TheRadioFlyer

This is a basic outline of how I plan to wire the components of my sound system. Please let me know if I missed anything and if the wire routes look good.



Application: 2002 Corvette Coupe

Source:
Alpine IVA-W505

Processors:
Alpine PXA H701 Setup for 3-way front stage active x-over (no rear channel)
Epicenter 150 Subwoofer Harmonics processor….just for fun

Amplification:
(2) Alpine MRP-F300 (one left and one right channels)
Channel 1 – tweeter
Channel 2 – Midrange
Channel ¾ (bridged) Mid bass
JL 500/1

Drivers:
SPX 107r Midrange/tweeters
SPX 17MB Mid bass
JL 12w6v2 Subwoofer (sealed custom box)

Planned passive acoustics:
Second skin “Damplifier” sound deadener
Second skin “Luxury liner Pro” Acoustic foam

pentavolvo

looks good to me, personally i wouldnt use a yellowtop

TheRadioFlyer

curious why. I' picked it because of it's longer standby time and not being as cranky when it's discharged heavily (which I tend to do)

WAwatchnut

I would run the ground wire from the amps all to a common ground. Preferably the mid bass amps grounded wherever the sub amp is grounded (with large gauge wire). The fewer the groung loops the better.

TheRadioFlyer

In that case, would I do better to extend the ground from the amp rack to the Frame ground in the rear bumper or extend the sub amp/power converter ground to the passenger seat bolt?

0Double D Mods

the yellow top sucks
i went through 3 of them in 2 years with nothing but issues with my setup. Battery was always dead
took the 3rd one back they gave me 100.00 back and an AutoZone Gold and never had any issue since

save the money and skip to Yellow Top

0Double D Mods

either

Kale

my sears platinum battery has been amazing so far =)

TheRadioFlyer

I would except I already have it. Compared to my old red top, I have have no problem with it over the past year.

Most of the components listed have are transferring over fro my old car. All i need to get are the head unit, H/O alternator and various wiring components.

Regarding the ground issue, I think I'm going to ground on the frame in the rear. This makes it easier to take the seat out if/when I drop something between the seat and tunnel I can't reach.

pentavolvo

there is also a good ground in the seatbelt pillar. with the power you plan on running big3 and an oem alternator may be enough

0Double D Mods

I would highly recommend the Kenwood over the Alpine for sound quality

Thrash

AutoZone stopped carrying yella & red tops (for obvious reasons) ... the rest looks great -except tweets should be on the A-pillar, easy with a flush ring in the flat spots (atchd) ...

TheRadioFlyer

Yea, the tweets will be in the A-pillers. The diagram just doesn't picture it too well.

woodman300

where do you get those rings?

woodman300

do you already have the f300s. i was looking at that amp but i found the f30 was of better quality. only about $75 difference in price each. also curious about the sub box, is it going in the back facing toward the front? were you going to remove the trim panel to fit? and last, will you still be able to take the top off and store in the back?

TheRadioFlyer

Already have the F300s from the previous car. I'm curious what quality difference you found.

Sub box will be facing straight up sitting inside the cargo bin for maximum use of the cargo space.

The top will be store-able in the cargo area.

woodman300

it was total harmonic distortion. f300 is rated at 1% and the f30 is rated at .08%. you probably can't hear the difference but anyway, i found that info on the alpine website. i remembered from buying audio equipment for the home how manufacturers rated their amps and i also remembered that car electronics were never as clean as home audio. no big surprise there seeing as a home system doesn't have to deal with heat, vibration and small size. with the lower THD, you can really turn it up and not worry about it breaking up.

TheRadioFlyer

I see. Since i already have the F300s, I think i can learn to deal with the 0.02% difference.....at least until I get rid of my runflat tires