My stereo, a couple questions about the stock non-bose
#1
My stereo, a couple questions about the stock non-bose
Starting with a 2010 base with non Bose. Eventually I will probably replace all the stock parts but I'm trying to do this incrementally.
I currently have everything stock except for the subs and monoblock amp I added (thanks chets_ls3). The weak door speakers just can't keep up which I expected.
Does anyone have a link or info on the stock non-Bose amp/speakers? I'd like to know how many channels, and how many watts per channel the amp is and what ohms the speakers are. If the stock amp is full range to all channels it might be good enough for me to use for a while.
Are the rear speakers gimped from the amps output via a crossover or something built in or are there bass blockers installed on those rears?
I'd like to pop in some 5.25" in the rear, matching 3.5" speakers in the doors and keep the 8" door subs. It would be great if the stock amp has enough power for aftermarket speakers, I don't really want another amp at this time if it's not absolutely necessary.
I currently have everything stock except for the subs and monoblock amp I added (thanks chets_ls3). The weak door speakers just can't keep up which I expected.
Does anyone have a link or info on the stock non-Bose amp/speakers? I'd like to know how many channels, and how many watts per channel the amp is and what ohms the speakers are. If the stock amp is full range to all channels it might be good enough for me to use for a while.
Are the rear speakers gimped from the amps output via a crossover or something built in or are there bass blockers installed on those rears?
I'd like to pop in some 5.25" in the rear, matching 3.5" speakers in the doors and keep the 8" door subs. It would be great if the stock amp has enough power for aftermarket speakers, I don't really want another amp at this time if it's not absolutely necessary.
#2
Tech Contributor
All stock speakers are 4ohms. The "subs" in a non-bose are just larger normal speakers, nothing special there. None of them can handle much more power than the stock amp puts out.
Stock amp is pretty weak, prob about 15w per channel, if that. If you put 2-ways in for 3.5 and 5.25 you'll get better highs but nothing you can do for more volume except a new amp.
Rears in non-bose are actually in stereo.
Changing out either amp or speakers alone won't work if you're looking for more volume
Since you already have a sub, I'd suggest a 6.5" component set in the doors and a new bridgeable 4-channel amp that can both power the fronts and replace your current amp to power the sub. Then leave the rears as-is powered from the stock amp. If you get an amp with around 80-100wRMS per channel you'll get a lot more volume. Or replace rears also and power from the new amp. A 5-channel amp is also a possibility if you don't want two in the car.
Stock amp is pretty weak, prob about 15w per channel, if that. If you put 2-ways in for 3.5 and 5.25 you'll get better highs but nothing you can do for more volume except a new amp.
Rears in non-bose are actually in stereo.
Changing out either amp or speakers alone won't work if you're looking for more volume
Since you already have a sub, I'd suggest a 6.5" component set in the doors and a new bridgeable 4-channel amp that can both power the fronts and replace your current amp to power the sub. Then leave the rears as-is powered from the stock amp. If you get an amp with around 80-100wRMS per channel you'll get a lot more volume. Or replace rears also and power from the new amp. A 5-channel amp is also a possibility if you don't want two in the car.
#3
I have an old Sony 4 channel amp that does 60w RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms in my box of junk in the garage. I'll temporarily pop that in and hide it under the passenger seat to see what kind of results I get with the replacement speakers I bought. I wouldn't mind another amp if it were the same product line as the Punch monoblock I have but it's a few years old and I think my only source would be ebay and who knows what you'd be getting. I'm trying to be cheap ...it's not working lol.
That's the amp I have, if anyone has a 4 channel that matches it let me know.
That's the amp I have, if anyone has a 4 channel that matches it let me know.
#4
The stock speakers when run by an aftermarket amp do sound a hell of a lot louder and cleaner than with the OEM amp. Just an FYI for anyone working on their system in stages or on a budget. Right before I did my speaker swap I tried them out with a new amp and was very pleased with the results. I have much better sound with my new door speakers but I just wanted to put that out there.
I ended up with another amp (Alpine PDX-5) it's a 5 channel but the sub channel (300w) didn't go as low or as loud as the Punch P300-1 so I went back to that and just use the Alpine for the new JL Audio front and rears I installed. I left the 8" door speakers in place and they are powered by the factory amp, they are the only thing it's powering.
I've been mulling over getting back in there and trying out hooking up the Alpine's sub channel to the stock 8" door subs, I already have more low end than I really need, but why not give it a shot, I will obviously have to turn down the gain. If I shred them I'll just replace them. The Alpine sub channel only seems to go down to about 40hz but the door subs cut off right around there if I remember correctly from the testing I did. At least then I can play around with the crossover point and gain going to those speakers.
I ended up with another amp (Alpine PDX-5) it's a 5 channel but the sub channel (300w) didn't go as low or as loud as the Punch P300-1 so I went back to that and just use the Alpine for the new JL Audio front and rears I installed. I left the 8" door speakers in place and they are powered by the factory amp, they are the only thing it's powering.
I've been mulling over getting back in there and trying out hooking up the Alpine's sub channel to the stock 8" door subs, I already have more low end than I really need, but why not give it a shot, I will obviously have to turn down the gain. If I shred them I'll just replace them. The Alpine sub channel only seems to go down to about 40hz but the door subs cut off right around there if I remember correctly from the testing I did. At least then I can play around with the crossover point and gain going to those speakers.
#7
Shop around for a name brand 5 channel amp so you can add a subwoofer later if you so choose. Decent 5 channel amps with high signal to noise ratio can be pricey so you may want to look at 4 channel amps and then a separate sub amp later. I'd look for 75w x4 @ 4ohms and up to power the fronts and rears.
That's my take on it.
#8
The amp is mounted vertically in the passenger footwell to the left of the fuse panel.
Shop around for a name brand 5 channel amp so you can add a subwoofer later if you so choose. Decent 5 channel amps with high signal to noise ratio can be pricey so you may want to look at 4 channel amps and then a separate sub amp later. I'd look for 75w x4 @ 4ohms and up to power the fronts and rears.
That's my take on it.
Shop around for a name brand 5 channel amp so you can add a subwoofer later if you so choose. Decent 5 channel amps with high signal to noise ratio can be pricey so you may want to look at 4 channel amps and then a separate sub amp later. I'd look for 75w x4 @ 4ohms and up to power the fronts and rears.
That's my take on it.