DIY Toe adjustments on C5
#1
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St. Jude Donor '08-'12, '14-'15
DIY Toe adjustments on C5
I know that toe is pretty easy to change by adjusting the tie rods, however is there a good Tech Article out there that clearly explains how many turns and which way to turn the rods to get Toe In and Out and how much each turn changes.
I have my Camber and Caster set were I want them and the Toe is Zero front and rear right now. Was going to simply add a little toe out in the front and toe in (in) the rear just on the days I race and then reset back to Zero when done.
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Rick
I have my Camber and Caster set were I want them and the Toe is Zero front and rear right now. Was going to simply add a little toe out in the front and toe in (in) the rear just on the days I race and then reset back to Zero when done.
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Rick
#2
On the fronts, 1 full turn of a tie rod results in approx. 1/8" toe change. 2 full turns is 1/4 -5/16" change (in total toe).
Jam nuts on the tie rod ends (22mm wrench) loosen up in the clockwise direction (looking towards the car, at the brake/hub assembly). Mark your current zero position with a Sharpie marker or paint.
Loosen the Jam nut, then turn tie rod shaft (it has a hex for a 1/2"-13mm wrench) . In the front, turn clockwise to add toe out. In the rear, clockwise adds toe in.
I would change an equal amount on each side, this will keep the steering wheel centered.
Do not drive long distances with toe out set - tires will wear down very quickly. Same for over 1/8" of toe in in the rear.
Easy tool for checking toe at home or at the track - toe plates
Jam nuts on the tie rod ends (22mm wrench) loosen up in the clockwise direction (looking towards the car, at the brake/hub assembly). Mark your current zero position with a Sharpie marker or paint.
Loosen the Jam nut, then turn tie rod shaft (it has a hex for a 1/2"-13mm wrench) . In the front, turn clockwise to add toe out. In the rear, clockwise adds toe in.
I would change an equal amount on each side, this will keep the steering wheel centered.
Do not drive long distances with toe out set - tires will wear down very quickly. Same for over 1/8" of toe in in the rear.
Easy tool for checking toe at home or at the track - toe plates
#3
Race Director
here is the way I check toe. It is very repeatable
http://www.metricchemical.com/align.PDF
Also, in my experience, 1.5 "flat" (1/6 of a full turn) is about a 16th of an inch.
If I need to move a side 6/16 (I think in terms of 16ths), I'd give it 9 flats, or 1.5 full turns.
Dave
http://www.metricchemical.com/align.PDF
Also, in my experience, 1.5 "flat" (1/6 of a full turn) is about a 16th of an inch.
If I need to move a side 6/16 (I think in terms of 16ths), I'd give it 9 flats, or 1.5 full turns.
Dave
#4
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Great info guys..just what I was looking for
I was was told that this is pretty easy to do right at the track with the wheels off when I put the race ones on. So it seems like it is very simply to change race then change back to the exact previsou setting...just make sure I'm turning the same amount on each rod. Does tht sound about right is it really that simple?
Thanks again,
Rick
I was was told that this is pretty easy to do right at the track with the wheels off when I put the race ones on. So it seems like it is very simply to change race then change back to the exact previsou setting...just make sure I'm turning the same amount on each rod. Does tht sound about right is it really that simple?
Thanks again,
Rick
#5
It really is that simple. Make good marks for your zero position. Also mark your eccentrics on the lower control arms, they will move eventually, the marks will give you an idea which one shifted.
Adds about 30 sec. per wheel once you have done it a few of times.
Adds about 30 sec. per wheel once you have done it a few of times.