Whats the best way to make my 93 base C4 handle?
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Whats the best way to make my 93 base C4 handle?
Whats the best way to update the handling (and braking) of my base 1993 C4? I don't plan on any hardcore HPDE but maybe one or two here or there.. I would sure like to show up a few of my buddies 911's - Is this possible?
The car has 164k miles and I figure most of the suspension is tired..
So Just to freshen it up I installed new Stock valved Bilstien shocks, BAll joints and tire rods.. For braking I put a set EBC green stuff brake pads and new NAPA rotors on all four corners..
Whats next??!
The car has 164k miles and I figure most of the suspension is tired..
So Just to freshen it up I installed new Stock valved Bilstien shocks, BAll joints and tire rods.. For braking I put a set EBC green stuff brake pads and new NAPA rotors on all four corners..
Whats next??!
#2
Burning Brakes
people always get mad at me for letting this little secret out, but the best way to improve your car now is to install a 5 point harness and go out and drive!! a harness will excede the benifits of thousands of dallars of other mods.. c4s are notorious for a few things. power stearing pumps (suck out about 3/4 of the fluid in your res. and full with lucas ps treatment worked for me). Get some high temp brake fluid would use ap 600 or other top of the line fluid because c4 brakes get really hot fast, and over fill your oil about 1 quart.Your not going to benifit from other mods until you get about 5 trackdays under your belt...then, track tires,zo6 front brakes . hawk hp + pads sway bars, trailer and winch, 20 thousand dollar motor quick shifter,tow vehicle with sleeper, quit your job and drift around the country going from track day to track day.......
Last edited by TRACKMAN2; 09-30-2006 at 09:35 PM.
#3
Safety Car
I *HATE* EBC Green Stuff pads. I put them on a Miata and it wouldn't stop so I certainly wouldn't trust them on a Vette... I made no changes except swapping in Hawk HP+ pads on the Miata and it was night and day. I will never again run EBC pads.
#4
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by 383_BluByU
Whats next??!
Of course now being able to feel what the car is doing, I realize I'm in dire need of some Z07 springs and sway bars.
As far as brakes, a minimum would be a J55 or GS 13" upgrade for the front and a DRM bias spring. If you've got the cash a Wilwood C4 setup would be very nice http://wilwood.com/Centers/Photo/Pages/360images.asp. In fact, feel free to have a set drop shipped to me and I'll test them out for you!
Last edited by astock165; 10-02-2006 at 08:45 AM.
#5
Team Owner
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Mine started off as a base suspension car, it had so much understeer I couldn't stand it! I put on the Z07 swaybars, best mod for the $$$. I also went to a bigger wheel/tire combo. If you don't want to run 335's on all 4, then upgrade the fronts so you can run 275's all the way around, you'll also be able to rotate your tires.
#8
Originally Posted by 383_BluByU
Whats the best way to update the handling (and braking) of my base 1993 C4?
Whats next??!
Whats next??!
#9
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by Oyishdog
how much weight can you strip off a c4? removing interior, a/c, etc etc?
The rear lexan makes a big difference, front lexan only saves about 8pounds believe it or not.
I estimate a 40# improvement from stripping the wiring, (Non- computer controlled carberator) but kept the ABS harness.
Stripping off the dumdum on the bare chassis saves the most weight by far, probably 50+#s by my estimation. this takes alot of time and patience and breathing alot of "Goof Off" which really sucks.
If you are serious about lightening a car. the dumdum is where to spend your time.
#10
Safety Car
I'm with Evan and Trackman, spend some money getting a few track events under you (go by yourself), then go with your friends and embarrass them.
But some cheap mods that are helpful regardless of skill are bushings and sway bars (already mentioned), alignment (HUGE!!!), and tires.
Next up are the ever-controversial coil-overs, brake upgrades, and weight.
It's easy to get about 200# from a C4 without much more than AC and some interior stuff. On the C4 tech forum there is a whole post by NitrousSam about weight reduction, his target is a 2500# street driven C4.
But some cheap mods that are helpful regardless of skill are bushings and sway bars (already mentioned), alignment (HUGE!!!), and tires.
Next up are the ever-controversial coil-overs, brake upgrades, and weight.
It's easy to get about 200# from a C4 without much more than AC and some interior stuff. On the C4 tech forum there is a whole post by NitrousSam about weight reduction, his target is a 2500# street driven C4.
#11
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Evan Ginsberg
Stripping off the dumdum on the bare chassis saves the most weight by far, probably 50+#s by my estimation. this takes alot of time and patience and breathing alot of "Goof Off" which really sucks.
If you are serious about lightening a car. the dumdum is where to spend your time.
If you are serious about lightening a car. the dumdum is where to spend your time.
The easiest single savings for me was the flywheel...from 40# down to 16#. Lightweight crank was another 8, balancer pulley 6 more. And that's in the crucial rotating part of the car
#12
Melting Slicks
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I don't consider a light wt racing crank a free mod, nor do I consider it important. within the rotating assembly, a light wt piston is more important then a lt wt crank, the piston is the swing wt that deals with more enertia or momentum because it is further away from the midline of the rotation.
a lt flywheel is more important then a lt crank...
IMHO
The dumdum is the black goo on the doorsils and body pan, you know what I mean
a lt flywheel is more important then a lt crank...
IMHO
The dumdum is the black goo on the doorsils and body pan, you know what I mean
#13
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Evan Ginsberg
I don't consider a light wt racing crank a free mod, nor do I consider it important. within the rotating assembly, a light wt piston is more important then a lt wt crank, the piston is the swing wt that deals with more enertia or momentum because it is further away from the midline of the rotation.
a lt flywheel is more important then a lt crank...
IMHO
The dumdum is the black goo on the doorsils and body pan, you know what I mean
a lt flywheel is more important then a lt crank...
IMHO
The dumdum is the black goo on the doorsils and body pan, you know what I mean
It was mostly a joke...
#14
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Evan Ginsberg
Stripping off the dumdum on the bare chassis saves the most weight by far, probably 50+#s by my estimation. this takes alot of time and patience and breathing alot of "Goof Off" which really sucks.
If you are serious about lightening a car. the dumdum is where to spend your time.
If you are serious about lightening a car. the dumdum is where to spend your time.
Assuming we're talking about the same "dumdum".
#15
Safety Car
Originally Posted by gkmccready
Ugh. "Goof Off"? Get a bunch of dry ice and a rubber mallet... freeze it, then whack it, it should fall off in big chunks. Just wear gloves so you don't burn yourself with the ice, but that's easier to manage than avoiding Goof Off fumes.
Assuming we're talking about the same "dumdum".
Assuming we're talking about the same "dumdum".
#16
Melting Slicks
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Nope, you are on the right track, My friend put all that "Gunk" in a bucket from a 4th gen camaro and said it weighed 75#s. I think that would take a while, but I think it's great busy work for the detailed oriented builder.
#17
Safety Car
Originally Posted by ScaryFast
Ok now I'm confused. I don't see any gunk that would fall off in chunks. There's the undercoating along the bottom, and the gunk along the doorsills and such where carpeting was glued down. Is there something I'm missing?
#18
Safety Car
Originally Posted by gkmccready
The undercoating will come off in chunks if you freeze it with dry ice and then give it a good solid whack. :-) Much easier than Goof Off and a putty knife...