Mike Green9

Hi.

I am upgrading the audio in my ‘08 3LT A6 coupe which has a Bose Premium (NO Nav) system.
I have experience in removing the console for my DSV shift boot, and I installed BA tweets in the doors 3 years ago.

The Plan
Phase 1 -$1,000 budget: Replace Bose Head Unit and replace Bose 10" door speakers.

I am looking at the Pioneer AVH-P8400BH head unit: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...rs/AVH-P8400BH.

I have no need for a nav system, and this DVD receiver has a double DIN 7" high res display. Aside from improved audio and user interface, it will compliment the dash in a big way. There is also an add on nav module if required.

I am looking at Pioneer 6.5" TS-A1684R speakers:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ries/TS-A1684R

No compatibility issues if I stick with the same manufacturer.

Hooking It Up
The following is a subject to more research and Forum input:

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

I will then remove the Bose HU, and plug the OEM integration module Peripheral GMAH24B into the exposed dash harness.

I will connect all the Low Level leads (4) from the GMAH24B into the Pioneer HU Low Level outputs: both front door tweets, and both rear speakers. I will let the Bose amp power these 4 speakers. I will be setting the fader control on the Pioneer to at least 80% front/20% rear.

I will make the Low Level output wires, and the ‘Sub out’ wire, a little longer so that I can loop them behind the floor carpet just outside of the console for easy future access. No need to remove the console cover for Phase 2 (external amp) and Phase 3 (Sub). Hopefully these Low Level lines will not be antennae for noise.

The Bose amp & connections will remain as is.

I will use the existing 15 amp power line (the Pioneer has a 10 amp fuse - tells me that the 4 X 50 watt output is more like 4 X 22 watts).

I will use the existing ground.

I will run a pair of speaker wires to each door for the new Pioneer speakers, and connect these leads into the L/R Front Speaker Outputs on the Pioneer HU.

I will use the Metra 40-GM10 adapter to hook up the antenna.


Questions
1. I already have BA tweets in the doors. The Pioneer speakers have built in tweets. My thinking is to power the BA tweets through the Bose amp (as it is now), fed by the L/R Low Level Front Outputs on the Pioneer HU.
I would also power the Pioneer door speakers via the L/R Speaker Level Front Outputs on the Pioneer HU.
Would this create any conflicts - dual tweeters on each door, fed by different amps, fed by Low Level and Speaker Level outputs on the HU ?

2. The OEM integration module Peripheral GMAH24B seems to integrate Onstar, chimes, steering wheel controls, and keeps the BCM happy re HU swap (VIN). However I’m told that I may also need the GMAHCM chime control, and possibly a PAC Audio SWI-PS (Peswix) Steering Wheel Control Adapter. Is this true ? AND
The GMAH24B has a 12v relay for power - why would I use it ?
(I am keeping the Bose amp & I thought the Bose amp handled chimes.)

3. The specs on the GMAH24B says: “Bose vehicles will not fade as the rear outputs of aftermarket radio can not be used.”. Is this true, and if so, is there a way around this ? I know, I know, the rear channels should not be used, but I can always shut them off with the Fader control. I hate to lose functionality.

4. GM Schematics show a ‘Data Communications’ Orange wire connected to the Bose HU. Is this for Steering wheel controls ?

5. GM Schematics show there is an ‘instrument cluster’ to ‘Denso Radio’ (nav) Green/White wire connected to the Bose HU. Is this for night time screen intensity?

6. The 15 amp fused power line is controlled by the BCM. I imagine this is for the ignition on/off switch, and for RAP. Is there an easily accessible permanent +12 volts nearby ? What does the Bose HU use for its permanent +12 volt source ?

7. GM Schematics show an Orange wire connecting the Bose HU to the Bose Amp. Is this the permanent +12 volts ?

8. GM Schematics show a White wire connecting the Bose HU to the Bose Amp. It is also hooked up to a NAV system, and ends up in the car door mirrors with a funny symbol (small cannister with a T top, and an arrow at the base). This appears to be the XM antenna. How does this hook up to the Pioneer HU ?

9. GM Schematics show a Grey wire connecting the Bose HU to the Bose Amp with that funny symbol again. What is it ?

10. There is a lead coming off the Pioneer HU that is supposed to connect to a ‘lighting switch terminal’. Is this for night time screen intensity ?

11. Do I require an add on ‘gizmo’ to give me back XM capability ?

12. I will use fellow forum member "TheKomoman” speaker mounting plates in the doors: http://www.smokinvette.com/corvettef...ad.php?t=17129
Do I need to add any additional door re-enforcing (aluminum bars) ?

13. There may be a 3/4" protrusion in the face (dispersion grate) of the Pioneer speakers. Also, the 6.5" speaker mounting plate is fairly thick. Is there enough clearance between the door frame and the door panel for all this ?

14. Are the Bose Door Amps able to be separated from the 10" speakers and used at all ? I know Bose blows, but for Phase 1, it would be nice to have an amp in each door. The Bose amp under the dash, and the 2 door amps, are all hooked up to a 30 amp fuse under the hood. Thus I imagine the door amps may kick out as much as 100 watts each.

Here is the GM schematic that I’m using:



As you can see, I need help. And any help will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,


M....

pentavolvo

you do not need to get pioneer speakers just because you have a pioneer radio

ditch everything you have in the doors and get a 6.5" component set and amplify them

markcz

1,000,000%

You're making it way more complicated than it needs to be.

Maybe make phase 1 = get new HU ($ is up to you)

Then phase 2 = door components and amp ($600 is more than enough to get good stuff)

and finish with phase 3 = install sub ($300ish for a corner box, plus sub of choice ~$150 that works with previously purchased amp)

If you want rears (additional $100), go with 5-channel amp. No rears = 4-channel amp.

Re ?'s in the OP....

Whatever interface adapter you get will come with instructions on how to connect it. This D2 install thread has much good info in it also.

1. I'm guessing your 'BA Tweets' are 3.5" coaxials. Keep them until you remove door subs, then install 6.5" component set (not coaxial like you have linked to).

2. Peripheral GMAH24B provides switched 12v to turn on radio and plays chimes if you add the CM module. You need to buy an additional SWI module that works with the new HU you get. The relay is there to protect the interface from high current flow, use it.

3. While you have oem amp/speakers, I have no idea. Once you get aftermarket amp/speakers you have full control of fade.

Look at my '07 prints HERE, they're essentially identical, but labeled much better (closer to english instead of engineer speak).

4. That's the class2 data line that the GMAH would listen in on to know when the radio should turn on.

5. That's the VSS wire, but it may not be there. Check out link to D2 install above to see where to find it in footwell.

6. B+ = BATTERY, that is the constant. There is NOT a SWITCHED power wire in harness (see #4).

7. no, mute wire

8 & 11. oem XM is lost with new HU. If you want XM you need to buy module for new HU.

9. look at my prints or at the symbol key in your service manual

10. The orange or orange/white illumination wire from the new HU needs to be connected to the gray/black wire under the TC/AH switch on the armrest.

12. plates are all you need, any 6.5" speaker will fit fine

13. amps are integrated to subs, ditch them as a set

I NEED A BEER

Mike Green9

Thanks for all the info - much appreciated. I will change my plan to do HU and speakers and amp as phase 1.

This time I only have 2 questions (whew):

You said “The orange or orange/white illumination wire from the new HU needs to be connected to the gray/black wire under the TC/AH switch on the armrest.”

The Pioneer manual says: “orange/white connect to lighting switch terminal”

What exactly is this wire looking for ? As far as I remember, the TCH/AH switch is not lighted.




Can you recommend a 6.5" component door speaker. It must be 4 ohms, and handle 100 watts rms of power.
Ever hear of : http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...nce-RM6.2.html

Are Kickers any good ?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Dampening.html

Thanks guys,


M...

markcz

Before you buy anything (even the HU) contact forum member C5 BearsFan, Dennis can hook you up

I don't think I've heard either of the component sets you linked to, but I haven't heard/read anything bad either as far as I can remember.

If you're looking at sound deadening contact Rick at RAAMaudio, his stuff is easily the best and at great prices.

Re the illumination wire....

MOST cars and aftermarket radios use a variable 5v signal to control the dash brightness. In C6 that would be the gray/black wire at TC/AH button. SOME radios just want a simple 12v that's on/off when lights are turned on. I'd bet that unit is in the first category. Connect it at the button, if it doesn't work run a wire to a light.

I just looked at the manual for my X920BT, it has the same 'lighting switch terminal' instruction. I have it connected at gray/black and it works great

Bootlegger

Can't wait to start the install on my own car now...