Sub in rear hole
#1
Sub in rear hole
Hi everyone,
Deciding which sub/box route to go...
Can I make up a top MDF piece to sit slightly below the center compartment hatch and then drop a 10" sub into that, or do I need to make a entire box? Would a good seal on this top piece be good enough or will the carpet below baffle the sound?
Alternatively I'm thinking of just getting a 10" sub and making a decent size box to just go in the trunk. I know it'll take up a fair amount of space but I personally never really use the trunk that much anyway so it's not a problem. I do prefer the clean install, but don't want to be putting a complete box into the center cubby.
Also would replacing the standard front door speakers provide much more punch? Can you replace them and still use the Bose amp that powered the original ones, if so will they be powerful enough for a aftermarket unit?
Thoughts?
Deciding which sub/box route to go...
Can I make up a top MDF piece to sit slightly below the center compartment hatch and then drop a 10" sub into that, or do I need to make a entire box? Would a good seal on this top piece be good enough or will the carpet below baffle the sound?
Alternatively I'm thinking of just getting a 10" sub and making a decent size box to just go in the trunk. I know it'll take up a fair amount of space but I personally never really use the trunk that much anyway so it's not a problem. I do prefer the clean install, but don't want to be putting a complete box into the center cubby.
Also would replacing the standard front door speakers provide much more punch? Can you replace them and still use the Bose amp that powered the original ones, if so will they be powerful enough for a aftermarket unit?
Thoughts?
#2
Tech Contributor
C5, right
You really need the entire box to have it work properly, DIY box plans HERE, or pre-made boxes HERE. VetteNuts even has a sale right now for corner boxes if you don't want to use the center tub.
Be sure to properly match the sub specs with your amp capabilities.
Just a speaker swap in front doesn't do much. Best bang-for-bucks combo is a sub in back and components in front, all powered from a single 4-channel amp with ch 3/4 bridged to the sub. Or get new rears also and use a 5-ch amp.
You really need the entire box to have it work properly, DIY box plans HERE, or pre-made boxes HERE. VetteNuts even has a sale right now for corner boxes if you don't want to use the center tub.
Be sure to properly match the sub specs with your amp capabilities.
Just a speaker swap in front doesn't do much. Best bang-for-bucks combo is a sub in back and components in front, all powered from a single 4-channel amp with ch 3/4 bridged to the sub. Or get new rears also and use a 5-ch amp.
#5
Yes, C5!
And as a student I am stuck for money so trying to make everything as cheap as possible. I'm good with wood and have made a box before, was just wondering if they were 100% necessary for the hole or not... Would the Sub perform that much worse without a box to being just dropped in place...I'm guessing no one's done that.
I would also rather keep everything as clean as possible so I can revert it back to standard in the near future. I'm thinking just a separate box that can fit inside the trunk
And as a student I am stuck for money so trying to make everything as cheap as possible. I'm good with wood and have made a box before, was just wondering if they were 100% necessary for the hole or not... Would the Sub perform that much worse without a box to being just dropped in place...I'm guessing no one's done that.
I would also rather keep everything as clean as possible so I can revert it back to standard in the near future. I'm thinking just a separate box that can fit inside the trunk
#6
Tech Contributor
You can try to just attach a flat wood piece to the tub, but it's not exactly a smooth surface, and the seal would have to be pretty strong to keep it air tight without popping loose. RTV should work, but you'd have to use a good bit and remove the carpet to put it on the plastic body panel. Also make sure that the RTV is completely dry before mounting the sub on the wood.
I have a few extra amps and speakers sitting around collecting dust that I'd be willing to give you a pretty good deal on. If you're interested send me a PM with your zip so I can figure out shipping costs
I have a few extra amps and speakers sitting around collecting dust that I'd be willing to give you a pretty good deal on. If you're interested send me a PM with your zip so I can figure out shipping costs
#7
You can try to just attach a flat wood piece to the tub, but it's not exactly a smooth surface, and the seal would have to be pretty strong to keep it air tight without popping loose. RTV should work, but you'd have to use a good bit and remove the carpet to put it on the plastic body panel. Also make sure that the RTV is completely dry before mounting the sub on the wood. I have a few extra amps and speakers sitting around collecting dust that I'd be willing to give you a pretty good deal on. If you're interested send me a PM with your zip so I can figure out shipping costs
#8
Racer
I just finished this over the weekend. Started off with one of these a Plye 500 watt 10 inch base tube.
Removed both ends and used 3/4 particle board. Cut hole to fit the amp and speaker. Board is 11 1/2 inches wide and 22 1/2 inch long. Covered with black vinyl. measured where the board will set and seal all the way around the tub. Then on each side of the tub used 1/8 X 1 inch aluminum angle iron to make a ledge put Velcro on the angle iron and along the edges of the underside of the board with the speaker and amp. Did some rewiring so all the connections are on the underside. Wired it up and it actually sounds really good. With the bass tube and other parts have about $130.00 in it.
Removed both ends and used 3/4 particle board. Cut hole to fit the amp and speaker. Board is 11 1/2 inches wide and 22 1/2 inch long. Covered with black vinyl. measured where the board will set and seal all the way around the tub. Then on each side of the tub used 1/8 X 1 inch aluminum angle iron to make a ledge put Velcro on the angle iron and along the edges of the underside of the board with the speaker and amp. Did some rewiring so all the connections are on the underside. Wired it up and it actually sounds really good. With the bass tube and other parts have about $130.00 in it.
Last edited by Catman58; 02-09-2015 at 02:30 PM.