BQuicksilver

Thinking about switching from ATE Super Blue after a few weekends of boiling the system and getting a spongy pedal. Fluid may not be the issue, but it's the #1 suspect after inspecting the other parts of the system.

I've read here that SRF is glycol based, but this tech imformation had me a little more confused:
http://www.hrpworld.com/CastrolSRF.c...action=product

Some quotes:
"The exceptional performance of Castrol SRF is due to a novel silicon ester technology pioneered by Castrol "

"Castrol SRF evolved as a direct result of Castrol's ongoing Research and Development program for brake fluids which identified this silicon ester technology as providing considerable performance benefits when compared with conventional glycol ether borate ester fluids."

"unlike conventional glycol ether fluids, Castrol SRF reacts chemically with the absorbed water to reduce its adverse effects, thus preventing the fluid's high temperature performance and safety margins from deteriorating as rapidly as they would otherwise do."

"Castrol SRF exceeds the US Federal Standards FMVSS 116 DOT 3 and DOT 4, ISO 4925, JIS K2233 and current SAE J1703 and is miscible with all conventional brake fluids conforming to these standards. However, mixing Castrol SRF and conventional brake fluids will reduce the benefits of Castrol SRF. It is strongly recommended that conventional brake fluid be drained from the system before flushing and re-filling with Castrol SRF."

"NOTE: DO NOT MIX CASTROL SRF WITH OTHER BRAKE FLUIDS"

jlucas

I've never had an issue with ATE. 5 years of racing including two 13 hour & three 25 hour enduros.

BQuicksilver

Thanks, but I'd rather not turn this into another "what fluid is best" discussion. Others have switched and had spongy pedals go away.

AU N EGL

I switched to SRF when I boiled ATE Super blue for the second time. Now over the course of a year, SRF is less expesive then ATE as I use Less cans and have better braking.

73-84 IMSA Widebody

I use Wilwoods fluid. I do not use thier 570 or 600 racing fluids, but they hype it will not boil until past 625 degrees, it and the specs are listed on thier site. FYI, good luck.
www.stealth316.com/2-brakefluid.htm has side by side comparisons of SuperBlue/SRF etc.

Janni

From the SRF bottle:

1. "Mixing SRF with conventional brake fluids will reduce the benefits of this product" Therefore - it is COMPATIBLE with other fluids, but you'll lower the wet and dry BPs if you don't flush the system first. Above statement about not mixing is probably just a warning that it'll decrease performance.

2. "Contains polyalkylene glycol esters" Statement about about silicone esters is incorrect

yellow01

Silicon Ester is not the same as Silicone based.

Although, the mixability comment confuses me, as I thought I had heard/read they are mixable. Regardless, no biggie.

SRF should not have the aeration and water retention (corrosion) issues related to Silicone based fluids. The issue with silicone based fluids (DOT5) is that they do not absorb water at all (either reaction with or dissolution). Good news is the chemical properties don't change, bad news is all the water left free to corrode your lines.

yellow01

Castrol doesn't agree with you
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s/SRF_B768.pdf

Bill Dearborn

Over the last 9 years I have used my brakes pretty hard at Watkins Glen with PFC01s and Hawk Blues with or without air ducts and have never had a problem with boiled brake fluid (no matter which brand). You might get by with SRF but I am wondering if there is something else happening. Is it a spongy pedal or a long pedal? The cause of each is different.

Bill

Janni

You are right - the bottle does not mention the silicone esters.

However - as someone else stated - silicone esters do not equal silicone....

Still the very best brake fluid available - and your reference does clarify some common misconceptions - thanks for posting it!

FasterIsBetter

The real problem with silicone based fluids is that they do not do well with extreme heat. They are fine for normal highway driving, but exposed to the heat of performance driving, the tend to turn to jelly. Try stopping the car when that happens.

I've used ATE SuperBlue in several different cars and always had good luck with it. I know other folks that use Motul 600 or Wilwood and like them. SRF is supposed to be great as well. For me, until I have a problem, I'm sticking with the ATE SuperBlue. YMMV.

John Shiels

using Wilwood 600 now as I ran out of SRF and didn't know it. Wilwood is better than Motul but no match for SRF. Like I always said and Tom said above SRF cheaper per mile in the long run and to me works better than anyting out there.

AU N EGL

If take some time and watch differnt places you will find some sales.

I think I have 6 cans that I bought this past year, $55-60 each and no shipping.

Even though it is more expesive out the door. it is less per mile and in the long run.

Some times it is hard to find. The normal Casrtol imported does not or can not aways get it. The SRF is made in England not Germany.

The Wilwood 600 and the Motul 600 are also very good brake fluids, just flush each day on the track.

I have see two differnt Ford HD fluids. one was a 550/400 D/W temp rating, which should work well too.

Rember guys it is not just the brake fluid. Take into account your brake pads and most importantly your braking style. Do you always go very deep into the braking zone?? well if you do YES you will heat up any brake fluid. or do you put on the brakes 50 feet sooner to preserver your brakes?

Being consistant can also be boaring, but it does make your equimpent last longer