clyjr

Hey guys, I think I've decided I'm going to go with the Parrot Asteroid SMART to replace my non bose head unit in my 2013 1LT coupe. So, I've been trying to figure out what adapters I need but have gotten confused.

So far, I think I need the following:
Metra 40-GM10 antenna adapter
Metra 95-3304 Double DIN install kit

now, for the chimes and onstar I've gotten confused. I though I needed a GMOS-04, but then I ran into a thread saying I needed a OS-2C, etc... I'm trying to get everything on amazon if possible since I get quick shipping with my prime account, but it's hard to find the correct things on amazon as there are 100s of results for OS-2C.

Can you guys help me out and let me know what adapters I need to retain the chimes, I'm ok with losing onstar unless it's a matter of just getting a different adapter.

Thanks guys

markcz

You need the antenna adapter and dash kit regardless, but you'll have to make a decision about onstar before buying the interface adapter.

If you do NOT want to keep onstar, the C2R-GM24 is by far the best choice. This kit has everything you'd need.

If you want to KEEP onstar, since you have a '13 you'll have to stay away from the PAC harnesses, GM changed something in '11 that causes them to have noise issues. The GMOS-04 is one of the options.

You'll need a separate adapter to retain the steering wheel controls, but that part is dependant on your radio, not so much the car.

clyjr

Is it better to lose the OnStar and use the gm24 adapter? From looking around online it seems that more people have whining and sound issues when trying to keep onstar.

clyjr

mark, I decided to go with the gm24 adapter and have another question.
In the instructions of the C2R-GM24 (found online) it mentions that you need to install a relay for the power. Is this correct, or is it outdated?
thanks again

markcz

You don't need a relay with the Pac. Connect the blue 'remote amp' wire straight to the wire at B3 of the big plug attached to the interface (wire is white on car harness, it should be blue on the interface side).

Also, you have about a 50/50 chance of having noise with an aftermarket HU, a pair of GLI's usually helps.

clyjr

Thanks for the help, I have a buddy that has some ground loop isolators if I need them. I'll follow up and let you guys know how it works out.

clyjr

An update, I got the asteroid smart installed saturday in my 2013.
So far so good, I have the smart rooted and put google maps/navigation, tasker, play store, etc on it. I have torque but I need to get a new bluetooth obd reader, accidentally left the old one in my last car when I traded it.

I've setup tasker to start pandora and google navigation when the smart gets a wifi connection, also attempting to automatically switch to the tuner if it loses wifi. It switches to the music app, but not the tuner right now.

I didn't install the GLI's. I do have a barely noticeable low hum if you are in accessory mode listening to the radio. I don't hear the hum or any other issues when the car is running, and definitely no alternator whine. I'm thinking the hum is coming from the GM24 adapter, but not sure and probably won't mess with it since you can't even hear it when the car is running.

FYI, the cigarette lighter on a 2013 is easy to remove now with one hand, guess they changed that since the earlier models (looking at other writeups saying it was a pain to remove).

Also, my console lid doesn't latch as easily now, I have to push it down to latch. I lined everything up correctly but there is a little adjustment you can make if you loosen the screws and adjust the lid. Any tips on how to get it lined up better?

markcz

Remove the armrest cover (or open/close it to get everything else done), pull off the e-brake boot, loosen the screws holding the plastic part of the console about one turn each, loosen the two screws at the very front lip of the inside part (next to cig lighter socket) about one turn (loose enough to allow the console to slide up/down). With screws loose use left hand to push most of your weight onto console right next to TC/AH button, while pushing down use other hand to tighten screws by cig lighter socket, tighten side screws, replace lid

clyjr

Thanks for the console tip, closes perfect now.

I added some isolators and don't have any hum at all now, but I do have a thump when the amp turns off. Any idea how I can fix that? When I turn off the car and open the door I don't have a thump, but it does thump 5 or 10 minutes later...

I'm also trying to get a joycon exr setup for the steering wheel controls but haven't figured it out yet. I saw another thread where someone has it working with a tablet. They mentioned adding some resistors, I posted on that thread so hopefully they will respond.

clyjr

Another note, my car is a 2013. No idea why I typed 2012 when I created the thread...