R&R on Clutch M/C line
Remove and Replace the Clutch M/C Line Procedure
Step 1 Remove the
window washer reservoir.
a) Remove two #10 nuts
Disconnect two electrical connectors
c) Disconnect the solution
d) Set the reservoir aside
Step 2 Disconnect the M/C
line from the master cylinder.
a) Remove the cotter key from the
fitting at the end of the M/C. This key goes through a 1/8� roll pin that
must be removed.
b) Place a sharp pointed awl into the outboard end of
the roll pin and with a small hammer, drive out the roll pin. If it is
tight, you might have to place a block of wood between the master cylinder
and the steering column shaft to prevent movement of the master cylinder
while you drive out the roll pin.
c) Place a clamp in the line
that goes from the reservoir to the M/C to pinch off fluid leakage.
Now remove the fitting from the end of the M/C by pulling gently forward.
Cap off the end of the M/C to prevent drainage.
Step 3 Remove the
line from under the car.
a) Using the forward left side jack location,
jack up the car high enough to allow you to crawl under and work.
From under the car, locate the quick disconnect fitting and M/C line. The
quick disconnect is a brass colored cylinder about 1� in diameter and 1.5�
c) Pull the disconnected line and quick disconnect downward
so that the quick disconnect and line is exposed below the floor and the
exhaust pipe. You may have to jocky the line around some wiring to get it
d) You can now separate the quick disconnect fitting. Do not
twist the fitting. There is a white plastic sleeve on the forward end of
the fitting. Using a straight blade screw driver, gently push the plastic
sleeve into the outer shell of the fitting. You must push this a bit at a
time from all around the fitting. This will release the inner finger tabs
that hold the fitting together. When you have the plastic sleeve shoved
as far in as you can (very little will be showing) you can tug the fitting
apart. Both ends of the fitting are self sealing so no leakage should
occur and the slave end of the line will retain its prime.
You now have removed the forward half of the line that needs to be
replaced with the modified line.
Step 4 Replace the line with the
a) Fill the modified line with Dot 3 brake fluid (or
what ever fluid is in your system) using the following procedure.
Hold the new line in a vice with the 90 degree fitting pointing
c) Attach a 12� section of fuel line hose over the 90 degree
inlet fitting to form a tight seal and then fill it with fluid. This
forms a vertical column of fluid that will fill the line in the next
d) Using a wood match stick or something similar, push in on
the plastic diaphram at the end of the quick disconnect fitting. This
will let the fluid in the column of hose gravity fill the new M/C line.
This process is a quick jabbing motion because as soon as you break the
vacuum, the fluid will flow very fast.
Step 5 Install the new
M/C line starting at the master cylinder.
a) From the top, feed the new
line, quick disconnect first, down toward the mating end of the
b) Insert the 90 degree fitting (make sure that the �O� ring
is in place first) into the end of the M/C.
c) Insert the roll
pin back into position to retain the line.
d) Insert the cotter
key through the roll pin and bend the ends.
Step 6 Move to under
the car to make to final connection.
a) Re-route the line back
around the wiring and in position near the mating end of the quick
b) Push the two ends of the quick disconnect line
back together completing the installation.
Step 7 Lower the
car off the jack/jack stands.
Step 8 Replace the windshield
washer reservoir including the two electrical connectors and hose.
Re-install the two #10 nuts the hold it in place.
Step 9 Master
cylinder clean and re-fill
a) Remove the clamp from the transfer
b) Remove the cap from the reservoir.
c) Remove the
rubber bowl seal.
d) Using a clean rag, dip it into the old fluid and
squeeze it out into a waste container, being careful not to drip any fluid
on the car. Repeat this until the reservoir is empty.
e) Clean out
all the old gunk with a clean dry rag.
f) Replace the fluid with new
up to the fill line.
g) Replace the bowl seal.
Step 10 Put the transmission in neutral.
Push in the clutch a few times. It may be soft at first, but cycle it in
and out a few times until it comes up to the normal position.
12 Start the car (in neutral)
Step 13 push the clutch in and try
shifting into any gear. If it goes into gear okay, take it for a ride.
After a few miles of shifting up and down through the gears, the clutch
operation should return to normal.
Step 14 When you are happy with
its operation, try some power shifts. You will notice a much firmer
engagement. Enjoy your new found capability.