Diff between JL 10w3 & 10w6 subs?
12-17-2007, 10:00 AM
#1
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Diff between JL 10w3 & 10w6 subs?
What is the diff between the two?
Required power?
And will they both fit & work in the JL Stealthbox?
Curious..
Thanks..
Required power?
And will they both fit & work in the JL Stealthbox?
Curious..
Thanks..
12-17-2007, 10:36 AM
#2
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St. Jude Donor '08
the W6 (when properly powered) has a significantly more powerful (beefy) sound. If i recall correctly they will fit in a flush mount box but not the stealth mount box (not enough mounting depth) The w3 series provides a low frequency filler, but doesn't hit nearly as hard.
The w6v2 has a reccomended power rating of ~400W
The w6v3 has a reccomended power rating of ~300W
I have the 12w6v2 paired with a JL500/1 and I LOVE it. Super clean bass with lots of SPL when you want it. (my setup reached 132 in test tones)
Your choice should be based on how much "kick" you want and the size of your budget. IMO unless you play it loud a lot, A 10w3v3 with a 250/1 will be an excellent choice.
The w6v2 has a reccomended power rating of ~400W
The w6v3 has a reccomended power rating of ~300W
I have the 12w6v2 paired with a JL500/1 and I LOVE it. Super clean bass with lots of SPL when you want it. (my setup reached 132 in test tones)
Your choice should be based on how much "kick" you want and the size of your budget. IMO unless you play it loud a lot, A 10w3v3 with a 250/1 will be an excellent choice.
12-17-2007, 12:01 PM
#3
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The W6 has higher power-handling than the W3.
The W6 has a better cooling system around the motor which means less power compression at high volume (this is the most important difference).
The W6 is very slightly less-efficient than the W3.
Their predicted responses are very similar when compared in the same enclosures. If one works well in a certain enclosure, the other will sound almost exactly the same until you get to higher volumes.
You need a big amp to take advantage of the strong points of the W6.
The W6 has a better cooling system around the motor which means less power compression at high volume (this is the most important difference).
The W6 is very slightly less-efficient than the W3.
Their predicted responses are very similar when compared in the same enclosures. If one works well in a certain enclosure, the other will sound almost exactly the same until you get to higher volumes.
You need a big amp to take advantage of the strong points of the W6.
12-17-2007, 05:51 PM
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12-17-2007, 07:19 PM
#6
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As you apply more power to a driver, the voice-coil and magnet heat up. The coil increases in resistance, causing the amplifier to lose power. As magnets heat up, they lose flux density, especially at the extremes of excursion. When that happens, the magnet can't force the voice-coil to move as far as it could when the magnet was cooler. The resulting loss of efficiency combined with higher resistance is equated to a decibel value. For example, at 600 watts, a driver may suffer 4.7 dB of power compression.
Power compression is sometimes regarded as a sort of 'dirty little secret' in the speaker community. It's difficult to test in a DIY environment. ALL loudspeaker drivers, particularly subwoofers (and even MORE particularly high-xmax low-efficiency small-box subs), suffer from power compression. Voice-coil and magnet (together form the 'motor') cooling keeps this decibel rating minimized.
There are a ton of implications when you start to think about how this works, especially in car audio where heat and small boxes are unavoidable.
12-17-2007, 09:05 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08
That makes sense. Essentially running electricity through any material releases heat (depending on the resistance of the conductor) Heat causes magnets to loose strength. Therefore any kind of cooling or venting would increase the effeciency of a speaker.
12-19-2007, 06:57 AM
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It was my own assertion based on a long history working with loudspeakers. Looking more closely at their website, it's their assertion as well. Read the W6 overview for JL details.
As you apply more power to a driver, the voice-coil and magnet heat up. The coil increases in resistance, causing the amplifier to lose power. As magnets heat up, they lose flux density, especially at the extremes of excursion. When that happens, the magnet can't force the voice-coil to move as far as it could when the magnet was cooler. The resulting loss of efficiency combined with higher resistance is equated to a decibel value. For example, at 600 watts, a driver may suffer 4.7 dB of power compression.
Power compression is sometimes regarded as a sort of 'dirty little secret' in the speaker community. It's difficult to test in a DIY environment. ALL loudspeaker drivers, particularly subwoofers (and even MORE particularly high-xmax low-efficiency small-box subs), suffer from power compression. Voice-coil and magnet (together form the 'motor') cooling keeps this decibel rating minimized.
There are a ton of implications when you start to think about how this works, especially in car audio where heat and small boxes are unavoidable.
As you apply more power to a driver, the voice-coil and magnet heat up. The coil increases in resistance, causing the amplifier to lose power. As magnets heat up, they lose flux density, especially at the extremes of excursion. When that happens, the magnet can't force the voice-coil to move as far as it could when the magnet was cooler. The resulting loss of efficiency combined with higher resistance is equated to a decibel value. For example, at 600 watts, a driver may suffer 4.7 dB of power compression.
Power compression is sometimes regarded as a sort of 'dirty little secret' in the speaker community. It's difficult to test in a DIY environment. ALL loudspeaker drivers, particularly subwoofers (and even MORE particularly high-xmax low-efficiency small-box subs), suffer from power compression. Voice-coil and magnet (together form the 'motor') cooling keeps this decibel rating minimized.
There are a ton of implications when you start to think about how this works, especially in car audio where heat and small boxes are unavoidable.
12-19-2007, 07:20 AM
#10
Drifting
FYI - The 10w6v2 will fit in a stealth enclosure and allow the center compartment cover to be installed.
I don't know if it will fit in a JL stealthbox, but it will fit in a NVTHIS stealthbox.
I don't know if it will fit in a JL stealthbox, but it will fit in a NVTHIS stealthbox.
01-21-2008, 12:14 PM
#12
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I have a 10w3v3 in a stealth box I built myself. It fits, but I had to do a little extra sanding inside the box to get it to fit just right. The ones NVTHIS builds probably work with no modification if you let him know what sub your putting in.
