Performance Rotors from NAPA Drilled/slotted/cheap?
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Performance Rotors from NAPA Drilled/slotted/cheap?
I was purchasing another rotor for my c5 saturday and the guy said they could order performance rotors for my car. They are cross drilled and slotted for like 59.00 each.
Has anyone tried them? Are they any better than stock? Would they help in autocrossing/roadracing?
Has anyone tried them? Are they any better than stock? Would they help in autocrossing/roadracing?
#3
Le Mans Master
oh boy, here we go again.
In the 1970s brake pads would vent some kind of gas that needed a place to go, so someone got the idea of cutting slots and holes in the rotors.
what also happens is that there is less metal to absorb the heat, so they end up getting hotter, and cutting holes and slots creates weak spots in the metal.
If you want to spend a little more $$, you can get rotors with the holes pre cast (C6 Z51, Porsche, ect.) It's better, but they will still crack around the holes.
fast forward to 2005, modern brake pads don't produce any gasses (sorry don't remember the technical term for it), so there is no need for the slotted/drilled rotors, and you've still got all of the negative side affects.
In the 1970s brake pads would vent some kind of gas that needed a place to go, so someone got the idea of cutting slots and holes in the rotors.
what also happens is that there is less metal to absorb the heat, so they end up getting hotter, and cutting holes and slots creates weak spots in the metal.
If you want to spend a little more $$, you can get rotors with the holes pre cast (C6 Z51, Porsche, ect.) It's better, but they will still crack around the holes.
fast forward to 2005, modern brake pads don't produce any gasses (sorry don't remember the technical term for it), so there is no need for the slotted/drilled rotors, and you've still got all of the negative side affects.
#4
Pro
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St. Jude Donor '07
Can confirm cracking on C6 Z51
2 track events, 1800 miles on the clock-front rotors showing tons of cracks around the holes. Hopefully raybestos will hurry up with those replacements!
#5
Le Mans Master
If you are NOT going to track your car and want something that looks nice on the street...go for it!
If you plan on tracking your car at least a couple times this year...NO WAY!
The worst case is that you crack them and are out $50+, which WILL happen much sooner than non-drilled/sloted rotors. I pay $19 on RockAuto.
I can usually get a set of rotors to last a good 4 track days if the weather is cool, by the 4th event the cracks are too big for comfort. In the right conditions, on a tight fast course, on hot day... I'll get 1 event out of them.
If you plan on tracking your car at least a couple times this year...NO WAY!
The worst case is that you crack them and are out $50+, which WILL happen much sooner than non-drilled/sloted rotors. I pay $19 on RockAuto.
I can usually get a set of rotors to last a good 4 track days if the weather is cool, by the 4th event the cracks are too big for comfort. In the right conditions, on a tight fast course, on hot day... I'll get 1 event out of them.
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 95jersey
If you are NOT going to track your car and want something that looks nice on the street...go for it!
If you plan on tracking your car at least a couple times this year...NO WAY!
The worst case is that you crack them and are out $50+, which WILL happen much sooner than non-drilled/sloted rotors. I pay $19 on RockAuto.
I can usually get a set of rotors to last a good 4 track days if the weather is cool, by the 4th event the cracks are too big for comfort. In the right conditions, on a tight fast course, on hot day... I'll get 1 event out of them.
If you plan on tracking your car at least a couple times this year...NO WAY!
The worst case is that you crack them and are out $50+, which WILL happen much sooner than non-drilled/sloted rotors. I pay $19 on RockAuto.
I can usually get a set of rotors to last a good 4 track days if the weather is cool, by the 4th event the cracks are too big for comfort. In the right conditions, on a tight fast course, on hot day... I'll get 1 event out of them.
Oh wow... Looks like I need to change out the other three rotors.
OK, I'll stay clear of the "performance" rotors.
#7
Melting Slicks
Let me echo this... I cracked a cross drilled rotor on another track car years ago and it caused one of the highest speed and WORST spins I've ever experienced on track in my life without hitting something solid.
Avoid them at all cost or plan to run very mild pads...
Mike
Avoid them at all cost or plan to run very mild pads...
Mike
#8
Team Owner
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I saw an add for rotors last month, cant rembere who it was from
the add went something like this
Rotors
Drilled and Slotted for Performance
Slotted for occational track use
For MAXIMUM braking contact Solid side rotors.
Go figure
the add went something like this
Rotors
Drilled and Slotted for Performance
Slotted for occational track use
For MAXIMUM braking contact Solid side rotors.
Go figure
#9
Melting Slicks
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why spend 59 for track rotors when the stocks from rockauto (raybestos) are 20 bucks you cant beat $100 for 4 shipped to the door! especially if you go through them like some people on here
#10
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Oyishdog
why spend 59 for track rotors when the stocks from rockauto (raybestos) are 20 bucks you cant beat $100 for 4 shipped to the door! especially if you go through them like some people on here
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by dmtnt
1.5 track days for a set of fronts with Wilwood H pads.
Would wildwood pads help in autocrossing or would I not get enough heat in them to make them work?
#12
Burning Brakes
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Whether the wildwood pads will be any good for autocrossing depends on what its operation temperature range is. I'm trying a pad made by Cobalt Friction that has an operating Temperature Range of 75* - 950+*F. This makes for excellent initial bite which is what you want for autocrossing. These pads feel to be on par with the Hawk HP Plus that I tried in the past, but the initial bite seems to be better than the Hawk pads. So far I've run two events on them and they seem to be doing fine. They are a bit noisy during casual street driving, but then so were the Hawk and Performance Friction pads I've tried in the past.
Anyone else out there try the Cobalt pads?
Anyone else out there try the Cobalt pads?
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 96CELT4
Whether the wildwood pads will be any good for autocrossing depends on what its operation temperature range is. I'm trying a pad made by Cobalt Friction that has an operating Temperature Range of 75* - 950+*F. This makes for excellent initial bite which is what you want for autocrossing. These pads feel to be on par with the Hawk HP Plus that I tried in the past, but the initial bite seems to be better than the Hawk pads. So far I've run two events on them and they seem to be doing fine. They are a bit noisy during casual street driving, but then so were the Hawk and Performance Friction pads I've tried in the past.
Anyone else out there try the Cobalt pads?
Anyone else out there try the Cobalt pads?
This sounds interesting. Perhaps we should have it in a seperate post. I'll start one now.
#14
Melting Slicks
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We installed the cheap NAPA rotors on a track car and they cracked while doing the initial bed-in procedure, so I would stay clear, you'll get more rotor/pad life with the standard $25 units. As far as the Willwoods I think that the initial bite on them is very good, those pads have a very wide operating range, as far as temp. Dusty & noisey but very effective at all temp ranges.
#15
Safety Car
Originally Posted by 96CollectorSport
We installed the cheap NAPA rotors on a track car and they cracked while doing the initial bed-in procedure, so I would stay clear, you'll get more rotor/pad life with the standard $25 units.
#16
For the C5, the NAPA, Raybestos (Rockauto) and the OEM replacement Brembo rotors are all the same. The only difference is the box that they ship in and the price.
I've never had a problem with these rotors. They last just as long as the stock GM rotors.
X
I've never had a problem with these rotors. They last just as long as the stock GM rotors.
X
#17
Melting Slicks
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I was refering to the cheap NAPA rotors that are drilled and slotted the solid ones are great, sorry for any confusion. All they do is take the $25 rotor drill and slot it and send it out. They are just too weak to use when drilled and slotted. They are actually Raybestos "Brutestop" rotors that cracked after rotor bedding. That was on a 02 Z06, I work on many different cars so the C4 throws people off.