C6 Vert Upgrade - opinions, please
08-11-2005, 10:39 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
C6 Vert Upgrade - opinions, please
Please help. I'm thinking of modifying the stereo with the components below. I have the 1SB with Nav, so I'd like to keep the head unit. The problems are that I have a convertible, so space is limited. Also, the outputs from the head unit are so screwed up, it doesn't seem simple.
Here is what I'd like to do:
1. Leave the 10" self amplified door speakers in place.
2. Replace the 3.5" door speakers with something by Polk or Infinity
3. Replace the 5.25" rear speakers, behind the seats, with something by Polk or Infinity. Here is the tricky part: the speakers are bridged mono, for some unclear reason, so I'd have to change the inputs and reamplify them. Also, if there is room, I'd like to cut the hole bigger and change them to 6.5" speakers.
4. Add a sub; possible a self-powered Infinity Basslink or Bazooka tube. Even better, a JL Stealthbox, but they haven't yet produced one for the C6, and I'm sure it'll be pretty expensive when they do.
Questions:
1. Do you think this setup will work? Are the Polk / Infinitys good choices? I figure they must be pretty good, without breaking the bank.
2. If I remove the Bose 3 channel amp that powers the 2 door speakers and is bridged mono to the two rear speakers and replace it with a 4 channel amp, I'll lose my fader. Will I be able to adjust the output so I can preset the volume of the fronts and backs in relations to each other?
3. Is the signal going in to that 3 channel amp full range? If so, can I use it for the sub as well? Or should I break out of the door thumpers for that?
Thanks for your help!
Here is what I'd like to do:
1. Leave the 10" self amplified door speakers in place.
2. Replace the 3.5" door speakers with something by Polk or Infinity
3. Replace the 5.25" rear speakers, behind the seats, with something by Polk or Infinity. Here is the tricky part: the speakers are bridged mono, for some unclear reason, so I'd have to change the inputs and reamplify them. Also, if there is room, I'd like to cut the hole bigger and change them to 6.5" speakers.
4. Add a sub; possible a self-powered Infinity Basslink or Bazooka tube. Even better, a JL Stealthbox, but they haven't yet produced one for the C6, and I'm sure it'll be pretty expensive when they do.
Questions:
1. Do you think this setup will work? Are the Polk / Infinitys good choices? I figure they must be pretty good, without breaking the bank.
2. If I remove the Bose 3 channel amp that powers the 2 door speakers and is bridged mono to the two rear speakers and replace it with a 4 channel amp, I'll lose my fader. Will I be able to adjust the output so I can preset the volume of the fronts and backs in relations to each other?
3. Is the signal going in to that 3 channel amp full range? If so, can I use it for the sub as well? Or should I break out of the door thumpers for that?
Thanks for your help!
08-12-2005, 01:41 AM
#2
Originally Posted by cmb13
Please help. I'm thinking of modifying the stereo with the components below. I have the 1SB with Nav, so I'd like to keep the head unit. The problems are that I have a convertible, so space is limited. Also, the outputs from the head unit are so screwed up, it doesn't seem simple.
Here is what I'd like to do:
1. Leave the 10" self amplified door speakers in place.
2. Replace the 3.5" door speakers with something by Polk or Infinity
3. Replace the 5.25" rear speakers, behind the seats, with something by Polk or Infinity. Here is the tricky part: the speakers are bridged mono, for some unclear reason, so I'd have to change the inputs and reamplify them. Also, if there is room, I'd like to cut the hole bigger and change them to 6.5" speakers.
4. Add a sub; possible a self-powered Infinity Basslink or Bazooka tube. Even better, a JL Stealthbox, but they haven't yet produced one for the C6, and I'm sure it'll be pretty expensive when they do.
Questions:
1. Do you think this setup will work? Are the Polk / Infinitys good choices? I figure they must be pretty good, without breaking the bank.
2. If I remove the Bose 3 channel amp that powers the 2 door speakers and is bridged mono to the two rear speakers and replace it with a 4 channel amp, I'll lose my fader. Will I be able to adjust the output so I can preset the volume of the fronts and backs in relations to each other?
3. Is the signal going in to that 3 channel amp full range? If so, can I use it for the sub as well? Or should I break out of the door thumpers for that?
Thanks for your help!
Here is what I'd like to do:
1. Leave the 10" self amplified door speakers in place.
2. Replace the 3.5" door speakers with something by Polk or Infinity
3. Replace the 5.25" rear speakers, behind the seats, with something by Polk or Infinity. Here is the tricky part: the speakers are bridged mono, for some unclear reason, so I'd have to change the inputs and reamplify them. Also, if there is room, I'd like to cut the hole bigger and change them to 6.5" speakers.
4. Add a sub; possible a self-powered Infinity Basslink or Bazooka tube. Even better, a JL Stealthbox, but they haven't yet produced one for the C6, and I'm sure it'll be pretty expensive when they do.
Questions:
1. Do you think this setup will work? Are the Polk / Infinitys good choices? I figure they must be pretty good, without breaking the bank.
2. If I remove the Bose 3 channel amp that powers the 2 door speakers and is bridged mono to the two rear speakers and replace it with a 4 channel amp, I'll lose my fader. Will I be able to adjust the output so I can preset the volume of the fronts and backs in relations to each other?
3. Is the signal going in to that 3 channel amp full range? If so, can I use it for the sub as well? Or should I break out of the door thumpers for that?
Thanks for your help!
Why would you think you'll lose the ability to fade front to rear if you replace the Bose amp with a 4 ch amp? The Nav HU has 4 outputs, FL, FR, RL, RR, the fading is done in the HU. If you scrap the Bose amp (highly recommended), then you'll have the 4 separate low level signals (2 volts into 10k ohms) on the 24 pin plug to drive the new 4 ch amp. The only speaker wiring you'll have to do is for your rear speakers so they'll be hooked up for stereo instead of mono.
Now the stock door thumpers are driven by a low level signal (got their own built in amps), but that low level signal comes out of the Bose amp after being filtered, ie the crossover is in the amp you're going to remove. So you're going to have to supply a crossover.
You can do that, but frankly you're still going to have a hole in the spectrum between where the thumpers cut off and where the itty bitty 3.5s pick up. You're also going to have to supply the thumper amps with switched power, which originally came from the Bose amp you're removing. PITA.
The "amps" for the thumpers are really bad anyway, they're crude switching amps. and you won't get *musical* bass notes from the thumpers. That's why you'd need to add a sub anyhow. So why not just go ahead and replace the 10s in the doors with some decent midrange speakers in the 6 to 8 inch range (make a sound board to mount them), cross them over correctly with the 3.5s, then add a sub with its own amp to pick up the low bass?
After futzing around for months trying to make the system sound right with the stock 10s, that's what I wound up doing.
One more note. Don't try to reconnect the center dash speaker. That's the main thing screwing up the stereo soundstage. Leave it disconnected.
08-12-2005, 11:03 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by shopdog
I used Eclipse speakers, but Polk and Infinity make good speakers too. Just make sure the power ratings match the amp you use. The stock system is 23 watts per channel, so if you keep the amp, or replace it with one of similar power, you need speakers designed for about 25 watts, less and they'll distort or blow, more and they won't be driven hard enough to give you the volume you need. The stockers are 4 ohms, so standard impedance speakers are fine. Of course if you opt for a higher power amp, then size the speakers accordingly.
Why would you think you'll lose the ability to fade front to rear if you replace the Bose amp with a 4 ch amp? The Nav HU has 4 outputs, FL, FR, RL, RR, the fading is done in the HU. If you scrap the Bose amp (highly recommended), then you'll have the 4 separate low level signals (2 volts into 10k ohms) on the 24 pin plug to drive the new 4 ch amp. The only speaker wiring you'll have to do is for your rear speakers so they'll be hooked up for stereo instead of mono.
Now the stock door thumpers are driven by a low level signal (got their own built in amps), but that low level signal comes out of the Bose amp after being filtered, ie the crossover is in the amp you're going to remove. So you're going to have to supply a crossover.
You can do that, but frankly you're still going to have a hole in the spectrum between where the thumpers cut off and where the itty bitty 3.5s pick up. You're also going to have to supply the thumper amps with switched power, which originally came from the Bose amp you're removing. PITA.
The "amps" for the thumpers are really bad anyway, they're crude switching amps. and you won't get *musical* bass notes from the thumpers. That's why you'd need to add a sub anyhow. So why not just go ahead and replace the 10s in the doors with some decent midrange speakers in the 6 to 8 inch range (make a sound board to mount them), cross them over correctly with the 3.5s, then add a sub with its own amp to pick up the low bass?
After futzing around for months trying to make the system sound right with the stock 10s, that's what I wound up doing.
One more note. Don't try to reconnect the center dash speaker. That's the main thing screwing up the stereo soundstage. Leave it disconnected.
Why would you think you'll lose the ability to fade front to rear if you replace the Bose amp with a 4 ch amp? The Nav HU has 4 outputs, FL, FR, RL, RR, the fading is done in the HU. If you scrap the Bose amp (highly recommended), then you'll have the 4 separate low level signals (2 volts into 10k ohms) on the 24 pin plug to drive the new 4 ch amp. The only speaker wiring you'll have to do is for your rear speakers so they'll be hooked up for stereo instead of mono.
Now the stock door thumpers are driven by a low level signal (got their own built in amps), but that low level signal comes out of the Bose amp after being filtered, ie the crossover is in the amp you're going to remove. So you're going to have to supply a crossover.
You can do that, but frankly you're still going to have a hole in the spectrum between where the thumpers cut off and where the itty bitty 3.5s pick up. You're also going to have to supply the thumper amps with switched power, which originally came from the Bose amp you're removing. PITA.
The "amps" for the thumpers are really bad anyway, they're crude switching amps. and you won't get *musical* bass notes from the thumpers. That's why you'd need to add a sub anyhow. So why not just go ahead and replace the 10s in the doors with some decent midrange speakers in the 6 to 8 inch range (make a sound board to mount them), cross them over correctly with the 3.5s, then add a sub with its own amp to pick up the low bass?
After futzing around for months trying to make the system sound right with the stock 10s, that's what I wound up doing.
One more note. Don't try to reconnect the center dash speaker. That's the main thing screwing up the stereo soundstage. Leave it disconnected.
1. Most importantly. You said the 24 pin plug going in to the bose has FL, FR, RL, and RR. Is that a full spectrum signal, with lows, mids and highs? If so, I can use this to supply signal to all speakers, including the subs, right?
2. If I change the door 10's, and put in 6.5s, can I use two channels of the 4 channel amp to supply all 4 door speakers? Where would the crossover lie? If I can, I would use the other two channels to supply the new rear speakers.
3. Do I need a crossover for the sub, or if I use a self powered sub, wouldn't it have it's own built in crossover? What kind of sub did you use? Self-powered? I want a self powered mainly for space, as this is going into a convertible and it seems to be easier to mount one in the small trunk (eg bazooka tube or infinity basslink).
Thanks again!
08-12-2005, 12:20 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2005
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Shopdog knows his stuff and has helped me out quite a bit.
Blaupunk makes a super thin subwoofer that sound great in the doors the C6. They are 3in thick and are designed as if there are two cones facing each other. The easiest way to tap the signals is to get a PAC GM OEM 1 and cut off the line level adaptor. There are four pair of wires going into the line level adaptor and all are HiFi. Two pair of good quality speakers and you will have great sound. Replace the subs the doors and a new amp for them and now we are talking!
Blaupunk makes a super thin subwoofer that sound great in the doors the C6. They are 3in thick and are designed as if there are two cones facing each other. The easiest way to tap the signals is to get a PAC GM OEM 1 and cut off the line level adaptor. There are four pair of wires going into the line level adaptor and all are HiFi. Two pair of good quality speakers and you will have great sound. Replace the subs the doors and a new amp for them and now we are talking!
Last edited by Steve Germany; 09-18-2005 at 06:01 AM.
08-12-2005, 01:55 PM
#5
Originally Posted by cmb13
Ok. Sorry for so many questions, but I have just a few more.
1. Most importantly. You said the 24 pin plug going in to the bose has FL, FR, RL, and RR. Is that a full spectrum signal, with lows, mids and highs? If so, I can use this to supply signal to all speakers, including the subs, right?
1. Most importantly. You said the 24 pin plug going in to the bose has FL, FR, RL, and RR. Is that a full spectrum signal, with lows, mids and highs? If so, I can use this to supply signal to all speakers, including the subs, right?
2. If I change the door 10's, and put in 6.5s, can I use two channels of the 4 channel amp to supply all 4 door speakers? Where would the crossover lie? If I can, I would use the other two channels to supply the new rear speakers.
3. Do I need a crossover for the sub, or if I use a self powered sub, wouldn't it have it's own built in crossover? What kind of sub did you use? Self-powered? I want a self powered mainly for space, as this is going into a convertible and it seems to be easier to mount one in the small trunk (eg bazooka tube or infinity basslink).
09-11-2005, 08:54 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Chad Abell
I replaced my whole entire system and I have vert as well, I went over the top but I would do it all over again.