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Aftermarket 8" door speakers?

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Old 03-16-2011, 01:17 PM
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steel_3d
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Default Aftermarket 8" door speakers?

I have a base C6 with non-bose stereo. Driver's side thumper is blown, crackling, so I'm looking for options that don't involve a sub in the back or tearing up too much of the interior. Don't wanna attract thieves. The stock system is almost enough for me, especially if it didn't have a propensity to blow speakers. It provides decent low-end for electronic music, so I don't want to go to small mid bass drivers (6.5") with no sub...

So my ideal solution would be 7-10" mid-bass drivers in the stock location with an MDF adapter.
Possibly an aftermarket amp in the stock amp location if I can reuse the stock wiring.
For sound deadening I'll use RAAMat + Ensolite in the doors.
Boston S35 2-ways.

Has anyone tried this and can suggest what would work? Specifically mid-bass drivers and/or amps/crossovers in the stock location? Thanks a lot.
Old 03-16-2011, 02:42 PM
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rcmigpilot
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PM Rick at raamaudio, he was working on a system that used the ARC mini amps in the stock location and 6 x 9s in the doors. He's shooting for a high end, audiophile sound, but you may be able to "dumb it down". If you do a search there's some info in this forum.
Old 03-20-2011, 12:43 PM
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rmedina
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I would just replace your subs with some 2ohm 6x9s. I think jbl makes a pair. Good luck..
Old 03-21-2011, 02:24 PM
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steel_3d
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So no actual experiences?

My problem with 6x9's is that I need something that goes down really low, as a sub replacement, and I'm not sure if most 6x9's will do it. I'm also not sure if the aftermarket 2 Ohm 6x9's would be as sensitive as the stocker and be driven as well by the stock system...

My plan right now is something like this:

Morel CAW 938 9" 8 Ohm + mini amp in stock location 75w@4Ohm, reusing factory wiring.

Opinions?
Old 03-21-2011, 02:30 PM
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Kale
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I have 8" mids in my c5. I wouldn't do it again. Too many problems caused by it.

Although maybe you wouldn't have the same problems since you're running morels and they are at a fraction of the power I'm using.
Old 03-21-2011, 02:35 PM
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Yeah I'm not planning on running insane SPL though my doors, just a bit better than stock.
Old 03-21-2011, 02:53 PM
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BTW, what 8" are you running, and how would it compare to a morel in my situation? I'm having a hard time finding woofer options not knowing how deep I can go with mounting depth or how thick of a spacer I can use to compensate before I hit the door panel. Haven't taken the door panel off yet to measure. My preferred choice would be the 8" Peerless SLS, based on reviews, but I'm almost sure I can't fit that with its 4.8" mounting depth.
Old 03-21-2011, 05:39 PM
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markcz
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Door sub location has 3.5-4" depth IIRC, and you can put at least a 0.5" spacer for MOST of it on top (shine a flashlight into grill to see it).
Old 03-21-2011, 07:30 PM
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.5" spacer with a sub in door is gonna be pushing it you will prly hit door panel
Old 03-21-2011, 11:39 PM
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CraigE
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Mounting Depth.

2007 C6 Doors
From face of OEM fiberglass baffle;

2-7/8" to sled

3-1/8" to rail.

3-3/4" to glass.


Caution that is ZERO clearance !

I use 1" total (baffle and spacer) with no rubbing of the speaker to the factory grill, with the Peerless SLS 6.5.
Old 03-21-2011, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
I have 8" mids in my c5. I wouldn't do it again. Too many problems caused by it.

Although maybe you wouldn't have the same problems since you're running morels and they are at a fraction of the power I'm using.
what 8's wer ethey what were the problems? just the size getting them to fit or was the sound a problem did you need a lot of EQ? wierd xover points? what freq did you xover and what was the midrange/tweeters used?
Old 03-22-2011, 01:38 AM
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Dynaudio 8s at 375 a piece. I have a ton of sound deadening, but the sound from the bass region is so obnoxious I have to pretty much slash the **** out of it - So basically it can go lower than 6.5s (big deal) with a lot more tuning and they fall off faster.

I run them in a 2 way. From 0hz-2.5khz (or 50hz if I'm playing music with **** compressed recording quality )
then tweeters from 3.2khz on up.

The gap is to avoid a nasty effect at 3khz in the c5 cockpit.


If I don't care about listening to accurate sound, I'll defeat the EQ and they pump out some surprising bass. But it sounds very artificial because it blows away the rest of the system and gets muddy in the 160-220 range because it's killing my door panels.



If you have your heart set on three ways, use an SLS 6.5, then use a 4" speaker that can do down low enough to meet the SLS 6.5.

Last edited by Kale; 03-22-2011 at 01:43 AM.
Old 03-22-2011, 02:02 AM
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steel_3d
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Originally Posted by CraigE
Mounting Depth.

2007 C6 Doors
From face of OEM fiberglass baffle;

2-7/8" to sled

3-1/8" to rail.

3-3/4" to glass.


Caution that is ZERO clearance !

I use 1" total (baffle and spacer) with no rubbing of the speaker to the factory grill, with the Peerless SLS 6.5.
Is the glass the ultimate limit, or do the other components obstruct the basket as well? Did you really need a 1" spacer to get the SLS 6.5 to clear? Looks like it's only 3.3" deep https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8234

According to your measurements, I'm getting my hopes up about the 4" deep SLS 8 fitting... I guess I remembered the specs wrong: https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=1386 Although an 8" might rub sooner than a 6.5.

How do you like the 6.5?
Old 03-22-2011, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Kale
Dynaudio 8s at 375 a piece. I have a ton of sound deadening, but the sound from the bass region is so obnoxious I have to pretty much slash the **** out of it - So basically it can go lower than 6.5s (big deal) with a lot more tuning and they fall off faster.

I run them in a 2 way. From 0hz-2.5khz (or 50hz if I'm playing music with **** compressed recording quality )
then tweeters from 3.2khz on up.

The gap is to avoid a nasty effect at 3khz in the c5 cockpit.


If I don't care about listening to accurate sound, I'll defeat the EQ and they pump out some surprising bass. But it sounds very artificial because it blows away the rest of the system and gets muddy in the 160-220 range because it's killing my door panels.



If you have your heart set on three ways, use an SLS 6.5, then use a 4" speaker that can do down low enough to meet the SLS 6.5.
let me ask you this, based on your personal experience. i am thinking about running the JL ZR800-CW 8" midbass component and the JL C2-350 3.5" coaxial in my C6 Z06
ive been in car audio for pretty much since i started driving (40 yrs old now) and subwoofers are my specialty. but i have not messed much with trying to get bass from a free air sub in a door like this before and trying to get double duty from it then adding a mid/tweet
my biggest concern is the xover point from mid to high i am not worried at all about how much bass ill get from the 8 im a little worried it will get muddy on the top end.
your setup sounds like a difficult one to EQ because your asking a 8" to play 2.5k verses what i am trying to do is just get it to 400 hz then the 3.5 will pick up from there and it has a tweet on it so my hope is that ill effectivly get a decent 3way setup.

your not running a midrange from the sounds of it. supposedly the 3.5 will still be effective at 400 hz so i need to get the 8 up to near there. i really want to avoid putting a sub in the back but considering using a ported 8" sub in the cubby or somthing like that if i need additional low end.

i had a lengthy discussion with manville smith yesterday on the phone (vp of marketing for JL audio) he was very helpful and was very knowledgable about the system in the vette. like me he also acknoledged what a well engineered speaker bose came up with for the C6 a lot of people think it's a crap speaker but for the application its pretty impressive what it actually does!
my goal is to keep most of that midbass but with a driver that can deliver the rest of what a component should.
i plan to run a 5 channel amp using the sub channel for the 2 8's and then use the other 4 channels to run the 3.5 in front and the 5.25 in the rear.
i guess what i am asking you is do you think it's possible to ask an 8" speaker to play that range from 400hz and down accuratly without a whole lot of EQ to keep it clean? my other worry is the 3.5" i don't know how much EQ bose had to do to make that sound decent.
Old 03-22-2011, 02:05 PM
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CraigE
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Originally Posted by steel_3d
Is the glass the ultimate limit, or do the other components obstruct the basket as well? Did you really need a 1" spacer to get the SLS 6.5 to clear? Looks like it's only 3.3" deep https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8234

According to your measurements, I'm getting my hopes up about the 4" deep SLS 8 fitting... I guess I remembered the specs wrong: https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=1386 Although an 8" might rub sooner than a 6.5.

How do you like the 6.5?
2007 C6

A larger diameter magnet would likely hit the sled vs a magnet that tapers. The sled and rail are positioned toward the rear of the car as related to center of the stock opening by a few inches.

No, I did not need a 1" spacer.
I considered the SLS 8, but it was to close for my comfort level.

I'm happy with the SLS 6.5. The midbass impact is far better than the previously installed Dynaudio MW 162.
It's hard to go wrong with the SLS especially for the price.

The SLS 6.5 or SLS8 will play up to around 500-600 Hz. So they would not work in a 2-way system using tweeters.

I've actually tried the Boston 3.5" coaxials with the SLS 6.5 in the stock door locations, and a 10" sub in the rear;

It did not sound bad at all. The stage was low, about top of dash,and the stage depth was lacking.
I now have tweeter pods on the dash near the A-pillars, and 3" midrange in the upper door locations, with much better height and depth.

It sounds like the setup you're proposing will work, I would highly recommend a good sound processor with time alignment and EQ for each channel.

Last edited by CraigE; 03-22-2011 at 02:19 PM.
Old 03-22-2011, 02:14 PM
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Kale
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My 8" speakers play from about 3khz down clean. But they fall off fast after 2.4khz. It depends on the driver design.

That said, you usually give up low end for high end. the Dynaudio 8s are not subs or dedicated midbasses - they are very large midranges.

All the EQ trouble comes from the mounting, mounting location, and resonances in cabin.

Road noise is the biggest problem. My system, sans sub, eqd, sounds fantastic with the perfect amount of bass while parked. Once on the road, even with heavy sound deadening.... all bets are off.

Last edited by Kale; 03-22-2011 at 02:17 PM.
Old 03-24-2011, 01:40 AM
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steel_3d
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Kale, you used to run SLS 6.5's right? Why did you switch? To go 2-way? You wouldn't have a guess on whether the 8 would fit in a c6, huh?

Btw, the Qts on the 6.5 seems pretty low at 0.35. But some of you guys seem to be running it with success... Hmmm... Does it play down low enough to be a sub replacement at medium volume? From the response graph it looks like it drops off a bit faster than the 8", but still decent.

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