[C6] How To make the Line Level/RCA Adapter Harness
#63
Racer
Member Since: Jul 2011
Location: Grand Rapids MI
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So...the question I still have. Is why did the full pac solution not work? Did it really effect the audio quality? I read the first post of course. I'm just surprised a product would cause audio issues that I would have figured was tested
#64
Tech Contributor
The unmolested signal coming out of the HU is a flat, full-frequency, line-level signal that is PERFECT for amp inputs.
The PAC box works fine as an adapter, it just screws up the one thing that GM got right with the stock radio.
The PAC box works fine as an adapter, it just screws up the one thing that GM got right with the stock radio.
#65
If you leave the rear speakers connected will the rear speaker and the sub, now be running on to 2 ohms instead of 4ohms?
#66
Tech Contributor
The full spectrum bass signal is not present at the rear speakers in C6, if you use stock rear speaker-level signal to supply a sub amp it will be very weak.
If it is connected that way anyway, load on amp will depend on what the sub amp you have is doing with the input. I don't recall ever seeing a written ohm rating for speaker-level inputs to an amp, but I also don't recall ever hearing about blowing an amp due to using speaker-level outputs to supply another amps speaker-level inputs
If it is connected that way anyway, load on amp will depend on what the sub amp you have is doing with the input. I don't recall ever seeing a written ohm rating for speaker-level inputs to an amp, but I also don't recall ever hearing about blowing an amp due to using speaker-level outputs to supply another amps speaker-level inputs
#68
Tech Contributor
#69
Drifting
#70
Tech Contributor
The pins on the big 24 pin plug that connects to the radio are labeled. One row is A1-12 and the other is B1-12. The wire at B3 is the stock amp trigger. It is the same for Bose or non.
If you make the adapter, splice into the new wire. If you're using the stock plug, it's the white wire.
#72
negative, ground, earth, chassis/case, return, Lo (as opposed to Hi) are all terms that have essentially the same meaning in electronics. The individual terms may be used to better describe the actual function of the connection in relation to the circuit, but they can usually be connected to the same point (ground or splice) with no detrimental effects except in extremely sensitive circuits or extreme noise to signal level relation. I will probably think of a few more terms when I am actually awake.
#73
Would anyone be able to upload the images in the original post again or at least a picture of how yours turned out? I realize this is a very old thread but the info is still relevant and just what I was looking for!
Thanks
Thanks
#74
Tech Contributor
#78
Team Owner
One of the things I discovered early in the process of working with the C6 stereo systems is that there is line level signal available in the factory harness in ALL of the systems, Delco and Bose and including NAV. This is true of ALL of the model years of C6 through 08 and I expect that it may continue throughout the generation, though that is speculation on my part.
This harness you create will become a "Y" adapter, with one side of the Y being the factory connector and the other being RCA outputs to hook to an aftermarket amplifier to drive a full system or even just a subwoofer. This is the BEST way, hands down to get this done. You do NOT need a Cleansweep and using the full PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter adds cost and worse, adds an ugly EQ curve that rolls off bass that will hurt the end result of your efforts.
So, enough pre-amble, here's now to make it...
Parts you need:
PAC ADD-GM24
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+ADD-GM24.html
RCA Jack Red Plastic Part Number 090-266
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-266
RCA Jack Black Plastic Part Number 090-265
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=090-265
These are recommended vendors and parts, you can use any female solder-on RCA's you care to use, Radio Shack has them as well. The ADD-GM24 is the only part that is not optional, and though you may find it elsewhere the easiest place I have found to get it is Sonic Electronix.
You start by cutting off the connector that is intended to plug into the evil OEM-1 box that induces the aforementioned nasty EQ curve. These are the wires you will solder on to the female RCA's. Here's what it looks like:
Solder on the connectors using this table of wire colors:
Left Front + White
Left Front - White/Black
Left Rear + Green
Left Rear - Green/Black
Right Front + Gray
Right Front - Gray/Black
Right Rear + Purple
Right Rear - Purple/Black
The RCA connectors will have a small lead in the center of the plug which is the positive(+) lead. The longer connector is the negative/common(-) lead. Be patient here, and you may want to buy a few extra connectors cause the leads are close together and it's easy to get sloppy and have to start over. The key is to make sure that the leads & wires of each connector do not make contact with one another, if they do the connection will not work. Also, make sure you slide the screw-on cover over the wire BEFORE you solder on the connector!!!
When you're finished your harness should look something like this:
I hope this thread answers some questions and makes clear what you need to do in order to get the best possible output to feed an aftermarket amp while keeping the factory head.
This harness you create will become a "Y" adapter, with one side of the Y being the factory connector and the other being RCA outputs to hook to an aftermarket amplifier to drive a full system or even just a subwoofer. This is the BEST way, hands down to get this done. You do NOT need a Cleansweep and using the full PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter adds cost and worse, adds an ugly EQ curve that rolls off bass that will hurt the end result of your efforts.
So, enough pre-amble, here's now to make it...
Parts you need:
PAC ADD-GM24
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+ADD-GM24.html
RCA Jack Red Plastic Part Number 090-266
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-266
RCA Jack Black Plastic Part Number 090-265
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=090-265
These are recommended vendors and parts, you can use any female solder-on RCA's you care to use, Radio Shack has them as well. The ADD-GM24 is the only part that is not optional, and though you may find it elsewhere the easiest place I have found to get it is Sonic Electronix.
You start by cutting off the connector that is intended to plug into the evil OEM-1 box that induces the aforementioned nasty EQ curve. These are the wires you will solder on to the female RCA's. Here's what it looks like:
Solder on the connectors using this table of wire colors:
Left Front + White
Left Front - White/Black
Left Rear + Green
Left Rear - Green/Black
Right Front + Gray
Right Front - Gray/Black
Right Rear + Purple
Right Rear - Purple/Black
The RCA connectors will have a small lead in the center of the plug which is the positive(+) lead. The longer connector is the negative/common(-) lead. Be patient here, and you may want to buy a few extra connectors cause the leads are close together and it's easy to get sloppy and have to start over. The key is to make sure that the leads & wires of each connector do not make contact with one another, if they do the connection will not work. Also, make sure you slide the screw-on cover over the wire BEFORE you solder on the connector!!!
When you're finished your harness should look something like this:
I hope this thread answers some questions and makes clear what you need to do in order to get the best possible output to feed an aftermarket amp while keeping the factory head.
If you do that would be great and really appreciated as I need to make this set-up for my '09 factory NAV/XM Bose HU
Thanks,Matt
#79
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Hey guys.. sorry these images have gone offline, I don't really use that site any more and I made some server changes and forgot all about those links. I'll try to get that site moved and online soon. Worst case I'll dig up the pics and post them.
My track day hobby killed my car stereo hobby and I'm way out of touch these days on equipment. The wiring, system design etc all applies all the way through the C6 generation but the modules recommended are likely all out of date and unavailable. Tapping into the wires is probably the best bet these days.
Anyway, I'll try to get those pics up & running!
My track day hobby killed my car stereo hobby and I'm way out of touch these days on equipment. The wiring, system design etc all applies all the way through the C6 generation but the modules recommended are likely all out of date and unavailable. Tapping into the wires is probably the best bet these days.
Anyway, I'll try to get those pics up & running!
#80
Team Owner
Hey guys.. sorry these images have gone offline, I don't really use that site any more and I made some server changes and forgot all about those links. I'll try to get that site moved and online soon. Worst case I'll dig up the pics and post them.
My track day hobby killed my car stereo hobby and I'm way out of touch these days on equipment. The wiring, system design etc all applies all the way through the C6 generation but the modules recommended are likely all out of date and unavailable. Tapping into the wires is probably the best bet these days.
Anyway, I'll try to get those pics up & running!
My track day hobby killed my car stereo hobby and I'm way out of touch these days on equipment. The wiring, system design etc all applies all the way through the C6 generation but the modules recommended are likely all out of date and unavailable. Tapping into the wires is probably the best bet these days.
Anyway, I'll try to get those pics up & running!
They still do make the adapters/harness from what I can tell -
There is a pic just above here too of one completed by markcz
But I am really interested in seeing your pictures too!
Thanks,Matt