Slalom4me

Is there sufficient meat in the water pump boss where
the tubes for the heater hoses are to remove the tubes
and tap for pipe thread?

Alternatively, do any versions of the pump have tube
fittings that point up and forward instead of to the
passenger outboard side?

Thanks,
Ken R.



Photo credit - CHarris85Vette

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kpforce1

someone is doing an LS1 swap... in a C4 maybe? I'd like to know this as well for my swap

Slalom4me

Yes, I was thinking of CHarris85Vette and you while I was working on
another plumbing project. I got some ideas, came back and started
looking at his pictures of the WP.

While he has solved the immediate matter of creating a hook-up, I
know we all would like to revisit this when time permits.

In the image here, the upper part of the boss simply looks too thin
to take a thread. The bottom looks so, so. I've had three or four
ideas about how to tackle the matter. Wouldn't it be nice if GM
has already rearranged the fittings for another application like, say,
the CTS-V. Failing that, some swapping, fabrication or even machine
work could solve the issue.

I've got a question for you on an item related to the same adventure.
Watch for your new thread in C4 Tech - coming soon.

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Slalom4me

Comments anyone?

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kpforce1

bump

kpforce1

Does anyone have a crap pump that "we" could experiment with?

SteveDoten

ck out Katech for the different tstat housings, this should get the hose pointed in the right direction

the pumps aren't cheap, next time I get a spent pump I ck out the how much casting is there

tiojames

How about heliarcing the piece in. I did it with a Summit radiator I adapted to my Trans-am. You can buy an aluninum bung with the female pipe size threads you need and have it heliarced at any welding shop. It cost me $15 to have the bung welded into the radiator which is thinner than the waterpump housing.

Slalom4me

Another image of the present situation





connecticut. Thank you for the tip about Katech's straight
neck thermostat housing. I think this would provide the
bottom hose with less interference at the frame horn.

tiojames. Welding aluminum bungs would work. I think they
perhaps have a larger OD than the width of the WP casting
at the top tube, but it would be a simple matter to fill in
with weld around the back side.



BTW - Your suggestion led me to think about whether Earl's
90º fittings with tube sections could be welded in place.
Either modify something like this or build (bend & flare)
from scratch and then weld into place.



Wait a minute. Instead of bungs or tubing, why not just weld
aluminum AN fittings to the pump?? If someone took a 45º
cut off the heater hose boss so the fittings could angle upward,
so much the better. Earl's offers 'Male Weld Fittings - AN Thread'
from -4 to -24.

Another idea (that I've just discarded) was to use rectangular
bar stock to make a block that bolts onto the heater hose boss.
The block would create a 90º change in direction with inlets on
one face that intersect with tapped outlets on an adjoining face.
It would bolt to the water pump (after removing the OEM tubes)
with a gasket or o-rings for sealing.

Welding bungs or tubes with fittings are all probably simpler
approaches.

Thanks again for the help !!
Ken R.

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0Randy@DRM

Pull out the steel tubes and drill-tapped to the next size up NPT. We just did one on our WC car. It worked prefect.

Randy

Slalom4me

Even better !

Thanks, Randy.

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Cory@LS2PortWorks

Those are some good ideas guys!

I've got another waterpump back in the storage room that I'll eventually get around to modding in some way

The thermostat housing really isn't a problem in the C4... it JUST clears everything with room to shake. but that straight fitting is very nice looking!