C5 Bose subs plus aftermarket 3.5" vs aftermarket component system
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
C5 Bose subs plus aftermarket 3.5" vs aftermarket component system
I just installed a Kenwood X996 HU and I want to upgrade the midrange and tweets. I'm already planning to go with a Polk MM sub, but haven't decided how big yet. I'm either going to go with a Boston Acoustics GT-275 or GT-2125 amp to run the sub depending on how big of a sub I get. For the rear speaks, I'll either throw something in there or unplug them altogether.
For the door speakers, I'm not sure what to do. I already have the Metra XSVI installed, so I can turn down the subs to the point they won't distort if I have the rest of the system cranked and install some nice aftermarket 3.5" speakers (I'm leaning towards Polk DB's or Infinity Kappa's). I'm also kicking around the idea of ditching the whole Bose setup and going with a Polk MM6501 component system. If I had a 4-channel amp, I would just get the components, run them with the front two channels of the amp, bridge the rear channel for the sub, and call it a day. (I used to have a Boston GT40 amp in a truck that I loved, and I'm now bummed that I sold it). The problem is, I want to mount the amp under the passenger seat where it is out of the way, and i can't seem to find a 4 channel amp that has adequate power on the bridged channel to run the MM1040D or MM1240D sub, not to mention being able to fit under the front seat where I want to put it. That would leave me with running the components off of deck power, which I'm concerned won't sound very good.
So, that's my dilemma. Any input would be appreciated.
For the door speakers, I'm not sure what to do. I already have the Metra XSVI installed, so I can turn down the subs to the point they won't distort if I have the rest of the system cranked and install some nice aftermarket 3.5" speakers (I'm leaning towards Polk DB's or Infinity Kappa's). I'm also kicking around the idea of ditching the whole Bose setup and going with a Polk MM6501 component system. If I had a 4-channel amp, I would just get the components, run them with the front two channels of the amp, bridge the rear channel for the sub, and call it a day. (I used to have a Boston GT40 amp in a truck that I loved, and I'm now bummed that I sold it). The problem is, I want to mount the amp under the passenger seat where it is out of the way, and i can't seem to find a 4 channel amp that has adequate power on the bridged channel to run the MM1040D or MM1240D sub, not to mention being able to fit under the front seat where I want to put it. That would leave me with running the components off of deck power, which I'm concerned won't sound very good.
So, that's my dilemma. Any input would be appreciated.
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Is 320wRMS enough for the sub, click here
Last edited by Pharmer81; 05-05-2012 at 09:01 AM.
#4
Tech Contributor
I put that amp into cruzr6's car last year with a shallow 10" in the back. All he's running is a set of components in the doors and the one sub in back. My setup had 350w to a 10" sub. They both get plenty loud
#5
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Thread Starter
Also, back to the original question. What will be the difference between components vs stock subs with new 3.5's?
Last edited by Pharmer81; 05-05-2012 at 11:56 AM.
#6
Tech Contributor
Re the company, I think their stuff is pretty good.
For that particular amp, it is a class D, but for the power it puts out in the space it takes up, and for that price, it's a GREAT deal.
For that particular amp, it is a class D, but for the power it puts out in the space it takes up, and for that price, it's a GREAT deal.
#10
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Thread Starter
Thanks, I just dropped him an email. At that point, if I am amping components, do I need the Metra interface anymore? If not, what kind of wiring adapter do I get to still get power, ground, etc, and send signal to the rear speakers? Also, how difficult is it to run speaker wires into the doors. I've done tons of stereo installs in the past, but as I have a 10 month old, I just don't have enough continuous time to gut the interior and do a proper install. I'm not going to cut corners, but it won't be as good as it could be if I tore out every piece of plastic and removed the carpet.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
I'll see what Dennis comes up with for components as well, but here are some others I found. Anybody want to weigh in?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...CTX-6.5cs.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-C2-650.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-Material.html
And a whole myriad of good looking deals on this webpage.
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewcategory.php?groupid=0
I've always liked Polk speakers in the past, but it seems that there are so many new options at pretty decent prices, and it has been a while since I've dabble in stereo equipment, so I'd value input from anybody who has a good current knowledge of what's good and what's not. What is most important to me in the sound is tight, solid snare hits, and deep, full, warm vocals. I like dynamic highs, but I prefer them to be smooth, not tinny and scooped sounding.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...CTX-6.5cs.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-C2-650.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-Material.html
And a whole myriad of good looking deals on this webpage.
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewcategory.php?groupid=0
I've always liked Polk speakers in the past, but it seems that there are so many new options at pretty decent prices, and it has been a while since I've dabble in stereo equipment, so I'd value input from anybody who has a good current knowledge of what's good and what's not. What is most important to me in the sound is tight, solid snare hits, and deep, full, warm vocals. I like dynamic highs, but I prefer them to be smooth, not tinny and scooped sounding.
Last edited by Pharmer81; 05-06-2012 at 02:10 PM.
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
I've narrowed down my amp choices as well. After reading more about Powerbass, it appears they are built along-side the Image Dynamics amps.
I was going to go with the Boston Acoustics GT475 originally,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350506954970...ht_4132wt_1141
But, after doing some searching, I think this is the amp I'm going to use:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SA-600.4x.html
Now that I've found a good looking amp, I think I'm going to order it and sort out what I'm going to do for a sub and components. I was going to go with a 10" either Polk MM1040 or an Image Dynamics ID10V3D2, but I've since seen nice deals on Tidal Audio 12.2's and Polk MM1240's. This amp will easily power a 12", so will I lose tightness and clarity stepping up to a 12" when talking about SQ subs like these? I'm most likely going to go with the Polk MM1040, but I'd like you guys to weigh in on my other options before I pull the trigger since this thread has evolved a little more into a system build thread. Thanks.
I was going to go with the Boston Acoustics GT475 originally,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350506954970...ht_4132wt_1141
But, after doing some searching, I think this is the amp I'm going to use:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SA-600.4x.html
Now that I've found a good looking amp, I think I'm going to order it and sort out what I'm going to do for a sub and components. I was going to go with a 10" either Polk MM1040 or an Image Dynamics ID10V3D2, but I've since seen nice deals on Tidal Audio 12.2's and Polk MM1240's. This amp will easily power a 12", so will I lose tightness and clarity stepping up to a 12" when talking about SQ subs like these? I'm most likely going to go with the Polk MM1040, but I'd like you guys to weigh in on my other options before I pull the trigger since this thread has evolved a little more into a system build thread. Thanks.
Last edited by Pharmer81; 05-06-2012 at 01:07 PM.