teddyca

I have the back of my car tore apart for my Alky control kit and figured now is a good time to wire up for a sub. I have a PAC SNI-35 and wonder which wires exactly were tapped. I assume it was off the factory sub. Thanks for any help

markcz

For the wires going to the factory sub:

Left (+) - Light Blue/Gray
Left (-) - Light Green/Black

Right (+) - Light Green/Violet
Right (-) - Gray/Black

teddyca

Thank u sir. I truly appreciate it. Now time to start probing for a remote turn on LOL

markcz

Fuse 37 in the back is hot with ignition. I'm not currently aware of a wire that is on with the radio (2016 manuals aren't available yet).

If you switch to a LC2i LOC it has a trigger output that turns on when it senses the speaker level input.

teddyca

Mark that's to funny you say that. I actually bought a LC2 for another project. If I don't use the PAC SNI-35 I have allocated for this. I still don't have a box solution either but I figured with it tore down I might as well mat and install the converter LOL. I really appreciate all your help here.

Marc@Vettenuts.net

We just finished up an install on a 2016 Z06 Vert and our custom box for the Vert! We used the PAC SNI 35 and tied it in front of the amp in the rear. This offers a full range as compared to the sub. We choose to solder in the wires and it sounded so much better than coming off the sub wire. We also jumped the bottom right 20amp fuse for power. I dont have my notes in front of me for which one it was at this time.

markcz

Good to know

Does the sub stay on with RAP before a door is opened or turn off with ignition? If you used fuse 37 it would turn off with ignition

Marc@Vettenuts.net

We tied into the RF door speaker sub in the rear of the car. Do not use the rear sub output wire. The signal sounds muddy and does not hit!

I will talk to my Tech in the morning and see what fuse he used.

teddyca

Marc- I appreciate the info here. You are right the SQ is certainly muddy. If it is not to much to ask, if the tech can share with us what wires he tapped that would be great. I appreciate it. Also do you have boxes you are selling? I am getting set to go to the stereo shop for a new box. I can wire I cant build LOL. I have 2 shallow P3 RF subs and a RF punch 1000 Should sound good.

Marc@Vettenuts.net

Sure no problem. Here is what we came up with:


We discovered the rear factory sub outlet was not the best source and its because Bose has added a time delay and active noise canceling. The time delay is a small issue as it will just cause the imaging of the bass notes to be pulled to the rear. You can minimize this by using the front right door sub for your sub signal. This signal is on the X2 plug and is wire 6-1 RF- and 14-14 RF+ (pictures below) We recommend soldering into the factory harness instead of using t tappers.

The active noise canceling is a larger issue as it plays through all three bass drivers in the car. What this means is at idle and low rpm on the highway they use the subs to play low frequency information to offset the exhaust and road noise. This is fine at factory power but when amplified it is very loud and causes the music to sound muddy.

To fix this there are two ways of doing it:

1. Disable the feature inside the head unit (Method used on this Install)

2 Unpin the noise reduction mics (we have heard of some issues with this method. We did not try it on this particular Z06 as the customer never runs his noise cancellation) from the amp as follows:

Remove the plug called X3 in this plug you will find 5 wires. You need to remove the pins in location 4 and 5. To do this you need to pull the white locking tab all the way off the connector by prying it forward. Once this is off you need to use a sharp pick tool to pull up the locking tabs at the same time as pulling on the wire. Once these two wires are removed you can tape them up so they wont touch anything and reinstall the connector into the amp.


*One thing to note plug X4 is all most and Lan data and should not be messed with.


We used Fuse #37 in the rear fuse panel. Its for the power receptacle for the center console. It was about our only option.


I took pictures of it in raw form, we will be getting finished photos tomorrow. This is for the driver side only and will fit Stingrays and Z06's.











We have switched to the Positive Links PLZ-2 harness due to several of the PAC harness failing. Its $10 more but worth the extra money.




Here is our new C7 Convertible Sub Box in rough form. We just finished it today! We will add pictures tomorrow finished.




Here is our new C7 Convertible Sub Box in rough form. We just finished it today! We will add pictures tomorrow finished.




Here is our new C7 Convertible Sub Box in rough form. We just finished it today! We will add pictures tomorrow finished.

markcz

Thanks for the info

PM sent.