Rafal

I was told to post this in the audio section. Makes sense I guess.

My car is a 2006 bose and onstar equipped z51.

I install my new Pioneer AppRadio with OS-2BOSE. Before putting all cables in, I check everything for sound, there's none. I connect it again, perhaps loose connection or something, sound is back on! Voilla! Happy, I put cables in, screw console in and enjoy my new navigation.

Next day, I start my car, there's no sound again. I play with the settings, nothing helps.

Third day, driving around, my gf tries using the Bluetooth, presses the volume button, sound is back. Oh wow, it works!

Fourth day, I restart my battery to fix my window indexing. Start my car again, guess what, no sound!

Ever since, there was no sound.

I brought my car to a friend, he checked the electric output from the nav - power present. Power out of the interface - present. Power out of amp - not present.


I was told my amplifier fried when restarted the battery, but it seems like the issue was there before I did that.

Do I need another relay? Or is that amplifier that is broken?

Thanks!

pentavolvo

be 100% sure there is adequate remote turn on power leaving the interface it is a common issue, i would jumper your remote wire around the interface

markcz

A quick way to check the amp... Use test probes (or even just a short piece of wire with both ends stripped) to connect the trigger terminal of the amp to the B+ terminal on the amp. You don't need to unscrew anything, just hold the leads to each terminal. If it powers up, then your issue is the trigger voltage not getting from the HU through the interface and to the amp (as Greg suggested).

Rafal

Thanks guys. I'm a complete noob and what I know best, I should not touch it as I would cause more harm.

I noticed while driving, there's this sound of something, maybe amp, like if something powered up but then died. Happens every 4-5 minutes.

Rafal

bump

markcz

Do you have the original amp/speaker setup or aftermarket?

Assuming oem...

Check/replace fuse #31 under the hood.

Most likely it's the amp trigger signal that isn't getting through the interface to the oem amp. Get a few in-line splice taps (available at wal-mart in the radio isle of the car section), I'd recommend the red ones for 18-22g wire. Use a piece of spare wire (about 6" long) and connect the blue (or blue/white) "remote amp turn on" wire coming out of the new radio to the wire on the new harness that connects to pin B3 of the original GM plug.

If that's not it, then your amp may be fried, but that's a bit unlikely.

Rafal

OEM amp/speakers

Checked fuse #31, looks fine.

Will it say B3 on the GM plug wire?

Looks like an opportunity to install my new cf console.

markcz

I believe the plug is labeled if you look close enough, but I usually just use the wire colors. The wire you're looking for is the white one that's the 3rd pin in from the end, it should be the only solid white wire in that plug. I would follow that wire to the plug, then connect the jumper to the wire in the harness that attaches to B3.

C6 prints are HERE, check out the pinouts for C1 to see the other colors you should expect, and a 'map' of C1.

Rafal

Just wanted to thank you a lot for your advice. It worked!

I have music in my car for the first time in 2 months!

markcz

Rafal

Small update. Not sure if you saw my thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...s-in-a-c6.html

my vette was dying within 2 nights completely. I had no idea what the issue was. Eventually, convinced it was not the navigation since it was working fine October-December, I tracked the problem down to BCM. However after bringing my car to a dealership, they said it was the radio drawing so much power to kill the battery.

Today with my friend we took the appradio out, checked the drainage with a test light and multimeter, amplifier check, it wasn't the wrong power source connected (markcz suggestion is still great). Came out the interface (OS-2BOSE) is causing the drainage (5V !!!). Is it possible? Anyone stumbled upon a problem like this before?

I'm on a fence of selling this navigation and going back to the stock radio. It has cost me 2 interfaces and a dealership visit ($ouch$).

Thanks

markcz

Current draw would be in mA, not V. You need to cut/disconnect the yellow wire feeding the os2c and connect the meter leads in series with the cut wire (all current goes through the meter). Make sure the meter is on current/amps and read what it says. I have no idea what it should be, but I'm guessing <20 mA. You'd have to call PAC to see what expected current draw is, IF they can even tell you.

Is the battery lasting for you while the radio fuse is pulled?

markcz

A few other comments:

I read through your thread in C6 gen. That thread is a pretty good example of why I avoid C6 gen... everyone is an expert. A few people truly try to help, everyone else piles on or replies to post #2 without reading 3-30. I surf the forum to relax after work, I'll post tech advice that has been verified, or give my opinions if asked. When it comes to topics I don't have intelligent answers for, I don't post. 90% of the threads is the gen sections have so much BS in them I find myself getting ticked off instead or relaxing. Sorry for the rant.

Regarding your drainage issue. It could be a bad os2, if it wasn't connected properly it most likely wouldn't be working. It could also be onstar. It may be worth the effort to replace the radio fuse and pull the onstar fuse, just to see if that corrects the issue also.

MRBLONDE13

Did this ever solve your issue? Were you able to track down the cause of your Current drain? I am having the same issue and before pulling fuse 31 on my Aftermarket Navig. System when testing the current draw from the battery, my current drain drops from 69 mA to the acceptable 21 mA level that is common straight from the factory. I also had to install the (non)-Bose Pac 2 interface (which keeps Onstar, etc) but I am going to also pull the onstar fuse to see if this help my battery drain. Thankfully I have a spare OS2 to test it on, as our helpful expert markcz suggested.

Rafal

Hi,
I no longer have the vette but I remember I ended up buying a new interface and the problem was solved.

Eventually I also went back to stock nav. Which later had DVD issues and wouldn't read map or music, but that's a whole another story.

Bart Bruurmijn

Although a older thread it worked fine for me!
Thank you for the info on the trigger for the Bose.
The Pac untit I've only gave 7.5 volts to the trigger which wasnt enough. I connected the trigger with the acc + line and it works like a charm.

Kind regards,
Bart