C6 Front Door Speakers
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
C6 Front Door Speakers
Im planning to upgrade my entire System
I want to go with a bigger speaker in the doors ( Seperates ) I understand there is a company that sells the adapter plate to mount a 6" or 8" and tweeters.
What is the biggest size speaker for the rear without modifications
And what do you guys do with the speaker in the dash
I want to go with a bigger speaker in the doors ( Seperates ) I understand there is a company that sells the adapter plate to mount a 6" or 8" and tweeters.
What is the biggest size speaker for the rear without modifications
And what do you guys do with the speaker in the dash
#2
Safety Car
It'll be pretty hard to go with a bigger speaker in the door. The stock speakers in the door are a 9-10" woofer and a 3.5" mid/tweeter. when you replace the woofer in the door, you'll need some type of adapter plate to fill in the large hole, and mount whatever speaker you put in there. You could put in an 8" - as long as it's not too deep. I used an adapter plate that mounted the speaker about 1/2" off of the door, and my 8" MB Quart mid-woofer barely fit. Sorry - not sure where to get the adapter plates from. A couple of the forum vendors sell them.
Are you going to add a subwoofer in the back? One of the big problems with replacing the stock speaker is that it's hard to get anything that will fit in the stock door location and which will play low frequencies as well as the stock speaker. Replacing it with a 6.5" will definitely lose some bass. Replacing it with an 8" will get you a little closer, but then you start to lose midrange output, and meshing with a tweeter gets difficult.
I used an 8" combined with a 4" two way in the upper door location. I also added a subwoofer. The most straightforward approach is a subwoofer in the back, combined with a 6.5" two way component set in the doors.
The rears are 5.5", but they don't really help with sound quality at all. Some people like to use them to add "rear fill", but even if you do, you don't want to run much power to them, or have them play very loudly. I'd pretty much ignore them - run the stock speakers if you want. Many people disconnect the front/center speaker. I left mine hooked up, with very little power running to it.
Are you going to add a subwoofer in the back? One of the big problems with replacing the stock speaker is that it's hard to get anything that will fit in the stock door location and which will play low frequencies as well as the stock speaker. Replacing it with a 6.5" will definitely lose some bass. Replacing it with an 8" will get you a little closer, but then you start to lose midrange output, and meshing with a tweeter gets difficult.
I used an 8" combined with a 4" two way in the upper door location. I also added a subwoofer. The most straightforward approach is a subwoofer in the back, combined with a 6.5" two way component set in the doors.
The rears are 5.5", but they don't really help with sound quality at all. Some people like to use them to add "rear fill", but even if you do, you don't want to run much power to them, or have them play very loudly. I'd pretty much ignore them - run the stock speakers if you want. Many people disconnect the front/center speaker. I left mine hooked up, with very little power running to it.
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
It'll be pretty hard to go with a bigger speaker in the door. The stock speakers in the door are a 9-10" woofer and a 3.5" mid/tweeter. when you replace the woofer in the door, you'll need some type of adapter plate to fill in the large hole, and mount whatever speaker you put in there. You could put in an 8" - as long as it's not too deep. I used an adapter plate that mounted the speaker about 1/2" off of the door, and my 8" MB Quart mid-woofer barely fit. Sorry - not sure where to get the adapter plates from. A couple of the forum vendors sell them.
Are you going to add a subwoofer in the back? One of the big problems with replacing the stock speaker is that it's hard to get anything that will fit in the stock door location and which will play low frequencies as well as the stock speaker. Replacing it with a 6.5" will definitely lose some bass. Replacing it with an 8" will get you a little closer, but then you start to lose midrange output, and meshing with a tweeter gets difficult.
I used an 8" combined with a 4" two way in the upper door location. I also added a subwoofer. The most straightforward approach is a subwoofer in the back, combined with a 6.5" two way component set in the doors.
The rears are 5.5", but they don't really help with sound quality at all. Some people like to use them to add "rear fill", but even if you do, you don't want to run much power to them, or have them play very loudly. I'd pretty much ignore them - run the stock speakers if you want. Many people disconnect the front/center speaker. I left mine hooked up, with very little power running to it.
Are you going to add a subwoofer in the back? One of the big problems with replacing the stock speaker is that it's hard to get anything that will fit in the stock door location and which will play low frequencies as well as the stock speaker. Replacing it with a 6.5" will definitely lose some bass. Replacing it with an 8" will get you a little closer, but then you start to lose midrange output, and meshing with a tweeter gets difficult.
I used an 8" combined with a 4" two way in the upper door location. I also added a subwoofer. The most straightforward approach is a subwoofer in the back, combined with a 6.5" two way component set in the doors.
The rears are 5.5", but they don't really help with sound quality at all. Some people like to use them to add "rear fill", but even if you do, you don't want to run much power to them, or have them play very loudly. I'd pretty much ignore them - run the stock speakers if you want. Many people disconnect the front/center speaker. I left mine hooked up, with very little power running to it.
Thanks
Yes I am actually running 2 Subs in the Rear
I purchased a JL 6 Channel Amp, this will be enough for me
#4
Tech Contributor
Rears are actually 5.25"
You can make the adapter plates pretty easily out of 1/4" MDF. A 2'x4' sheet at Home Depot is under $6, and gives you enough to make several mistakes before getting it right
Dennis at DD sells MDF plates for under $20, or there are other harder and more moisture resistant ones available from nakidparts for $50. I used MDF in mine.
As mentioned, if you already have a sub go for amped 6.5" components in the doors. If you use them at all, I'd just let HU power the oem rears.
Center speaker can be removed, or just leave it there unplugged.
You can make the adapter plates pretty easily out of 1/4" MDF. A 2'x4' sheet at Home Depot is under $6, and gives you enough to make several mistakes before getting it right
Dennis at DD sells MDF plates for under $20, or there are other harder and more moisture resistant ones available from nakidparts for $50. I used MDF in mine.
As mentioned, if you already have a sub go for amped 6.5" components in the doors. If you use them at all, I'd just let HU power the oem rears.
Center speaker can be removed, or just leave it there unplugged.
#5
Melting Slicks
Full info on all of this can be found in the stickies at the top. I have 6.5's and 3.5 coaxes in the doors, tweets on the pillars, 5.25's & tweets comps in the rear and twin 10" subs in the trunk ...
#6
Team Owner
Thread Starter