IRON MAIDEN

Yes, new battery, The Big 3(4 actually), and a high output alt. The alt will come later. Sooner if the system clearly struggles.

racebum

i kinda doubt it will, seems more likely to wind up with a dead battery and a car that won't start if you're blasting away for awhile

oh well, you have a 6spd

IRON MAIDEN

Got my 3sixty.3 remote and PG voltage display mounted. Whipped it up out of a plastic straight edge. It's a temp solution to get me going. Want to see how it feels and works before having a nice one made. I tossed a couple toggles in for the amp rack LEDs and maybe a fan switch. Although I think I need 2 toggles for the LEDs and maybe a fan speed controller. Once I have it all figured out, will dial in the pattern, arrangement of it all and send it to Austin Barrett and have him make me a sick cnc'd billet piece. He made my Z51 badges and they turned out sweet. But for a quick fix, it will work for now. Even this piece covered in some thin black suede wouldn't be bad.

IRON MAIDEN

Finished off the Luxury Liner Pro on the passenger side. Replaced the factory matting on the inside of the carpet with the Overkill Pro like I did on the drivers side, and got the carpet back in. Shocking how much treatment I was able to put under the carpet. Excited to hear the difference it makes. Should be night and day.
There's some more stuff to run, like speaker wire, but I want to get the car driving again and work on it from there.
Also got the headunit mount wired up and ready to mount. Not sure where to pull the power from so that it's controlled by the dimmer.

IRON MAIDEN

Today was brutal. !00 at least. Decided to get the car back together so I can start driving it again. Need to order my speaker wire, an optical for future proofing, an RJ9 cable for my voltage display, figure out my acc relay system and get it ordered... still a bunch of stuff to run but I will do it later. I at least wanted to get the front together so I can drive so I tried to put the head unit in.
Guess I never checked it! :o :behead:
No way it was fitting. It was hitting the upper brace. Thought only the double din crowd had to remove the brace???? So, in the 100+ heat, I struggled getting the brace out. My sawsall had a dull blade. To frustrated to go up and get more. Tried a hand held hacksaw. Nope! About 15 different drill bits!!! What the F are those rivets made of??? I drilled out about 60 frame rivits on my 46' International Harvester and don't think I got this frustrated! And they were far worse. But it came out. All is great in the world.




So all good so I thought. Radio still won't slide all the way in! There is this damn plastic hook holding the climate control vacumn lines. Off with the hook!!! Should be good to go after that right?!?!

IRON MAIDEN

So it just so happens that the F'n JVC headunit I have has one of it's harnesses coming out of the upper edge of the backside and it happened to hit right where that hook was. Well it still hits even when the hook is removed! The damn receiver is just too man long.
I can snug it up to the back wall enough to bolt in place, but the pressure forces the back of the unit downward which angles the face of it up. No way that will flush up to the center console. So I stuck a piece of 1/8" steel across two of the side openings which happened to be exactly where it needs to be! The sun was shining on me! Hot as heck but I'll take it. I put some CCF on the top for the back of the unit to sit on and it positions it perfect. When I finish off the wiring, I will reposition the original top brace back in to support the head unit. At least now I know how it will fit and sit perfect with the console.






Need to replace the two toggles, one already broke.

IRON MAIDEN

So, I'm gonna go with the new PPI P.65C3 3-ways. I really wanted 3-ways in this system and it's not gonna happen with the Kickers I have. So the PPI's are in my budget and I really want to try the AMT tweeters.

So here is what I'm working with. Here's some quick cardboard mock-ups.
First is with the midrange/tweet up in the A-pillars. In this position, I should easily be able to aim them any direction needed for on or off axis. Midbass in the doors.






My other option is with the Mid/woof's in the doors, tweets alone up top. If I squeeze the midrange into the upper forward corner, my knees don't block them. Passenger has sight but it's through the steering wheel.
The tweets could go pretty much anywhere on the pillars. If I go this route, I'm thinking some spheres. Maybe either way.

racebum

do some temp mock ups for the tweeters on the pillars and see if you like the sound. sometimes having them that close and pointed right at you can make them a bit too forward. then again in the factory locations they wind up being a bit dark

i'd experiment before you go permanent

IRON MAIDEN

I'm planning to. I ended up ordering the new Precision Power 3-ways. I figure I will play with them off axis as that is where the AMT are claimed to shine. I'm gonna toss in the Kicker silk domes as well to see which ones I like better. I have the 3sixty.3 so tweaking won't be a problem.

IRON MAIDEN

Love coming home from work and finding presents on the porch!!!

racebum

post up what you think of those, i know the power class speakers are cheap on ebay, have been curious if they are any good, never have heard them

couple i have recently played with are the jl audio c2's kind of quiet, mellow soft sounding speakers but they can't produce a lot of spl

morel tempo. absolutely love these, remind me of the energy veritas speakers i have in my house. very lively, sound like they should cost more than they do

IRON MAIDEN

I have Veritas as well. I had a home theater business for close to 10 years and that was one of my brands. I had most of the Veritas line in and out of my system. I ended up with the 2.2i's and they are still going strong.

IRON MAIDEN

Started on some tweeter spheres. They will either be mounted with slight stand-offs on the a-pillars or I will build in eye sockets into the a-pillars so that the spheres mount in the pillars and rotate like an eyeball.

racebum

that's unique

folded motion tweeters in a car

hmm...let us know how that sounds. martin logan has had great luck with that design in the home

IRON MAIDEN

They are based off the Heil Air Motion Transformer tweeters. I had to try them. All the times I went to CES and Cedia, it's always been the ribbon and other exotic speakers that I loved. But couldn't afford.
I have a good friend in Vegas who has been an crazed audiophile since the 70's. He has a the Carver Amazing Platinum speakers. 56" ribbons and are some of the finest speakers ever. Amazing is in their name for a reason.
So what Veritas do you have?

racebum

the v52c center and a pair of cf50 towers, i really didn't like the 6.5" towers and went to the standard connoisseur line that used triple 5.25s for the towers, have some of their in wall 6.5" coaxes in the wall for the rear all ran of a marantz 5006

the part of my system i love the most is the sub. used a peerless xxls 12 in a 3cuft ported box with a bash 300s amp. the box i shot the exact same color as my z06 so i have this gloss black basecoat clearcoat sub that looks and sounds just bad ***. i grew up close to the lead engineer of phoenix gold {glenn phillips} when i was younger and learned quite a bit from that guy. one of these days i'm going to do a car system with a cyclone. you ever see one of those subs? they are an air compression driver, really exotic. has an fs of 10hz and is roughly 10x more efficient than a typical subwoofer. that means 300 watts sounds like 3000 in output. ever see one of these?

IRON MAIDEN

Yes. Of coarse I've seen them. Exotic doesn't give it credit! Very cool if that is yours. I had a chance to get one new for $600 a few years ago and thought about putting it into a sonotube for a home sub. Not sure if you are familiar with the sonotube subs or not. Always thought it would be a unique and very explosive home theater sub. I ended up buying a 15" Diamond Audio TDX sub to use for my home theater. Using a Velodyne amp to run it. Used to power it with a nice Crown amp until it crapped out on me.
I'm still running a Parasound Halo C2 pre/pro and an Earthquake Sound Cinenova Grande amplifier. I use an Oppo bluray for movies. A Toshiba SD-9200 as a cd player into my Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista Tube Dac for music duty.

racebum

not my cyclone but i do know where i can get one. i've heard the crowns are basically go-to sub amps for guys running multiple drivers in their system, the power per dollar is stellar

i've always loved parasound. the high end hca amps always reminded me of threshold rip offs for a lot less money. the hca3500 is just a beast

IRON MAIDEN

I'm still rocking my Halo for a reason ; )
Have you ever seen the Cinenova Grande amps? 140lbs! I got a deal on mine at CES years ago. It was basically a buy one, get one free. I had a client who wanted one so I gave him his at my cost and I got mine free ; ) My UPS guy was so pist at me when he lugged out two huge wooden military looking crates out the back of his truck. I work for UPS as well so I knew his pain!

And yes, Crown amps are the bomb. I got one on trade and it didn't last me more than 2 years or so. I had a Velodyne Digital Drive sub that a customer blew out of warranty. Sold him another sub and kept his blown one for parts. That's the amp I'm using now.

IRON MAIDEN

Actually have some free time to work on this. 93* out. So while hot, it's not scorching like it has been in NorCal.
Been since 02' when I last worked with fiberglass. This should be interesting. First mistake of the day. Forgot to grab a bunch of chip brushes!!! So off to HF. Need a cheap drill anyway. My last Dewalt battery crapped out so I don't have use of my drill, skill saw, or sawsall. Batteries are $80. BS! I will end up buying a new drill and get the battery that way.
So the project is to try to fit and angle both the 6.5" midbass and the 3" mid so that I have direct site of all 4 drivers through the grilles on the door panels.
The opposite door panel from the side you are sitting on, you have a full view of the entire baffle. No problems. But the near door panel, the steep angle blocks the upper portion of the baffle from both sight and from the speaker grille. The 3" midrange will simply be blocked. You can still see the 6.5" through the grille.
So, I will need to have the 3" partially floating over the 6.5" so that I can see both drivers. I will bring the 3" mids out as close to the grille and angled up and back towards the seats. To do so it will kind of overhang the 6.5" midbass. Not sure what that will do to the midbass frequencies. But...... Whipped out the baffles and rings last weekend. The rings I made from 2 layers of 3/8" mdf glued together. I'm gonna use some wood dowels and hot glue to position the rings on the baffles. Then glass over that. The 3" will be enclosed in it's own chamber on the baffle. The midbass will be open into the door.
Went to Taps Plastic and picked up the supplies. A yard of Grade A weave. A yard of chopped mat. And I already had a roll of 4" weave. I should have bought more for the sub enclosures but will get it if I need it.
Anyone ever use this resin before?