Added ECS Spindle Ducts and D/R Brake Ducts
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Added ECS Spindle Ducts and D/R Brake Ducts
Well after some crack rotors and some small brake issues with DTC-70s at WGI in July I decided to add the brake cooling. ECS designed a metal spindle duct that looks like it will outlast many other components on my car. The D/R plastic Brake Ducts have the correct shape to fit in the wheel well and connect to the OEM ducts (that do basically nothing).
Of course the test would be on the track. Last time at the track we cracked 3 new rotors throughout the weekend. This time with old rotors on 2 cars we did not have one cracked rotor. I am not sure if this is 100% directly related to the cooling, but it makes sense that the cooling is helping.
overall the feel of my brakes were better than last time at WGI even with the longer 30 min sessions. to both ECS and D/R for making quality parts.
Of course the test would be on the track. Last time at the track we cracked 3 new rotors throughout the weekend. This time with old rotors on 2 cars we did not have one cracked rotor. I am not sure if this is 100% directly related to the cooling, but it makes sense that the cooling is helping.
overall the feel of my brakes were better than last time at WGI even with the longer 30 min sessions. to both ECS and D/R for making quality parts.
#2
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Hey WW, are these the same ones that BM has on his car? I was looking at them, they look very effective, and I think I'm adding them over the winter to my car.
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by GeorgeZNJ
Hey WW, are these the same ones that BM has on his car? I was looking at them, they look very effective, and I think I'm adding them over the winter to my car.
Bobby, Doug and I all installed them last time. When you move to a race pad (even aggressive street pad on the track should have them) you will need to keep the rotors cooler and this is the most effective way.
I think adding as much cooling to your car as possible is beneficial for keeping your car running longer. Look at your oil can coolant temps. I added the Dewitts radiator with Oil Cooler and now my car stays within the comfort level it was designed to be at. Much better than the 300 oil temps that many others see.
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
I have the DRM ducts but no spindle ducts... they do help big-time. Just make sure you do cool down laps in the pits before you park it.
how are they connected to the rotor without spindle ducts? The ECS spindle ducts made it easy to connect the ducts to the where the air needs to be....
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Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel
how are they connected to the rotor without spindle ducts? The ECS spindle ducts made it easy to connect the ducts to the where the air needs to be....
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
The hoses are zip tied to the A arm and blow air on the rotor, not as effective as spindle ducts, but since I still drive on the street a bunch I wanted to be able to turn lock/lock.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
I don't pull hoses off, but I do rub my DRM ducts a little at full lock. :-( Stock C6 wheels.
glen
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
The hoses are zip tied to the A arm and blow air on the rotor, not as effective as spindle ducts, but since I still drive on the street a bunch I wanted to be able to turn lock/lock.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
Last edited by Bad Machine; 09-26-2006 at 10:36 AM.
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
The hoses are zip tied to the A arm and blow air on the rotor, not as effective as spindle ducts, but since I still drive on the street a bunch I wanted to be able to turn lock/lock.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
Hey Brian,
The spindle ducts work fine on the street without the hoses falling off etc. We used a large lip that holds the hose on very well with a hose clamp.
I have talked to a person at the track last time that thought the DRM ducts were hard to install, but I thought it was very easy and straight forward. Each side takes about 45 min including removing the spindle to install our spindle duct. It is a relitively cheap mod for the benifit.
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Originally Posted by Bad Machine
I can turn lock to lock with stock wheels and tires on the street. I slightly rub the plastic with slicks at the track however this is only at low speed negotiating through the garage/pit area, so there is no issue with the hoses. I would also recommend using hose clamps instead of zip ties. ECS spindle ducts are a straight forward installation. A lift makes it easier but a jack will work. Plan for about 4 hours for the average install, your brakes will love you for it. ECS and DRM
four hours?? how much were you drinking inbetween??
(I could see that if it's your first set your installing)
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
The hoses are zip tied to the A arm and blow air on the rotor, not as effective as spindle ducts, but since I still drive on the street a bunch I wanted to be able to turn lock/lock.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
Can you turn lock/lock w/o pulling the hoses off? If so I'll look into getting spindle ducts to do it better.
ECS Spindle ducts have a decent amount of metal to clamp onto. I would be surprised if they came off.
I am checking the DRM brake ducts tonight to see if there is any rubbing. I am running 295 fronts with CCWs and on the lift there was enough room, but since WGI I have not had a chance to get the car in the air again to see if there was any rubbing....
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
four hours?? how much were you drinking inbetween??
(I could see that if it's your first set your installing)
(I could see that if it's your first set your installing)
not as much as other nights
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Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
four hours?? how much were you drinking inbetween??
(I could see that if it's your first set your installing)
(I could see that if it's your first set your installing)
Plus, suppose you are working alone and there is nobody to make you drinks!
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Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
Each side takes about 45 min including removing the spindle to install our spindle duct.
#20
Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
Hey Brian,
The spindle ducts work fine on the street without the hoses falling off etc. We used a large lip that holds the hose on very well with a hose clamp.
I have talked to a person at the track last time that thought the DRM ducts were hard to install, but I thought it was very easy and straight forward. Each side takes about 45 min including removing the spindle to install our spindle duct. It is a relitively cheap mod for the benifit.
The spindle ducts work fine on the street without the hoses falling off etc. We used a large lip that holds the hose on very well with a hose clamp.
I have talked to a person at the track last time that thought the DRM ducts were hard to install, but I thought it was very easy and straight forward. Each side takes about 45 min including removing the spindle to install our spindle duct. It is a relitively cheap mod for the benifit.
Hi Doug, How much weight do these set-up add?