So it looks like I am upgrading my stock radio
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
So it looks like I am upgrading my stock radio
A few years ago I traded in my truck for a 2007 corvette for a DD (same insurance, better gas mileage, 65% more awesome). My wife wasn't pleased that 07 didnt have an ipod input. Then my wife's company got bought by best buy. The merger never made sense, but hey, cheap stuffz for me. Anyway Best Buy has sold her company and we are losing the employee discount. So I have to hurry and buy everything that I had ever planned on buying pretty quick.
Margins are surprisingly high on car audio while margins on consumer home electronics are pretty low.
So anyway, the plan so far is:
Head Unit: Kenwood DNX570HD
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...ation/DNX570HD
Amp: Alpine PDX-V9
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9/
Door Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-60c/
Rear Speakers: Alpine SPR-50
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-50/
Sub and Subbox: Madvette passenger side with JL Audio 10w3 4ohm
http://www.corvettecaraudio.com/c6-s...vette-sub-box/
Wiring Harness: PAC G2C-GM24
Dash Plate: Metra 95-3304
Big 3 Kit: Top Post Kit from Saccity Corvettes
http://www.saccitycorvette.com/Big-3.html
Amp Kit: Metra 4awg kit
Speaker Wire: 4x Metra 12awg 20'
(there is some 12awg speaker wire in the amp kit)
Antenna Adapter: Metra 40-GM10
Ipod Kit: kca-ip202 (kenwood accessory, no link sorry)
So thoughts:
my audio engineering design/criteria is always 85Db + 20Db peak room + head room. 85Db is about as loud as you can get for sustained periods of time without hearing damage, and it is pretty loud. 105Db can be listened to for about an hour cumulative over a 24 hour period.
This criteria had the following implications:
1.) Front speakers being 1.1M away from their respective seat meant that a speaker with 88Db sensivity would need ~61 watts
2.) Rear speakers being ~.5M from their respective seat with a sensitivity of 87Db requires ~16 watts.
3.) The subwoofer at ~85 sensitivity requires ~250watts, as it is 1.4M from the driver seat.
4.) I probably could have looked around and found a 4x60watt+1x250watt amp, but I wouldn't have had any amp headroom. As it is I am only getting 2-4Db of headroom, so its kind of pushing the limits.
This leaves some headroom in the amp, and should keep my sustained total draw to 60+60+20+20+250=410watts in an amp that is 80% efficient means that I will be pulling 512.5 watts on the eletrical system or approximated 36 Amps, when listening as loud as is safe (I already have some tinnitus, I don't need more).
I was planning on getting the Alpine INE-W940, but when I arrived to pick it up, I was told there was a nationwide recall, and the car audio manager recommended the kenwood as a replacement. Which after I found a manual online with a wiring diagram, made me happy as there is no foot brake wire which means that I don't need a TRC-7 to manage the brakes.
Other design items:
The amp has 4awg wire connectors and the manual indicates that only 4awg will fit.
The SacCity Big 3 kit is also 4awg wire, and I hope it will be sufficient.
The speaker connectors have an 8awg-16awg wire terminals. The line loss for the front and rear speakers is under .2Db, unfortunately, the line loss to the subwoofer is much higher, as we are pushing upto 500w through the wire. Ultimately I wasn't sure if larger guage wire would fit in the terminals of the MadVette sub box, and thought well screw it, its not that big a deal.
Placement:
I intend to put the amp under the passenger seat like in some of the pics in the system thread sticky, the Bluetooth microphone up in the corner right below the sun visor like a pretty slick picture I saw.
Open Questions:
1.) Grounding the amp: I see pictures grounded to one of the seat bolts, is that advisable?
2.) Dash illumination: I take it that there is a gray wire connecting to the button near my center console glove box that is a good spot for center illumination
3.) Parking Brake: I am going to assume that there is a switch on my parking brake.
4.) I am not quite sure how the G2C-GM24 actually works..... Right now it seems like convienent cable adapter with a funny box on it. If someone could explain how it works I would be super happy.
5.) Am I fundamentally missing anything? I know I will need some small electrical connectors for the speakers, and I think a tool for removing the interior bits, and some fasteners.
6.) For the people with amps under the seats, did you fasten it all the way through the floor pan with some sealer or just through the carpet?
Wiring Diagram to come, I have to do some work for the people who pay my mortgage.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Update 1: Wiring Diagram
Margins are surprisingly high on car audio while margins on consumer home electronics are pretty low.
So anyway, the plan so far is:
Head Unit: Kenwood DNX570HD
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...ation/DNX570HD
Amp: Alpine PDX-V9
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9/
Door Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-60c/
Rear Speakers: Alpine SPR-50
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-50/
Sub and Subbox: Madvette passenger side with JL Audio 10w3 4ohm
http://www.corvettecaraudio.com/c6-s...vette-sub-box/
Wiring Harness: PAC G2C-GM24
Dash Plate: Metra 95-3304
Big 3 Kit: Top Post Kit from Saccity Corvettes
http://www.saccitycorvette.com/Big-3.html
Amp Kit: Metra 4awg kit
Speaker Wire: 4x Metra 12awg 20'
(there is some 12awg speaker wire in the amp kit)
Antenna Adapter: Metra 40-GM10
Ipod Kit: kca-ip202 (kenwood accessory, no link sorry)
So thoughts:
my audio engineering design/criteria is always 85Db + 20Db peak room + head room. 85Db is about as loud as you can get for sustained periods of time without hearing damage, and it is pretty loud. 105Db can be listened to for about an hour cumulative over a 24 hour period.
This criteria had the following implications:
1.) Front speakers being 1.1M away from their respective seat meant that a speaker with 88Db sensivity would need ~61 watts
2.) Rear speakers being ~.5M from their respective seat with a sensitivity of 87Db requires ~16 watts.
3.) The subwoofer at ~85 sensitivity requires ~250watts, as it is 1.4M from the driver seat.
4.) I probably could have looked around and found a 4x60watt+1x250watt amp, but I wouldn't have had any amp headroom. As it is I am only getting 2-4Db of headroom, so its kind of pushing the limits.
This leaves some headroom in the amp, and should keep my sustained total draw to 60+60+20+20+250=410watts in an amp that is 80% efficient means that I will be pulling 512.5 watts on the eletrical system or approximated 36 Amps, when listening as loud as is safe (I already have some tinnitus, I don't need more).
I was planning on getting the Alpine INE-W940, but when I arrived to pick it up, I was told there was a nationwide recall, and the car audio manager recommended the kenwood as a replacement. Which after I found a manual online with a wiring diagram, made me happy as there is no foot brake wire which means that I don't need a TRC-7 to manage the brakes.
Other design items:
The amp has 4awg wire connectors and the manual indicates that only 4awg will fit.
The SacCity Big 3 kit is also 4awg wire, and I hope it will be sufficient.
The speaker connectors have an 8awg-16awg wire terminals. The line loss for the front and rear speakers is under .2Db, unfortunately, the line loss to the subwoofer is much higher, as we are pushing upto 500w through the wire. Ultimately I wasn't sure if larger guage wire would fit in the terminals of the MadVette sub box, and thought well screw it, its not that big a deal.
Placement:
I intend to put the amp under the passenger seat like in some of the pics in the system thread sticky, the Bluetooth microphone up in the corner right below the sun visor like a pretty slick picture I saw.
Open Questions:
1.) Grounding the amp: I see pictures grounded to one of the seat bolts, is that advisable?
2.) Dash illumination: I take it that there is a gray wire connecting to the button near my center console glove box that is a good spot for center illumination
3.) Parking Brake: I am going to assume that there is a switch on my parking brake.
4.) I am not quite sure how the G2C-GM24 actually works..... Right now it seems like convienent cable adapter with a funny box on it. If someone could explain how it works I would be super happy.
5.) Am I fundamentally missing anything? I know I will need some small electrical connectors for the speakers, and I think a tool for removing the interior bits, and some fasteners.
6.) For the people with amps under the seats, did you fasten it all the way through the floor pan with some sealer or just through the carpet?
Wiring Diagram to come, I have to do some work for the people who pay my mortgage.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Update 1: Wiring Diagram
Last edited by Guru_4_hire; 01-28-2014 at 01:55 PM.
#2
Tech Contributor
Open Questions:
1.) Grounding the amp: I see pictures grounded to one of the seat bolts, is that advisable?
2.) Dash illumination: I take it that there is a gray wire connecting to the button near my center console glove box that is a good spot for center illumination
3.) Parking Brake: I am going to assume that there is a switch on my parking brake.
4.) I am not quite sure how the G2C-GM24 actually works..... Right now it seems like convienent cable adapter with a funny box on it. If someone could explain how it works I would be super happy.
5.) Am I fundamentally missing anything? I know I will need some small electrical connectors for the speakers, and I think a tool for removing the interior bits, and some fasteners.
6.) For the people with amps under the seats, did you fasten it all the way through the floor pan with some sealer or just through the carpet?
Wiring Diagram to come, I have to do some work for the people who pay my mortgage.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
1.) Grounding the amp: I see pictures grounded to one of the seat bolts, is that advisable?
2.) Dash illumination: I take it that there is a gray wire connecting to the button near my center console glove box that is a good spot for center illumination
3.) Parking Brake: I am going to assume that there is a switch on my parking brake.
4.) I am not quite sure how the G2C-GM24 actually works..... Right now it seems like convienent cable adapter with a funny box on it. If someone could explain how it works I would be super happy.
5.) Am I fundamentally missing anything? I know I will need some small electrical connectors for the speakers, and I think a tool for removing the interior bits, and some fasteners.
6.) For the people with amps under the seats, did you fasten it all the way through the floor pan with some sealer or just through the carpet?
Wiring Diagram to come, I have to do some work for the people who pay my mortgage.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
2 - gray/black wire to TC/AH button
3 - assuming nothing has changed, on Kenwoods connect the HU 'parking brake' wire to ground, forget about the actual brake wire
4 - the box listens in on car's serial data line to produce all chimes and provide switched power to turn radio on/off
5 - nothing obvious to me
6 - amp under seat is a TIGHT fit in C6, not much room for anything more than attaching it to the carpet
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
1 - seat bolt is fine, but there's a factory ground bolt on wall behind seat, near side of car, about a foot up from floor
2 - gray/black wire to TC/AH button
3 - assuming nothing has changed, on Kenwoods connect the HU 'parking brake' wire to ground, forget about the actual brake wire
4 - the box listens in on car's serial data line to produce all chimes and provide switched power to turn radio on/off
5 - nothing obvious to me
6 - amp under seat is a TIGHT fit in C6, not much room for anything more than attaching it to the carpet
2 - gray/black wire to TC/AH button
3 - assuming nothing has changed, on Kenwoods connect the HU 'parking brake' wire to ground, forget about the actual brake wire
4 - the box listens in on car's serial data line to produce all chimes and provide switched power to turn radio on/off
5 - nothing obvious to me
6 - amp under seat is a TIGHT fit in C6, not much room for anything more than attaching it to the carpet
4 - OH the device itself produces the chime sound and isn't injecting it into the signal flow somehow. No wonder I was so confused....
6 - yeah I had to get out my trusty tape measure and find a book that was about the same size and shove it under the seat to see what happened.
Thanks!
Another random question, where are GPS antennas getting put? I was thinking where the old 3.5" speaker was.
#6
Former Vendor
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
That is super attractive Dennis, but I just want one sub, so unfortunately that isn't the product for me. I did just order your sound deadening kit though.
I wish I could see more pics of it, just out of prurient interest.
I wish I could see more pics of it, just out of prurient interest.
Last edited by Guru_4_hire; 01-29-2014 at 08:21 AM.