diverter) Solenoid. Loosen the hose clamp at the A.I.R. pump
connecting the hose from the Air Control Solenoid. Remove the bolt
attaching the Air Control Solenoid to the top of the Waterpump. Remove the
vacuum hose and the electrical connector from the Air Control Solenoid.
Disconnect the hoses connecting the Air Control Solenoid to the Inlet
Filter Tube (lower hose) and to the Air Switch Solenoid. Now remove the
Air Control Solenoid.
� To remove the Air Switch Solenoid, loosen
the hose clamp at the rear of the Solenoid and pull the hose off.
Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the two 10mm screws attaching
the Air Switch Solenoid to the A/C Compressor Bracket. Disconnect the Air
Switch Solenoid from the lower hose. Leaving the vacuum hose in place
(it’s retained by a locking feature that you can remove if you want
to, but I just leave it), remove the Air Switch Solenoid and lay it over
towards the driver’s side of the engine out of the way.

Remove the electrical connector from the A/C Compressor.
� Remove the
4 (10mm) screws attaching the A/C Receiver/Drier: There are two down on
the frame crossover, and two on the radiator fan shroud.
� Remove the
nut attaching the rear A/C Compressor Strap to the forward exhaust
manifold bolt.
� Remove the rear, outboard A/C Compressor mounting
bolt and the rear Compressor Strap.
� The forward, lower A/C
Compressor mounting bolt is hard to see. It is on the forward side of the
compressor right below the pulley. It is usually covered in grease, and
very well disguised. You cannot use a socket or a box wrench on it,
because the pulley will interfere. Once you’ve scraped the grease
away from it, you can use an open end wrench to break the bolt loose. The
bolt also has a Torx provision in the head (keep scraping the grease
away… you’ll find it). Using a T45 Torx, remove the
bolt.
� Remove the two nuts securing the A/C Compressor bracket to
the passenger side of the waterpump. The A.I.R. Inlet Tube & Filter can
now be pulled up and removed. The entire Compressor/Bracket assembly will
now be loose.
� Make sure that your gas cap is removed and that
pressure has been relieved on the fuel rail. Place a rag under the fuel
line fittings at the fuel rail. Using your 5/8″ Flare Nut Wrench,
loosen and disconnect the fuel supply and fuel return lines at the rail.
Be careful not to loose or damage the “O”-ring seals attached
to the ends of the fuel lines.
� Slide the loose Compressor/Bracket
assembly forward as far as possible. You can now get to the rear upper
Compressor mounting bolt. Loosen it and remove it. By wiggling and
positioning the Compressor just right, there is just barely enough space
to pull the bolt out the back.
� Remove the Compressor from its
bracket and let it hang towards the passenger side of the engine
compartment. Remove the Bracket from the engine compartment (threading
the fuel lines out of it) and set it aside. Put all the hardware
you’ve removed back into the holes that it all came out of.

Remove the lower radiator hose and the one heater hose from the
waterpump.
� Remove the 4 waterpump bolts. You’ll need a deep
socket on the passenger side. Note that the two studded bolts on the
passenger side are different lengths: lay them on your clean towel in such
a way that you’ll remember which one goes where. Remove the
waterpump.
� Using your 15/16″ box wrench, remove the heater hose
fitting from the waterpump. Clean it up with a wire wheel, apply new
teflon tape to the threads, and install the old fitting into your new
waterpump.
If you are not replacing the timing chain, you are now
ready to scrape off the waterpump sealing surfaces with a razor blade,
clean all your parts and bolts up, and put things back together with your
new waterpump. If you’re going on to the chain, keep right on
going…
� Remove the 3 bolts attaching the harmonic balancer
pulley to the balancer.
� Remove the harmonic balancer center attach
bolt. If you have a manual transmission car, put the car in gear and set
the brake. This will keep the crankshaft from turning. If you have an
automatic car, put your socket & ratchet on the bolt and give it a few
whacks with a hammer to break it loose.
� Remove the pulley.

Place an oil drain pan under the steering gear. Using your 5/8″
flare nut wrench, remove the power steering fluid line from the steering
gear located right in front of the harmonic balancer. This is going to
leak, drip and make a mess for as long as you’re working with the
balancer, so be prepared to get fluid all over your hands and
tools…
� Before attaching your balancer puller to the
harmonic balancer, grease the threads on the puller’s center bolt,
and grease the swivel tip’s friction surfaces. Now attach your
custom-length balancer puller to the harmonic balancer and come up with a
combination of sockets/extensions that will allow you to get a breaker bar
onto the puller tool while avoiding contact with the steering gear,
crossmember, and radiator fan assembly. If you have cut your tool to the
right length, you will be able to attach a �” drive socket with a
breaker bar without hitting the steering gear or the crossmember.
� To
keep the crankshaft from turning while tightening the puller center bolt
on an automatic car, jam a long screwdriver in between the bolts that
attach the puller to the balancer and allow the screwdriver to get jammed
up against the power steering pump pulley. With the crankshaft jammed in
this fashion, tighten the puller center bolt with a 12-point socket and
your breaker bar. Due to the limited space, you will most likely have to
tighten the bolt 1/12th of a turn at a time, and keep repositioning the
socket. Start tightening the bolt to pull the balancer off the
crankshaft. You may want to place some rags over towards the
driver’s side of the engine compartment just in case your grip slips
on the breaker bar. There are lots of sharp, hard things for you to cut
and bruise your knuckles on over there if your breaker bar were to
slip… This is a tedious, slow, messy process (since the steering
gear fluid line is soaking your tools with dripping power steering fluid).
With a bunch of grunting, sweat, and cussing the guy who wrote this
stinking article, the balancer will slowly come off the crank.

Re-attach the power steering fluid line and tighten it.
� Have a
beer. You’re gonna’ need it.
� Remove the 7/16″ hex
head bolts attaching the timing chain cover. These bolts are very close
to the cover itself, and you may need to use a thin-walled, 12-point,
�” drive socket to get a grip on them.
� The timing chain
cover has a lower lip on it. This lip is captured when the oil pan is
installed (during engine assembly, the timing chain cover is installed
first, and then the oil pan is installed over this lip to capture and
secure the cover and the lower gasket). These engines are actually not
designed to have the timing chain cover removed without first removing the
oil pan. Once you have removed the timing chain cover screws, you will,
therefore, have to do a little twisting, prying and wiggling to get the
cover and its lip to release from the oil pan. It’s okay if you
bend the lip a little: it can be bent back afterwards. Just get the cover
off. Wipe off the oil pan lip, and stuff a big rag into the opening to
keep dirt, debris, crap and tools from being dropped into the oil
pan.
� The two timing gears are each identified with a timing
mark in the form of a little dot. Before pulling the gears off, I like to
pre-align the dots so that I know that the new gears can simply be slipped
right into place without any other alignment. You can install the
harmonic balancer attach bolt in the crank so you can turn the crankshaft
with your ratchet. Rotate the crankshaft so that the dots are right
adjacent to each other (cam gear dot straight down, crank gear dot
straight up). Now, if you use your hammer to whack the ratchet on your
crank bolt, you can get the bolt out of the crank without the crank
actually turning.
� Remove the 3 bolts attaching the cam gear to the
cam. Use a hammer to whack your wrench or ratchet to keep the engine from
turning over. Remove the gear and the chain.
� This next
technique (Method 1) has received some criticism from some
“purists,” but I assure you it works. There are pullers
available to pull the crank gear off the crankshaft. This gear, however,
is pressed on pretty freakin’ hard, and I’ve broken pullers
and knuckles in unsuccessful attempts to get these gears off. I’ve
also seen guys who use, and recommend, a torch to heat up the gear to get
it off. Personally, I would never use an open flame in an engine
compartment, especially since we just disconnected the fuel lines from the
fuel rail… If you have a puller, use it. If it works, that’s
great. If not, here’s how to get the gear off:
� Method 1:
With the crank gear “dot” pointing straight up, the keyway is
also in a near-top location. This is the weakest point on the gear. Using
your sharp chisel and your big hammer, put the chisel in between the two
gear teeth right above the keyway. You can do it at an angle if you need
to. I have best luck working from the driver’s side of the engine
compartment for this operation, but I’m right handed. Now give that
chisel some confident whacks with your hammer. Space is limited, so you
won’t be able to get any over-the-shoulder type of swings, so just
keep whacking away at that chisel. Don’t whack the crank
snout…! After a few whacks, the hardened heat treated crank gear
will crack right at the keyway, and you can slip it off the crank with
your bare fingers. I’ve had the gears crack in as little as 4
blows. The last one I did took about 50 solid hits, and then the gear
broke right in half. This will not damage the crank, and it is perfectly
safe to do (as long as you don’t hit your fingers). I have had 100%
success with this method in 25 years of replacing small block timing
chains.
� Method 2: This method has been used with success, and has
been submitted by, BADMUDE (Ron). If splitting the gear with a chisel has
you a bit nervous, you can obtain a �” thick steel bar about
6″ long. Lay the bar across the front of the engine block just
underneath the timing chain cover alignment pins. This will place the bar
behind the crank gear. Now, using your trusty chisel and hammer, drive
the chisel in between the steel bar and the timing gear. Do it just off
centerline of the gear so the chisel does not go down and hit the crank
snout. This will force the gear off the crank. If it doesn’t
budge, you’ll have to go back to Method 1.
� The disassembly
process is now complete. Take a little time now to clean things up. Use
the razor blade on the front of the block to make sure you get all of the
old timing chain cover gasket removed. Wipe things down, and clean up
your timing chain cover and all of the hardware. Dry and sweep the floor,
and get your tools cleaned up and organized.
� If your new timing
chain has the option for one of three different installation positions,
make sure you read and understand the installation instructions for
correct installation. I almost always install my chains “straight
up,” unless I have accurately degreed the camshaft and determined
that an offset is needed to correct some deficiency. This is seldom the
case.
� Clean up the crankshaft snout. If there are any burrs on
the snout or on the keys in the snout, smooth with a file or emery cloth.
Wipe it all clean.
� Slip the new crank gear onto the crank snout as
far as it will go. Make sure that you are using the correct keyway
alignment slot if you have a gear cut for multiple alignment choices.
Using an appropriate-sized socket from your �” drive socket set,
place a socket over the crank snout and against the front face of the
crank gear. Tap the socket with your big hammer until the gear is seated
on the crank. There’s not much space for tapping, so you’ll
need to tap using a lot of short blows using the side of the hammer. If
you don’t have a big socket to tap the gear into place, you can tap
on the gear directly with a plastic dead-blow mallet or find some other
object to tap against. You just don’t want to hit any of the gear
teeth directly with a metal hammer. Breaking a tooth off your new gear is
a real drag.
� Temporarily slip the cam gear onto the cam. Check
your alignment dots and verify that they are still pointing straight
together. The crank may have moved slightly during the gear splitting
process. Turn the crank or the cam as required to make the dots line up
perfectly. Remove the cam gear.
� Slip the chain over the cam gear.
With the cam gear dot pointing straight down, engage the chain with the
crank gear and slip the cam gear onto the cam. If you hold your tongue
just right, you’ll get it right the first time. If not, you might
have to pull the gear back off the cam and shift things over a tooth.
Once you have the gear and chain in place, take a good look at the dots to
make sure they are really aligned. One tooth off is pretty noticeable.
Once you’re sure it’s right, put the 3 bolts into the cam gear
and tighten it up. Torque to 20 ft/lbs. I now like to install the crank
bolt and turn the crankshaft over with my ratchet two times and watch as
the dots come together just to make sure that they REALLY do line up. I
wouldn’t want to do this job twice…
� Since the timing
chain cover is not designed to be installed after the oil pan is in place,
I now do a little cover modification to ease the installation process. If
you do not do this mod, you will have one heck of a time installing the
cover with the lower seal, and chances are that the seal will leak. On
the lower inside surface of the cover, there is a lower seal backing
doubler welded in place. This doubler runs the entire length of the
curved, lower seal. Using a bench grinder, a high speed cut-off wheel, a
ball grinder, or your teeth, trim about 3/8″ off of both ends of
this doubler. Smooth and deburr the cut edges.
� Knock the old
front seal out of the timing chain cover using a screwdriver and a hammer.
Make sure you provide some backing for the cover when you do this, or you
can distort the cover pretty badly. Using one of your handy �” drive
sockets as backing, tap the new front seal into the cover.
� Pull the
rag out of the oil pan opening.
� Temporarily install the timing
chain cover lower seal into the cover. The seal, at its ends, has a
little flared-out tip. Cut these flared-out tips off of both ends with a
razor blade to make the seal straight. Now, test-fit the cover to the
block and practice installing it. Normally, you need to install the lower
edge of the cover first, push downwards on the cover to slightly compress
the lower gasket, then push the cover in towards the block, engaging the
alignment pins. You don’t have to install it all the way -
just make sure you think it’s gonna’ go and that you have the
technique down…
� Apply a thin coat of silicone sealant to
the timing chain cover gasket and stick the gasket to the front of the
engine block.
� Apply a bead of silicone to the timing chain cover
lower seal lip and stick the lower seal into position in the cover.
Center it up. Apply a thin bead of silicone around the timing chain cover
gasket surface. Apply a bead of silicone to the lower seal, and place a
big wad of sealant right on both ends of the lower seal.
� Making
every effort not to get the silicone all over your hands and the car,
install the timing chain cover using the technique you practiced earlier.
Get the lower edge in first, then push down and back to engage the
alignment pins. Get a couple of the lower screws into the cover to hold
it in place. Don’t tighten them yet. Now get the rest of the
screws into the cover just finger tight. Once they’re all there,
take some of the excess silicone that has squeezed out of the lower seal
end areas, put it on the end of your finger, and mash it into the area
right at the ends of the lower seal, both sides. Wipe your hands off, and
tighten up the timing chain cover. Once tight, wipe off excess
sealant.
� Wipe out the inside bore of the harmonic balancer and make
sure there are no burrs. I like to take a little 400-grit sandpaper and
smooth out the bore just to make sure, then clean it well. Apply a thin
coat of assembly lube to the outside diameter of the harmonic balancer
where the front seal will ride. Apply a thin coat of assembly lube to the
inside diameter of the balancer. Clean the balancer attach bolt, making
sure there is no dirt in the threads, and apply a thin coat of assembly
lube to the bolt threads.
� Place the harmonic balancer onto the
crankshaft, aligning it with the keyway. You can install it in one of two
ways: 1. Buy a Grade 8 bolt of the same thread size as the attach bolt,
except make it about 3/4″ longer. Lube the threads, use the thick
washer off of the “real” bolt, and use the long bolt to pull
the balancer onto the crank. Once the balancer has been pulled onto the
crank about �”, remove the long bolt and use the “real”
bolt. Keep tightening and pulling the balancer on until you can torque
the bolt to 60 ft/lbs. Then remove the bolt. 2. Your second option, if
you can’t get a suitable bolt to do the job, is to use the
“real” bolt. Problem is, this bolt is too short to engage in
the threads after you first slip the balancer onto the crank. Using a
plastic dead-blow hammer, you can tap the balancer onto the crank far
enough that the bolt will engage. There is very little space to get a
swing, so you will be tapping for a while. It is important that you get
AT LEAST �” thread engagement on the bolt before you make any
attempt to pull the balancer on with the bolt. Otherwise you will strip
the threads out of the crank as you tighten the bolt. So keep tapping.
You’re safest if you can get one bolt diameter of thread engagement.
Tighten to 60 ft/lbs and remove the bolt.
� Install the harmonic
balancer pulley using the 3 attach bolts. Re-install the center bolt and
torque to 60 ft/lbs.
� Apply a thin coat of silicone to both
sides of the waterpump gaskets and stick the gaskets to the waterpump.
Slip the 4 bolts through the holes on the waterpump and install the
waterpump to the engine. Make sure you’ve transferred the old
heater hose nipple…
� Install the lower radiator hose and the
heater hose to the waterpump. Attach the radiator hose to the
radiator.
� Place the A/C Compressor Bracket into position.
You’ll need to feed the two fuel lines and the one tube for the
A.I.R. system up through the center of the bracket. You have to wrestle a
bit with the compressor to hold it out of the way while you feed the
bracket into position. Get the bracket just barely engaged onto the
waterpump studs.
� Mount the Compressor into the Bracket and slip the
upper, rear attach bolt through the Bracket and the Compressor while
holding the entire assembly as far forward as possible. Tighten it up.
� Slide the Compressor and Bracket assembly into position on the
waterpump studs. Install the forward, lower attach bolt. You’ll
have to wiggle the whole thing around a bit to get the lower bolt to align
with the threaded hole in the engine. Tighten the bolt with your T45
Torx.
� Install the Compressor Rear Mounting Strap to the exhaust
manifold bolt. Place the Strap up against the compressor and install the
lower rear mounting bolt. Tighten all the attach bolts up.

Install the A.I.R. Inlet Tube and Filter to the studded waterpump bolts
and install the retaining nuts on the studs. Tighten it all up.

Install the 4 bolts attaching the A/C receiver/drier to the frame
crossover and to the fan shroud.
� Install the waterpump pulley and
snug up the bolts the best you can for now.
� Install the Air
Control Solenoid by slipping the hoses into position and installing the
bolt into the top of the waterpump.
� Install the Air Switch
Solenoid by engaging its hoses and installing the two screws attaching it
to the A/C Compressor Bracket.
� Make sure your wire harness is
routed correctly along the front of the engine and that no wires are
pinched. Make sure you have enough slack in the harness to hook up the
connectors to the two solenoids. Hook up the wires, and attach the vacuum
hose to the Air Control Solenoid. Tighten all hose clamps.

Install the Throttle Body Heater hose.
� Install the A/C Compressor
electrical connector.
� Install the serpentine belt, using your
�” drive ratchet to compress the belt tensioner.
� Tighten
the waterpump pulley bolts. Give your box end wrench a couple of taps
with the hammer to snug them up.
� Install the upper radiator
hose.
� Install the MAF with its air duct. Hook up the MAF
electrical connector.
� Fill antifreeze.
� Fill power
steering fluid.
� Install your gas cap.
� Fire it up and
check for leaks. Make sure radiator is full.
� Verify ignition
timing and adjust if required.
� Test drive, and clean up your
mess.
Cost
My cost for doing this operation to my car in
June of 2000 included the following parts:
Cloyes True Roller
Timing Chain and Gear Set
New (not rebuilt) Waterpump
Complete
gasket set
5 qts Mobil 1 Engine Oil
AC Oil Filter
2 gal
Antifreeze
1 qt Power Steering Fluid
Total cost:
$153.22
Questions, Comments & Technical Assistance
If you
have questions or comments regarding this article, or if you notice any
errors that need to be corrected (which is quite possible since I’m
writing this from memory…), please feel free to drop me an e-mail.
Also, if you need any technical assistance or advice regarding this
process, or other maintenance issues, feel free to contact
me:
lars.grimsrud@lmco.com