bgenerous

Just finished up the season of autox up here in chilly Alaska. Started the season out with fresh heat cycled A6's all around and now just starting to show cords on both front tires. With both my son and I driving we had a total of 92 runs on this set of tires; not sure if that is good or bad. Am a little concerned how they wore; cords showing about 3/4" in from sidewall. Not really surprised because we have a street set-up not a track set-up.

Will try changing the alignment next season so get a more even wear and hopefully better times. Do any of you have any opinion on buying heat cycled or non-heat cycled Hoosiers? And any advice on autox alignment for a 01 Z06 would be welcomed.

clubracer6

Just out of curiousity, besides auto-x is there any other auto racing up there? Are there any road courses? Sorry I'm not helping but I never thought of Alaska and auto-xing... Must be a short season!

CHJ In Virginia

The new Hoosiers like a lot of negative camber. The factory web site lists at least 1 1/2 degree as the minimum. That might cause problems on your street tires, but it will make the race tires last longer. Another thing that will help especially with street alignment is flipping the tires after 50 or so runs. That way the tread that was on the inside is on the outside and you will get more even wear and life. IMHO heat cycling is the way to go. It is expensive, but it adds life to the tires - especially track tires on a road course.

UstaB-GS549

Heat Cycle & Alaska all in the same post.



Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

I lived in Anchorage for 2 years.

XPC5R

92 runs is very good for those tires, especially without an aggressive alignment or flipping on the rim. Both of those will extend even more.

I would stick with the hat cycling, given the results you have had so far.

Stan

racerwannabe

i too lived in anchorage for 2 years ..'68 to '70
and i ran a set of A-6's this season.
got 30 autox runs and they were shot ,so i would say you really got your moneys worth!!
johnny

bgenerous

Unfortunately we don't have any road courses up here but there is a new organization that just started; the South Central Alaska Motorsports Association (SCAKMA) that is trying to draw interest in a 1/3 mile oval/road course design. I will be waiting with anxious eyes to see what happens. The Auto-x season is short, normally from May thru September but there is also Rally, Rally-x and ice racing in the winter.

Thanks about the idea of flipping the tires on the rim, never thought of that; will have to give it a try next season along with a small camber change.

tigerdrvr

92 runs sounds great

For alignment, I've settled on -2.0 camber, zero toe and max caster, front. -1.5 camber, 1/4 toe in, rear. Ride height is set with the front still having some downward adjustment, rear pretty much maxed out for lowering=effective zero rake, to maybe a 1/4".

GTB/ZR-1

Hey Johnny, this is George (I had the yellow '02Z #99 that runs IIJ in FL)

You only got 30 (!) runs? What happened? Did they go away that quick or cord?

I'm asking, because I need to go w/ 18s because of the new car & have only ever run Kuhmos--but they don't make them wide enough in 18s.

Thx...

Jacki&GeneZ16

However, bgenerous is effective. He has faster runs than Jacki in her ZO6 and me in my C4 Vert.

gonzalezfj

If you are running Hoosiers, make sure to align the car with all the negative camber you can get from the factory setup, both front (-1.5 to -2.0 degrees) and rear (-1.0 to -1.5 degrees). If you don't, you will cord the Hoosiers at the outside edge.

I have run an entire season (about 60 runs) with my Hoosier A6s and there is still tread on them. I drive hard.

You will kill the Kumho 710 drivers...

Frank Gonzalez

Jacki&GeneZ16

Frank, I want to be sure on the use of "both." Does "both front (-1.5 to -2.0 degrees) and rear (-1.0 to -1.5 degrees)" mean each side is -1.5 to -2.0 degrees on the front and each side is -1.0 to -1.5 degrees on the rear?

I noticed that VB&P's numbers need to be divided by 2 since they are the total degrees for the front or rear. If the latter, then we "dial" in half on each side, e.g., your numbers could be -0.75 to -1.0 degrees on the left front and then the same -0.75 to -1.0 degrees on the right front.

gonzalezfj

I have never seen the camber measurements have to be divided by anything. Toe-in/out, yes, but not camber.

Each front wheel should have -1.5 to -2.0 degrees, the maximum you can get with the factory eccentrics. Same for the rear, -1.0 to -1.5 degrees.

My car has -1.8 front and -1.4 rear, the maximum Phoenix Performance could get.

Toe-in is set at zero in the front and 1/4" (1/8" each side) in the rear.

I don't care what the caster is as long as it's reasonable.

Your car with A6s will handle so much better than the 710s, you will find it hard to believe it. I used 710s for two seasons and have run both tires (A6/710) side by side (I have 3 sets of wheels), so the results of my comparison are as accurate as they can be made without instrumentation.

Good luck,
Frank Gonzalez

Jacki&GeneZ16

Thanks Frank, I appreciate your response. I have not done any adjustments to Jacki's ZO6, but on my C4 I used VB&P info at:

http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm

and it includes C5 specs. That is where I read "... Please note that these specs are symmetrical. For example, when we recommend 1/8" toe in, that indicates 1/16" on each front wheel for a total of 1/8" total toe in." As a result I divided everything in half.

Regarding A6s, there is a lot of support in the CF for your opinion. We did receive a set for Jacki's ZO6 last week, but the wheels we did not receive the wheels in time for her to use. I plan to use up the Kumhos on my C4, then replace them with A6s.