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Ok so now its time to mount these bad boys up. Threaded rivets are inserted in the doors and washers and cap screws to mount these to the doors. Non hardening modeling clay bead behind each baffle to seal them to the door.
This is the bare cut out for the door access.
Rivets are inserted and modeling clay is applied
Same thing for the speaker baffle
Access area panel installed.
Speaker baffle installed and wired up. Crossover is going in the driver and passenger kicks as I want to be able to use the slope adjustment on the crossover and need easy access
Door all sealed up. Execpt I just noticed there is a small hole up by the wires where they entered the door. Crap, not sure what I'm going to do about that, if anything.
Now thats not the end of it. There still is a small amount of Raammat BXII to go on the inside skin and then a full layer of Ensolite over the top. Might be a while before I get to that as I still have to do the drivers side door.
What tweeters did you pick? That crossover is passive? Looks pretty fancy.
Would plummers putty work?
I like those screw inserts, have never seen those.
I've used plumbers putty before too. Worked just fine. Yes that is a passive crossover, most of the time they are included in component sets. Active crossover generally is just done on the HU or on a DSP. Theres not a box like these. The tweeters are part of the JBL p660c component set.
They are a threaded rivet nut. You can pick them up at ace hardware in several different sizes.
Looks really good, I like the detailed work. So you think you need a rigid panel to seal the access area? Since it doesn't need to support anything, a large piece of soft material, like the sound deadener, would not be as good?
Regarding the hole with the wires. How about getting a large flexible rubber plug/grommet that fits the hole, and cutting a slit in it so you can wrap around wires and insert in hole?
Regarding the hole with the wires. How about getting a large flexible rubber plug/grommet that fits the hole, and cutting a slit in it so you can wrap around wires and insert in hole?
The sound deadener should be sufficient. I'm going to that route as it's not a round hole and would crazy to try to mount wood around it. The large holes you want the wood to stiffen the door.
What amp are you using?
If you were going to use an active crossover, what would you recommend for performance for the $?
Are you using 2 way because of cost, VS 3 way?
I'm going with the MB Quart oa800.4 I've used MB quart amps in a my couple builds because they do clean rated power, and they are cheap as heck. Picked this up for 88 dollars shipped brand new.
As far as the crossovers go, you don't buy or use an active crossover like you would a passive. A passive crossover is a physical unit that goes between the amp and the speakers and usually controls 1-3 speakers. Active crossover is controlling the speaker on the head unit or amp and there is a channel on the amp dedicated to each speaker. That would mean a front two way set up would use 4 amp channels, a front three way set up would use 6 amp channels, etc. This allows you from the head unit to control each speaker individually, you have no crossover in the door or kick. This gives you more control over each speaker and is much better. Passive is a box that controls the speakers to the passive crossovers preset crossover points. Active means you can change every crossover point for each speaker "active" or whenever you want. With a passive crossover you would have to switch the physical crossover out whenever you wanted to change a crossover point. Hope that makes more sense. If you are going active you really should invest in a higher end audiophile head unit, such as the pioneer 80prs which is the best one for the money.
I would love to do a 3 way set up. But theres no room to do it. I have would to alter the interior to do so. Also 3 way gets crazy as far as money. More amps, very expensive head unit, tuning, etc. Its a headache all around.
I see, thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize the actives would use a separate chan for each driver, thought it would be same as passive, just remotely adjustable.
Do you you personally often adjust with a passive over time? I would think you would tweek it after the install, find a sweet spot and leave it. That is what I have done by the amp crossovers, gains, hi/low pass filters, but I have always used coax or triax, or separates with a passive and subs.
I guess the real advantage is not only being able to more easily change setting remotely, VS changing at amp, and more crossover points, and maybe more importantly a channel for each driver? Like having a discrete amp per driver.
I see, thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize the actives would use a separate chan for each driver, thought it would be same as passive, just remotely adjustable.
Do you you personally often adjust with a passive over time? I would think you would tweek it after the install, find a sweet spot and leave it. That is what I have done by the amp crossovers, gains, hi/low pass filters, but I have always used coax or triax, or separates with a passive and subs.
I guess the real advantage is not only being able to more easily change setting remotely, VS changing at amp, and more crossover points, and maybe more importantly a channel for each driver? Like having a discrete amp per driver.
you cannot adjust a passive crossover it is permanently set usually a low pass for the mid set at a certain slope then a high bass for the tweet those crossover points cannot be adjusted. With active you can because nothing is set. Passive you can only adjust the high pass for the mid and the low pass for the tweet with the amp or head unit. You can't adjust individual TA or EQ or every slope or crossover point or power going to each speaker as you can with an active setup.
Ok so I'm waiting on a few pins and stuff for the drivers door that i broke off when removing. So I can't finish that part until i get those parts. So in the mean time I did my big 3 wiring.
-4 gauge Knu wiring OFC
-Battery Negative to Frame Grout
-Battery Positive to Alt. Positive
-Head grout to Frame Ground
-All wiring properly terminated & wrapped in TechFlex
No real shots of it in the car as I forgot to take many. I also have an inline 150amp fuse between the positive battery terminal and the alternator.
Using top post terminals for the audio and big 3 stuff. They each have 2 4 gauge inputs. Here is the alternator positive lead wrapped in techflex, and the amp power wire
Fluxed and soldered, the right way to attach a connector. Crimps are for lazy people.
Head to frame ground cable. Wrapped in techflex and heatshrinked
Alternator to battery wire, techflex and heatshrinked.
Following your build, Awesome ideas. I think I'll try to use your approach on my C5. I like the Pioneer DEH-80PRS and I have a Alpine 4 channel and a Phoenix Gold 2 channel waiting for a use. Just curious, you haven't talked about the rears, would you also put JBL p660c components there? Or I am wondering if something like 8 in woofers instead of the 10 in sub?
Following your build, Awesome ideas. I think I'll try to use your approach on my C5. I like the Pioneer DEH-80PRS and I have a Alpine 4 channel and a Phoenix Gold 2 channel waiting for a use. Just curious, you haven't talked about the rears, would you also put JBL p660c components there? Or I am wondering if something like 8 in woofers instead of the 10 in sub?
Thanks. U will like the 80prs. A little funky to learn but awesome once you get used to it.
Rear speakers are for surround sound for movies. They ruin the soundstage. When is the last time you went to a concert and they had surround sound? Probably never. You want front stage. The only reason the sub can be in back is you have a hard time discerning direction from lower Hz sounds. Usually I have my sound stage done so well I hear the sub coming from the front of the car, even though it's in back.
So I've done alot of fiberglassing in the past, but never done a box partially in wood and partially in fiberglass. I was ready to go and realized I didn't have paint brushes or any fiberglass mat left over, just a ton of resin from when i built a boat in my garage a few years ago. So I cut up a whole t-shirt and spread the resin around with my fingers as best I could. Didn't turn out great, but its never going to be seen by anyone once its done. It just needs to be strong. I'm making the bottom of the box fiberglass so it can conform to the curves of the bottom of the center tub.
Here is the wood frame for the sides of the box
There will be a wood top for the sub then another wood panel to cover the whole tub area.
3m blue tape and wax on top to help the fiberglass release and not stick to the car. Not sure it worked right, I think it might be a permanent feature of the car now.
first coat of resin and an old t shirt to make the rough shape. Its not pretty but after a few more coats, then i will smooth the bottom. Also need to change the bottom depth so i can have the perfect .625 cf the JL says the sub wants.
OK scrapped the fiberglass bottom box, after several layers I still wasn't getting the strength I wanted and the size was not going to work out right. So I went back to good old MDF.
Going to cover this top piece with cloth or vinyl. Box ended up exactly the right volume for the JL 10w0
It is a w1v2, typo on my part. Had this sub for about 8 years and it's still going strong. It's handled 500w RMS amp for that long in my truck. I still preferred the w3's I used to have in an old car but the prices on those has gotten ridiculous.
How many watts are you going to drive the subwoofer with?
Can you take an SPL reading?
I am running two JL Audio 10w0v3-4 - soon to have 500 watts for the pair @ 2 ohms.
How many watts are you going to drive the subwoofer with?
Can you take an SPL reading?
I am running two JL Audio 10w0v3-4 - soon to have 500 watts for the pair @ 2 ohms.
I will have 400w going to it. No I won't get an SPL reading because I never worry about it. I'm all about sound quality not big booming subs, hence only having one 10". I think you will be happy with 500w RMS going to those subs. I used to have 4 10w3's on a 1000/1 JL amp in my old 350z. That sucker would pound. Had 2 behind the seats and 2 mounted in the hatch. Had it wired so I could run the 2 behind the seat at 4ohm or switch it to all 4 running at around 2ohms. After that car I lost all desire for all, it was just too much bass.
11-11-2016, 10:55 PM
Door Baffles Continued...
