C5 Aftermarket Headunit Install
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
C5 Aftermarket Headunit Install
Hello everyone,
I read the C5 Audio FAQ thread, but most of the links that I clicked on for wiring harnesses/install kits are either broken or not available anymore. Just wanted to start this thread to ensure that I'm purchasing what is necessary to install an aftermarket head unit and retain my factory speakers. I have an aftermarket AMP and sub that I will add down the road, but for now it's only the head unit.
I found two products: http://shop.doubledmods.com/Corvette...nstall-kit.htm and http://shop.doubledmods.com/American...es-gwh-344.htm. This will cover the wiring harness, dash kit, and ROEM device.
All and all, purchasing these two products will make the install a simple plug and play, correct? I read that removing the factory Bose head unit you will need to source power from the footwell fuse box, and I'm a little confused about that whole process. I think that the ROEM device prevents sourcing additional power, but I could be wrong.
Thank you.
-Dylan
I read the C5 Audio FAQ thread, but most of the links that I clicked on for wiring harnesses/install kits are either broken or not available anymore. Just wanted to start this thread to ensure that I'm purchasing what is necessary to install an aftermarket head unit and retain my factory speakers. I have an aftermarket AMP and sub that I will add down the road, but for now it's only the head unit.
I found two products: http://shop.doubledmods.com/Corvette...nstall-kit.htm and http://shop.doubledmods.com/American...es-gwh-344.htm. This will cover the wiring harness, dash kit, and ROEM device.
All and all, purchasing these two products will make the install a simple plug and play, correct? I read that removing the factory Bose head unit you will need to source power from the footwell fuse box, and I'm a little confused about that whole process. I think that the ROEM device prevents sourcing additional power, but I could be wrong.
Thank you.
-Dylan
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mfi2000 (07-07-2019)
#2
Tech Contributor
If you install the aftermarket sub/amp/speakers now you don't need the ROEM
The plug in the second link isn't needed regardless.
To keep stock speakers get the ROEM kit (and nothing else). There isn't a switched power source in the stock radio harness, and the ROEM doesn't have a RAP source in it, so you need to get switched power from the footwell to turn the radio on/off with ignition.
The plug in the second link isn't needed regardless.
To keep stock speakers get the ROEM kit (and nothing else). There isn't a switched power source in the stock radio harness, and the ROEM doesn't have a RAP source in it, so you need to get switched power from the footwell to turn the radio on/off with ignition.
#3
BTW, the PacAudio stuff is much cheaper on Fleabay. A complete ROEM-vet1 kit is there now for $29 shipped.
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies everyone. Smartadze, with the Aoem-vet1 kit, do you still need to plug into the passenger footwell for additional power? That kit sounds like it suits me best because I can add my sub and amp at my own speed.
#5
Tech Contributor
The AOEM is for adding an aftermarket amp to the stock radio, if you keep the Bose and add to it or if you gut the Bose and go full aftermarket amp/speakers doesn't matter, but you must keep the stock radio.
The ROEM is needed if you want to keep the stock speakers and install an aftermarket radio. It does not have a switched power wire, so you must get ignition power in the footwell. If you want to retain RAP and not have to wire in the footwall then get an XSVI-2004 instead of the ROEM, but that interface has issues sometimes (not as reliable as ROEM).
You don't need any interface if you do aftermarket radio AND aftermarket amp/speakers (all you need is power from footwell), but if you install the ROEM or XSVI now you can leave it in place when you swap from stock to aftermarket speakers.
DO NOT buy an AOEM if you're replacing the stock radio with aftermarket
The ROEM is needed if you want to keep the stock speakers and install an aftermarket radio. It does not have a switched power wire, so you must get ignition power in the footwell. If you want to retain RAP and not have to wire in the footwall then get an XSVI-2004 instead of the ROEM, but that interface has issues sometimes (not as reliable as ROEM).
You don't need any interface if you do aftermarket radio AND aftermarket amp/speakers (all you need is power from footwell), but if you install the ROEM or XSVI now you can leave it in place when you swap from stock to aftermarket speakers.
DO NOT buy an AOEM if you're replacing the stock radio with aftermarket
#6
The AOEM is for adding an aftermarket amp to the stock radio, if you keep the Bose and add to it or if you gut the Bose and go full aftermarket amp/speakers doesn't matter, but you must keep the stock radio. DO NOT buy an AOEM if you're replacing the stock radio with aftermarket
But THAT is where the AOEM steps in - you can let the entire Bose system wheeze along in all it's glory, but ADD additional amps and speakers to complement it, the whole shebang controlled by the head unit volume control. It is simple to add a 3-channel system in the rear package compartments (6x9 in each side compartment with amp and 12" sub in middle). The only hassle is running 4-gauge power to the rear - ground goes to a seat rear mounting bolt and turn-on comes from the AOEM (as do the RCA's - no footwell). Many new amps don't even need a turn-on signal.
So that's the rub - if one could just replace the head unit and keep the Bose speakers, it would be great - but that gives poor results because the Bose speakers are not compatible with normal signal. So unlike most any OEM stereo in the world, with the Bose you are faced with three choices: replace the ENTIRE system, replace the head unit and try to keep the Bose speakers (ROEM), or simply add a parallel system (AOEM).
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
So basically it sounds like the way to go here is to replace......everything. If I were to get some aftermarket door speakers(I think I have a few lying around from previous vehicles), I'd still need to tap into the passenger footwell, right? But I wouldn't need any ROEM/AOEM products.
I'm sorry if I sound stupid, haha. It's just tough for me to grasp. My past vehicles it's just been as simple as replacing speakers, and head unit without any hesitation.
I'm sorry if I sound stupid, haha. It's just tough for me to grasp. My past vehicles it's just been as simple as replacing speakers, and head unit without any hesitation.
#8
So basically it sounds like the way to go here is to replace......everything. If I were to get some aftermarket door speakers(I think I have a few lying around from previous vehicles), I'd still need to tap into the passenger footwell, right? But I wouldn't need any ROEM/AOEM products.
#9
Tech Contributor
The stock 3.5" fronts and 6.5" rears (5.25" in vert, FRC, & Z06) are standard 4ohm speakers, they can handle any aftermarket HU just fine (they're just POS speakers). Keeping the Bose subs functional is why you need the ROEM (it converts the speaker level outputs to line level).
If you want to add an aftermarket amp for the fronts and rears, then you need speakers that can handle the power and a sub for the bass. Stockers can't handle too much power.
If you only want to replace the HU for now, get the ROEM or XSVI and you'll be fine with the stock speakers. Whenever you decide to do a complete sub/amp/speakers upgrade you'll have to replace everything at once. Doors are most commonly a 6.5" component set, rears are whatever size you have in coaxials, and a 10" sub in center compartment is perfect in C5.
If you want to add an aftermarket amp for the fronts and rears, then you need speakers that can handle the power and a sub for the bass. Stockers can't handle too much power.
If you only want to replace the HU for now, get the ROEM or XSVI and you'll be fine with the stock speakers. Whenever you decide to do a complete sub/amp/speakers upgrade you'll have to replace everything at once. Doors are most commonly a 6.5" component set, rears are whatever size you have in coaxials, and a 10" sub in center compartment is perfect in C5.
#10
I just put the Bose head unit back in (sounds normal again) and am concentrating on a parallel system using the rca feeds from the AOEM.