New C6 Corvette Speaker Upgrade Packages! Double D Mods
#1
Former Vendor
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Member Since: Aug 2011
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St Jude Donor '13
New C6 Corvette Speaker Upgrade Packages! Double D Mods
New C6 Corvette Speaker Upgrade Packages!
Double D Mods
608-568-3011
JL Audio Speaker Upgrades!
JL Audio C2 Package
$219.99
Free shipping to 48 contiguous states!
This packages includes:
JL Audio C2 350X 3.5" Coax Speakers
JL Audio C2 525X 5.25" Coax Speakers
2- Metra 72-4568 Adapter Plugs
Easy install!
CLICK HERE TO ORDER
JL Audio TR Package
$169.99
Free shipping to 48 contiguous states!
This packages includes:
JL Audio TR350 CXI 3.5" Coax Speakers
JL Audio TR525 CXI 5.25" Coax Speakers
2- Metra 72-4568 Adapter Plugs
Easy install!
CLICK HERE TO ORDER
C6 Kicker Upgrade!
$79.99 + Shipping
CLICK HERE TO ORDER
QUESTIONS?
CALL OR EMAIL!
608-568-3011
devan@doubledmods.com
dennis@doubledmods.com
Double D Mods
608-568-3011
JL Audio Speaker Upgrades!
JL Audio C2 Package
$219.99
Free shipping to 48 contiguous states!
This packages includes:
JL Audio C2 350X 3.5" Coax Speakers
JL Audio C2 525X 5.25" Coax Speakers
2- Metra 72-4568 Adapter Plugs
Easy install!
CLICK HERE TO ORDER
JL Audio TR Package
$169.99
Free shipping to 48 contiguous states!
This packages includes:
JL Audio TR350 CXI 3.5" Coax Speakers
JL Audio TR525 CXI 5.25" Coax Speakers
2- Metra 72-4568 Adapter Plugs
Easy install!
CLICK HERE TO ORDER
C6 Kicker Upgrade!
$79.99 + Shipping
CLICK HERE TO ORDER
QUESTIONS?
CALL OR EMAIL!
608-568-3011
devan@doubledmods.com
dennis@doubledmods.com
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Louisville Ky NCM Lifetime Member 429 (Member Since 1993)
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '16
I have a kenwood dnx9990hd in my C6, with the factory speakers. Will the package above integrate with my unit? Does it depend upon the harness the installer used.
#3
Former Vendor
with aftermarket radio you will see more of an improvement over stock as well
#5
Former Vendor
#7
Tech Contributor
The stock speakers are just POS paper speakers, pretty much the same as what used to come in 9v battery powered AM radios. Any 2-way aftermarket speakers with dedicated tweeters will add highs to the sound that the stockers just can't come close to producing. Better (more expensive) speakers will sound a bit better, but the Kicker upgrade is about as good as it gets without doing an entire aftermarket amp/speaker/sub setup.
#8
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St Jude Donor '13
The stock speakers are just POS paper speakers, pretty much the same as what used to come in 9v battery powered AM radios. Any 2-way aftermarket speakers with dedicated tweeters will add highs to the sound that the stockers just can't come close to producing. Better (more expensive) speakers will sound a bit better, but the Kicker upgrade is about as good as it gets without doing an entire aftermarket amp/speaker/sub setup.
Thank You Mark for the reply
Devan
#9
Burning Brakes
The stock speakers are just POS paper speakers, pretty much the same as what used to come in 9v battery powered AM radios. Any 2-way aftermarket speakers with dedicated tweeters will add highs to the sound that the stockers just can't come close to producing. Better (more expensive) speakers will sound a bit better, but the Kicker upgrade is about as good as it gets without doing an entire aftermarket amp/speaker/sub setup.
#10
Tech Contributor
It depends how good your hearing is
If you're over 60 and can barely tell when the phone is ringing, then you won't notice a difference. If you're a young whippersnapper with excelent hearing, then you can probably benefit from the JL's.
The jump from Kicker to JL is much smaller than from stock to Kicker.
If you're over 60 and can barely tell when the phone is ringing, then you won't notice a difference. If you're a young whippersnapper with excelent hearing, then you can probably benefit from the JL's.
The jump from Kicker to JL is much smaller than from stock to Kicker.
#14
Do you have an install sheet / instructions? I have replaced speakers on several of my trucks before but want to be very careful with my 427. Looking for info on how to actually get to the speakers the wiring etc is no issue.
#15
Former Vendor
Just remove door panels and rear panels
use wire connectors supplied
remove old speaker
replace with new.
Its really pretty simple
Here is some more info showing the Kicker upgrade install
http://www.doubledmods.com/Installation.php
Dennis
#16
Instructor
Dennis,
Clicking on your link is extremely helpful, step by step instructions. The shoe laces on the upper door panel metal hooks, made all the difference in the world. I really got frustrated in the past in trying to get the upper door panels to hook; now just pull up on each shoe lace and it fits right into place. Then just pull the shoe lace to slide out when all are hooked.
Dennis, I do suggest you expand your instructions and pictures on the rear speakers replacement, behind the seats. When I opened the box, I thought you had made an error and included too many cable connections. There was no mention in your instructions or pictures of the same cable connections for the rear as the front door panel speakers. In fact, if you look at your $79.99 + Shipping site picture, it shows the four speakers, but only cables for the front two speakers. It became obvious once the rear speakers where removed and disconnected. You did such a good job of illustrating how to connect the cables to the front speakers, you might just mention the rears connect just like the fronts.
Rather than tie up the rear lid to something on the garage ceiling, much easier to use a cane, walking stick, long piece of wood, etc to prop up the lid inside the trunk area (just use towels to wrap either ends, so no damage to the lid or floor)
Suggest you show pictures of the clip on the lower lid support rod. On the first one I tried, I took the clip completely off - a big mistake. It was hell trying to get it back on. On the second one, I just slid it enough with a small screw driver to release the rod, but kept the clip on the rod - then it was very easy to push it back into place when finished. I could not completely remove the plastic panel over the speaker area - it wasn't because I didn't try. It was connected in too many places - the roof area, the door area. I ended up using a screw driver to prop open the rear of the panel, so I had some room to remove the speakers.
Suggest you mention the white plastic tree clip that comes out of its holder when you pull on the rear of the plastic panel that goes over the speaker area. At first I thought this white clip was permanently in place. I could not pull the cover back far enough to get it to slip over the white plastic tree clip when I was finished and was trying to put the panel back in place. Finally figured out I had to pull the clip out of its hole. It was hell to get out. Ended up using needle nosed plyers to wedge it out (has to be the most secure clip on the entire car) Then used a screw driver to straighten out the branches of the tree clip when removed, slid it into the holder and pushed the panel back into place.
[I]Now the important part. A big difference in the sound - much improved. A better value than the price. Can definitely notice high notes that were never heard before. All sounds are much much clearer. Either the base, fade, tremble, balance reset when I disconnected or I had never set these, because everything was in the Center default setting when I checked them.
Dennis, question on the big speaker in the door - I assume this is the base speaker? Does this OEM speaker work satisfactory? Is this why you don't recommend or provide replacing it as well? I am very pleased with my purchase from you - my suggestions are to help other novice "do it your self-ers" like me. Thanks.
Bruce in Arizona
QUOTE=Double D Mods;1583110334]Just remove door panels and rear panels
use wire connectors supplied
remove old speaker
replace with new.
Its really pretty simple
Here is some more info showing the Kicker upgrade install
http://www.doubledmods.com/Installation.php
Dennis[/QUOTE]
Clicking on your link is extremely helpful, step by step instructions. The shoe laces on the upper door panel metal hooks, made all the difference in the world. I really got frustrated in the past in trying to get the upper door panels to hook; now just pull up on each shoe lace and it fits right into place. Then just pull the shoe lace to slide out when all are hooked.
Dennis, I do suggest you expand your instructions and pictures on the rear speakers replacement, behind the seats. When I opened the box, I thought you had made an error and included too many cable connections. There was no mention in your instructions or pictures of the same cable connections for the rear as the front door panel speakers. In fact, if you look at your $79.99 + Shipping site picture, it shows the four speakers, but only cables for the front two speakers. It became obvious once the rear speakers where removed and disconnected. You did such a good job of illustrating how to connect the cables to the front speakers, you might just mention the rears connect just like the fronts.
Rather than tie up the rear lid to something on the garage ceiling, much easier to use a cane, walking stick, long piece of wood, etc to prop up the lid inside the trunk area (just use towels to wrap either ends, so no damage to the lid or floor)
Suggest you show pictures of the clip on the lower lid support rod. On the first one I tried, I took the clip completely off - a big mistake. It was hell trying to get it back on. On the second one, I just slid it enough with a small screw driver to release the rod, but kept the clip on the rod - then it was very easy to push it back into place when finished. I could not completely remove the plastic panel over the speaker area - it wasn't because I didn't try. It was connected in too many places - the roof area, the door area. I ended up using a screw driver to prop open the rear of the panel, so I had some room to remove the speakers.
Suggest you mention the white plastic tree clip that comes out of its holder when you pull on the rear of the plastic panel that goes over the speaker area. At first I thought this white clip was permanently in place. I could not pull the cover back far enough to get it to slip over the white plastic tree clip when I was finished and was trying to put the panel back in place. Finally figured out I had to pull the clip out of its hole. It was hell to get out. Ended up using needle nosed plyers to wedge it out (has to be the most secure clip on the entire car) Then used a screw driver to straighten out the branches of the tree clip when removed, slid it into the holder and pushed the panel back into place.
[I]Now the important part. A big difference in the sound - much improved. A better value than the price. Can definitely notice high notes that were never heard before. All sounds are much much clearer. Either the base, fade, tremble, balance reset when I disconnected or I had never set these, because everything was in the Center default setting when I checked them.
Dennis, question on the big speaker in the door - I assume this is the base speaker? Does this OEM speaker work satisfactory? Is this why you don't recommend or provide replacing it as well? I am very pleased with my purchase from you - my suggestions are to help other novice "do it your self-ers" like me. Thanks.
Bruce in Arizona
QUOTE=Double D Mods;1583110334]Just remove door panels and rear panels
use wire connectors supplied
remove old speaker
replace with new.
Its really pretty simple
Here is some more info showing the Kicker upgrade install
http://www.doubledmods.com/Installation.php
Dennis[/QUOTE]