Originally Posted by 03WhiteConv

Thanks,

This procedure was my next step, I was just hoping to not tear it all out again...Much appreciated, I'll post the results.

Originally Posted by markcz

C5 Radio Schematics (click HERE for C6)
Click on the link, then right click/save as to copy it to your computer.

Vert Power Antenna

Coupe Antenna Module

BOSE prints

Radio Schematics 1/4 Radio, Power, Changer

Radio Schematics 2/4 RAP Controlled 12v Switched Power Locations

Radio Schematics 3/4 Bose Signal Processor

Radio Schematics 4/4 Speakers

Base NON-BOSE prints

Radio/Power

Speakers

R.A.P. (Good Luck!)

C5 Retained Accessory Power (1 of 2)

C5 Retained Accessory Power (2 of 2)



Plug Pin-Outs:

Radio Plugs (1 of 6) Bose Signal Processor

Radio Plugs (2 of 6) Bose Signal Processor (cont), Coupe Antenna Module

Radio Plugs (3 of 6) Radio C1 & C2

Radio Plugs (4 of 6) Radio C3 & C4, Vert Antenna Module (NOTE: If you have a pink wire instead of dark green, verify voltage before using it for anything. It may only be 5v.)

Radio Plugs (5 of 6) Changer, Left Speakers

Radio Plugs (6 of 6) Right Speakers


Wire Size Conversions
The GM schematics show wire sizes in the metric units of square mm, since we use AWG gauge sizes....

mm2 = AWG Size
0.22 = 24
0.35 = 22
0.5 = 20
0.8 = 18
1.0 = 16
2.0 = 14
3.0 = 12
5.0 = 10
8.0 = 8
13.0 = 6
19.0 = 4
32.0 = 2
50.0 = 1/0

....and a few more links that may help:

Basic Car Audio Electronics --- This site starts out explaining electrons, voltage, current, etc... and takes you all the way through building your own crossovers and enclosures.

AOEM kits for adding an amp to your stock radio.

ROEM kits for keeping the amps but changing the HU.


Keeping your aftermarket amp or HU powered with Retained Accessory Power (RAP)

This will allow your aftermarket amps to stay on after you turn off the car, just like the stock radio does.

If you still have the stock HU installed you can tap into the RAP circuit under the IP fuse box. If you have an aftermarket HU you'll need to buy either an Accessory Valet or SoundGate GMACC or Peripheral Electronics GMRAP, or wire up some relays using this schematic.

RAP for an amp WITH the stock HU still installed:
Pull up the fuse box (two or three screws and a plastic clip), on the grey connector (C2) pins E10 and F10 (both orange, I used F10 since it was on the bottom row and easier to get at) supply 12V RAP power to the stock radio amps. Even if you have a new amp installed, the radio will still be telling RAP to stay energized. Use something like this to supply an automotive relay that you can connect to your "remote" wire on the amp.

Using this diagram as a guide:
-run the C2/F10 wire tap to pin 86
-connect pin 85 to a ground
-tap into your +12V source going to the amp and connect it to pin 87
-connect your "remote trigger" amp wire to pin 30

The amp will be powered through the wire you're using now, but it will be triggered from the relay which is pulled in whenever the radio is on (even after the car is turned off and Retained Accessory Power is still on).


Trouble getting your stock head unit to recognize GM10-Aux?

Sometimes if you loose power to the radio (dead/disconnected battery), or unplug the GM10-Aux converter, your stock head unit may not want to go to or stay on "Disc 1 Track 1" like it should. After getting some advice from other forum members I put thogther this little procedure that has worked for me every time so far:

-unplug GM10-Aux from Cor-Har changer cable
-let it sit overnight (a few hours at least)
-with car still off, plug in GM10-Aux
-let it sit for at least 10 minutes
-turn on car & radio, select changer on radio
-if it works (Disc 1 Track 1) you're done
-if it doesn't work, leave car running but turn off radio
-unplug GM10-Aux, then reconnect it
-turn on radio, it should work


Adding an additional Aux Input if you already have a CD Changer

There is a link above to a .pdf that shows how to tap into your existing CD Changer wires in order to add an additional aux audio input. That link hasn't been working lately, so click here to view that .pdf as a .jpg (of course, that assumes that 'My Corvette Photos' is working )

FYI: If you use the C2/F10 RAP powered wire from my spiel above to pull in the relay, then you won't have to worry about turning off the switch when you get out of the car in order to prevent a drain on your battery.


A POSSIBLE fix to bad radio reception with an AFTERMARKET HU in a coupe

The coupe uses an amplified module to combine the windshield and hatch antenna leads before they connect to the HU. That module is powered by both 12V and 5V from the stock HU, the 12V is constant and the 5V is only present when the radio is playing. Aftermarket radios only supply the module with the 12V signal, click here and scroll down to post #4 to see how you can once again power your antenna module amplifier.

DIY Sub Box plans for CENTER TUB in C5

CLICK HERE for pdf

Originally Posted by mpushkal

I took out my changer. Can I just tap from the factory cd changer plug to install an RCA or ⅛ input?

Originally Posted by markcz

Not if you took out the changer

Instructions for aux in mod are in the text you quoted, but the changer needs to be installed and running for that to work. You'd be running the changer, but cutting the wires that feed the changer audio to the radio to send in your aux input source instead. If you remove the changer the radio won't 'play' it, so you can't send the audio in on those wires.

Originally Posted by captaingeek

There should be a way to hack the parts needed for the audio input and get rid of the disc changer. Let's face it those things are worthless at this point.

Originally Posted by markcz

Buy a GM10-Aux

Originally Posted by captaingeek

Whats with the relay and the toggle switch? is that required? I don't want to have to make sure to hit some switch every time I get out of the car.

Whats the C2/F10 RAP?

Originally Posted by captaingeek

Looking at this diagram, could I theoretically cut the audio cable leaving the shield intact and wire in a audio cable?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...aux_in_mod.jpg

Originally Posted by captaingeek

Is there a thread for "C5 Stock Stereo Removal"?

Originally Posted by captaingeek

Does the changer need to be plugged in for this to work?

Originally Posted by captaingeek

My disk changer seems to be busted. Detects that it's there and try to move the disk around but eventually just says err.

Originally Posted by markcz

Start with the ROEM kit to keep stock speakers, then you can add things as you want to

The rear speakers and the 3.5" in the doors are normal 4ohm speakers that are powered by the radio internal amp after the signal gets modified by the bose processor.

The door subs are fed a line-level signal by the Bose processor that they amplify with their attached amps.