Big-3 install on C6 (w/24 pix)
11-23-2011, 03:02 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Big-3 install on C6 (w/24 pix)
I am doing a total audio upgrade and am starting with THE BIG 3! Figured this would help all things to come and make the FOB work better. So I got that done today in just over 3 hours, most of which was crimping and soldering the cable ends. Photos will follow the descriptions:
Big-3 Process: Big 1) Ground (-) wire from engine block to frame. Big 2) Ground wire from battery to frame. Big 3) Power wire from alternator to battery (+).
1) Basic parts:
- Alternator to Batt Cable: 6 feet of premium red 4 gauge power (+) cable, crimp-ring on one end, other end bare into multi-post clamp. Metallic sheathing added for protection
- ANL Fuseholder (Lightning Audio) & 150 amp ANL fuse (Stinger)
- Battery Multi-Post Clamps (2), Gold-Plated (Rockford & Stinger)
- Batt to Frame & Frame to Engine Block: Black 4 gauge ground (-) cables, pre-cut, cut down, crimp ring and soldered (Pep Boys)
- Engine Block Bolt: M10x1.5x20, add Loc-tite.
Lower both windows, remove both fuel rail covers, disconnect both battery terminals and remove the battery. Ready to start ...
2) Pick a grounding spot on the block. I used this threaded hole on the front left of the engine block just under the FRC, some people use this for their catch-can. It did have a plastic loom anchor in it which I relocated just to the right there. You'll need a M10x1.5x20 bolt.
3) Add a couple of drops of Loc-tite to the bolt.
4) Bolt on the first 4 gauge ground cable (32" long, which I cut to 20" then added a crimp-ring and soldered). I did not torque this, just tightened firmly.
5) Here you see the stock battery to frame ground nut and ring (silver), the cable is just maybe 8 or 12 gauge. I decided to place a new anchor bolt that was thicker just below that. Here the self-tapping bolt hole has been drilled (I used a 3/8"-14 x 3/4" self-drilling hex bolt).
6) Scuff up the ring seating area for optimal contact, I used a Dremel tool with grinding stone attached.
7 & 8) Disconnect the stock ground ring.
9) New ground connection to frame, put bolt through rings and ratchet down, 3-way: 1-Engine block, 2-Stock ground cable, 3-New Battery to frame cable.
10) I cut off the original negative battery clamp, which leaves you with these two upper cables (a 6 gauge and 10 gauge). I added a crimp-ring, soldered and taped it. The smaller cable will go into one the new multi-post clamp's 8-gauge mounting holes. The bottom cable is the new battery to frame cable, it was a 40" cable cut to 34", then added a crimp-ring and soldered.
11) New Negative-Ground (-) multi-post installed and three ground cables attached. I also added dielectric grease to the terminal posts before installing. At this point we have installed the BIG-2 of 3 ... time for a beer - it's 5 o'clock somewhere.
12 & 13) Added expandable metallic sheathing to the 4 gauge power cable. I had 10 feet of cable, measured and cut to the 6 feet length, added a crimp-ring to one end and soldered, then taped the sheathing at the ends.
14, 15 & 16) Pull off rubber alternator boot and unbolt the stock connector. Add new cable and stock cable, tighten and recover with boot (I made a small slit you can see on #14 that allowed the boot to cover both rings).
17) Run cable under obstacles and behind engine block, avoiding the manifold and as much of the block as possible, then around and over to the battery area.
18) Layout the cable and determine where to place the inline ANL fuse (I put mine about 10" from the end so as to be able to tuck it out of the way to the left), cut the cable and strip off ends and connect to the fuseholder.
19) Cut off the positive battery clamp, but be sure to leave as much cable as possible, you'll need it (the stock wiring here is a 6 gauge and 8 gauge wire). My new terminal had two 2 gauge and one 8 gauge connector, now prep the 3 bare cable ends, insert and tighten.
20) Attach to terminal post, tighten and add the covers.
21) This shows how the power cable runs behind the left side of the engine, with the ANL fuse set off to the left side.
22 - 24) Time for a test start (WOW, it works!) ...
LASTLY re-index the windows: Roll the windows all the way down, then one by one pull up on the window switch for 5+ seconds. ALL DONE ... time for another beer
Big-3 Process: Big 1) Ground (-) wire from engine block to frame. Big 2) Ground wire from battery to frame. Big 3) Power wire from alternator to battery (+).
1) Basic parts:
- Alternator to Batt Cable: 6 feet of premium red 4 gauge power (+) cable, crimp-ring on one end, other end bare into multi-post clamp. Metallic sheathing added for protection
- ANL Fuseholder (Lightning Audio) & 150 amp ANL fuse (Stinger)
- Battery Multi-Post Clamps (2), Gold-Plated (Rockford & Stinger)
- Batt to Frame & Frame to Engine Block: Black 4 gauge ground (-) cables, pre-cut, cut down, crimp ring and soldered (Pep Boys)
- Engine Block Bolt: M10x1.5x20, add Loc-tite.
Lower both windows, remove both fuel rail covers, disconnect both battery terminals and remove the battery. Ready to start ...
2) Pick a grounding spot on the block. I used this threaded hole on the front left of the engine block just under the FRC, some people use this for their catch-can. It did have a plastic loom anchor in it which I relocated just to the right there. You'll need a M10x1.5x20 bolt.
3) Add a couple of drops of Loc-tite to the bolt.
4) Bolt on the first 4 gauge ground cable (32" long, which I cut to 20" then added a crimp-ring and soldered). I did not torque this, just tightened firmly.
5) Here you see the stock battery to frame ground nut and ring (silver), the cable is just maybe 8 or 12 gauge. I decided to place a new anchor bolt that was thicker just below that. Here the self-tapping bolt hole has been drilled (I used a 3/8"-14 x 3/4" self-drilling hex bolt).
6) Scuff up the ring seating area for optimal contact, I used a Dremel tool with grinding stone attached.
7 & 8) Disconnect the stock ground ring.
9) New ground connection to frame, put bolt through rings and ratchet down, 3-way: 1-Engine block, 2-Stock ground cable, 3-New Battery to frame cable.
10) I cut off the original negative battery clamp, which leaves you with these two upper cables (a 6 gauge and 10 gauge). I added a crimp-ring, soldered and taped it. The smaller cable will go into one the new multi-post clamp's 8-gauge mounting holes. The bottom cable is the new battery to frame cable, it was a 40" cable cut to 34", then added a crimp-ring and soldered.
11) New Negative-Ground (-) multi-post installed and three ground cables attached. I also added dielectric grease to the terminal posts before installing. At this point we have installed the BIG-2 of 3 ... time for a beer - it's 5 o'clock somewhere.
12 & 13) Added expandable metallic sheathing to the 4 gauge power cable. I had 10 feet of cable, measured and cut to the 6 feet length, added a crimp-ring to one end and soldered, then taped the sheathing at the ends.
14, 15 & 16) Pull off rubber alternator boot and unbolt the stock connector. Add new cable and stock cable, tighten and recover with boot (I made a small slit you can see on #14 that allowed the boot to cover both rings).
17) Run cable under obstacles and behind engine block, avoiding the manifold and as much of the block as possible, then around and over to the battery area.
18) Layout the cable and determine where to place the inline ANL fuse (I put mine about 10" from the end so as to be able to tuck it out of the way to the left), cut the cable and strip off ends and connect to the fuseholder.
19) Cut off the positive battery clamp, but be sure to leave as much cable as possible, you'll need it (the stock wiring here is a 6 gauge and 8 gauge wire). My new terminal had two 2 gauge and one 8 gauge connector, now prep the 3 bare cable ends, insert and tighten.
20) Attach to terminal post, tighten and add the covers.
21) This shows how the power cable runs behind the left side of the engine, with the ANL fuse set off to the left side.
22 - 24) Time for a test start (WOW, it works!) ...
LASTLY re-index the windows: Roll the windows all the way down, then one by one pull up on the window switch for 5+ seconds. ALL DONE ... time for another beer
Last edited by Thrash; 11-27-2011 at 01:27 PM.
11-23-2011, 04:37 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
Nice 
Only one comment. You said you used a 3/8-16 bolt in the engine block, I just did my big 3 about a month ago and I could have sworn it was a metric bolt in my LS2. IIRC it was an M10x1.5x20, which is just a tick bigger than 3/8"
Only one comment. You said you used a 3/8-16 bolt in the engine block, I just did my big 3 about a month ago and I could have sworn it was a metric bolt in my LS2. IIRC it was an M10x1.5x20, which is just a tick bigger than 3/8"
11-23-2011, 06:15 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Good point Mark (dang it, my first step-post and fail!), it was a loose bolt I had that SEEMED to fit, but it did seem a touch loose though it clamped down nicely. So I'll p/u that metric one tomorrow and see if it fits better, and then revise the post. Maybe it's a LS2-3 thing? Why is GM doing metric anyway? Thanks ...
Last edited by Thrash; 11-23-2011 at 06:18 PM.
11-26-2011, 12:23 AM
#8
Team Owner
Good job laying the foundation for your system.
After all the audio is finished, get some S/S longtubes on! Underhood music is nice also, not to mention the extra kick.
After all the audio is finished, get some S/S longtubes on! Underhood music is nice also, not to mention the extra kick.
11-27-2011, 12:50 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
12-11-2011, 09:19 AM
#12
He probably meant engine music or exhaust pipes. Headers sound sweet on a Vette. It is almost like what I told a kid at the Raleigh Car show at Fair Grounds...He saw a real 427 COBRA and he asked where was the radio. When the gentleman that owned the COBRA started it, I told him, "son when you have a 427 with 500 plus horses that is your radio."
12-11-2011, 10:40 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I was just asking as a recent car-expo this guy had speakers behind the front grill and back bumper (on a Subaru or other ricer). Pretty wild and sounded really clear and balanced ...
