C6 non-Bose door speaker replacemecent WO amp
01-30-2015, 05:53 AM
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C6 non-Bose door speaker replacemecent WO amp
Hi guys,
I've read a lot of threads and now I'm confused.
I wanted to replace the door speakers in my non Bose C6. Now I've read about an external Amp etc.
I planned a straight swap, aftermarket HU is powering the stock speakers, when I look through the grilles there is no 3.5" twiddler behind, is this the case for a non bose?
Can I replace the stock woofer and the (possibly existing) twiddler with an 6.5" system w. tweeter and crossover wo. using an external amp?
Keep in mind, non Bose
Thanks guys!
I've read a lot of threads and now I'm confused.
I wanted to replace the door speakers in my non Bose C6. Now I've read about an external Amp etc.
I planned a straight swap, aftermarket HU is powering the stock speakers, when I look through the grilles there is no 3.5" twiddler behind, is this the case for a non bose?
Can I replace the stock woofer and the (possibly existing) twiddler with an 6.5" system w. tweeter and crossover wo. using an external amp?
Keep in mind, non Bose
Thanks guys!
01-31-2015, 03:33 AM
#2
Tech Contributor
Even non-Bose has an external amp in C6.
Door speakers should be 6.5" and 3.5" in each door, both normal 4ohm speakers. 6.5 is down by floor level, 3.5 is way up at the top.
You could swap in a new component set, and it would work fine, but the stock amp (or any aftermarket radios internal amp) doesn't really put out enough power to make it sound like it should. Volume may actually go down.
Swapping just the 3.5's for a 4ohm 2-way set would give cleaner highs at a fraction of the cost.
Door speakers should be 6.5" and 3.5" in each door, both normal 4ohm speakers. 6.5 is down by floor level, 3.5 is way up at the top.
You could swap in a new component set, and it would work fine, but the stock amp (or any aftermarket radios internal amp) doesn't really put out enough power to make it sound like it should. Volume may actually go down.
Swapping just the 3.5's for a 4ohm 2-way set would give cleaner highs at a fraction of the cost.
02-01-2015, 01:28 PM
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If I understand it correctly this means no sense connecting my compo due to the fact that the stock amp has an active crossover which for sure has the wrong frequencies for the low/midrange and the tweeter combination, right?
02-02-2015, 09:21 AM
#4
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If you already have the component set you can experiment with a few setups.
I would guess that the best sounding would be a direct swap of 6 for 6 (without the crossover), combined with replacing the stock 3.5 with the component tweeter set using the crossovers to filter signal going to the tweets.
Or try normal component wiring (one source to crossover supplying both speakers), but test it to see if sub signal or twiddler signal gives the best sound.
I doubt it would, but it could end up sounding best stock
I would guess that the best sounding would be a direct swap of 6 for 6 (without the crossover), combined with replacing the stock 3.5 with the component tweeter set using the crossovers to filter signal going to the tweets.
Or try normal component wiring (one source to crossover supplying both speakers), but test it to see if sub signal or twiddler signal gives the best sound.
I doubt it would, but it could end up sounding best stock
02-02-2015, 09:33 AM
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Thanks dude!
But if there's an Amp that powers both door speakers independantly, it's usual that an active crossover is filtering the signals.
In this case wrong frequencies would reach the door, or?
But if there's an Amp that powers both door speakers independantly, it's usual that an active crossover is filtering the signals.
In this case wrong frequencies would reach the door, or?
02-02-2015, 04:34 PM
#6
Previous owner of my '11 GS tried components on stock amp and it sounds pretty $#itty! He cut one of the stock wires and ran it to the crossover, then ran new wires to the tweet and woofer from the crossover. I'm curious if it would work better if you just used factory wires and put the tweet to replace the 3.5 and mid to replace the factory woofer and not use a crossover at all. The way he did mine, there is almost zero mid bass and bass. Sounds flat, like an old 80s factory setup! Really should have made the dealer fix it before I bought the car, that's what I get for not trying the radio out, haha!
02-02-2015, 09:52 PM
#7
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Previous owner of my '11 GS tried components on stock amp and it sounds pretty $#itty! He cut one of the stock wires and ran it to the crossover, then ran new wires to the tweet and woofer from the crossover. I'm curious if it would work better if you just used factory wires and put the tweet to replace the 3.5 and mid to replace the factory woofer and not use a crossover at all. The way he did mine, there is almost zero mid bass and bass. Sounds flat, like an old 80s factory setup! Really should have made the dealer fix it before I bought the car, that's what I get for not trying the radio out, haha!
Do you already have an aftermarket HU, or still stock? Either way, there are small aftermarket amps available that will do what you desire and can fit in the stock amp location
02-10-2015, 08:51 AM
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A few reasons for this. To sound good, most component sets require more power than stock amp can supply. Add to this the way it was connected, if crossover is being used on 1 of the 2 original speaker lines, then the crossover will be reducing power even more.
The crossovers in the stock amp should easily overlap the frequencies of the component crossover. If you connect the stock woofer wires directly to the component 6", and connect the stock twiddler wires to the crossovers to feed the new tweeters, then that should get your component speakers sounding as good as possible without a more powerful amp.
Do you already have an aftermarket HU, or still stock? Either way, there are small aftermarket amps available that will do what you desire and can fit in the stock amp location
The crossovers in the stock amp should easily overlap the frequencies of the component crossover. If you connect the stock woofer wires directly to the component 6", and connect the stock twiddler wires to the crossovers to feed the new tweeters, then that should get your component speakers sounding as good as possible without a more powerful amp.
Do you already have an aftermarket HU, or still stock? Either way, there are small aftermarket amps available that will do what you desire and can fit in the stock amp location
To be one the safe side I will just replace the 3.5 and leave the rest as it is. The safest way is to have an external amp and then go for the compo. For the time being I'm going to invest the money for an amp in performance, so it is now a far future project
12-13-2015, 08:21 PM
#9
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Even non-Bose has an external amp in C6.
Door speakers should be 6.5" and 3.5" in each door, both normal 4ohm speakers. 6.5 is down by floor level, 3.5 is way up at the top.
You could swap in a new component set, and it would work fine, but the stock amp (or any aftermarket radios internal amp) doesn't really put out enough power to make it sound like it should. Volume may actually go down.
Swapping just the 3.5's for a 4ohm 2-way set would give cleaner highs at a fraction of the cost.
Door speakers should be 6.5" and 3.5" in each door, both normal 4ohm speakers. 6.5 is down by floor level, 3.5 is way up at the top.
You could swap in a new component set, and it would work fine, but the stock amp (or any aftermarket radios internal amp) doesn't really put out enough power to make it sound like it should. Volume may actually go down.
Swapping just the 3.5's for a 4ohm 2-way set would give cleaner highs at a fraction of the cost.
02-26-2018, 05:27 PM
#10
This is incorrect. Each door in a C6 has one of the following in each door for the larger speakers. Non-BOSE equipped C6's come with an 8" woofer in each door. A BOSE equipped C6 comes with a 10" BOSE woofer in each door with each speaker having its own extra amp built right onto the speaker.