MattB

Anyone use these and how long will they last? I'm afraid I'm starting to get to the point where I'll be cracking one piece rotors more often than I would like (as if any cracking would be desirable ), and was hoping to find a two piece design for both front and back (cracked both rears pretty bad last weekend).

I want to stay with the stock size wheels, I'm looking to get a set of track wheels and don't want to buy two sets so wheels. The stoptech areorotor seems to only be available for the front. The same for willwood. Any others?

Do the Eradispeed allow for some movement of the disc independent of the hat? Will they last a season of HPDE (and maybe TT next year)? Can they withstand high friction pads?

I know using the stock delco rotors and changing them often is a good option, just would like to cut down on the number of times I change rotors a year.

Any input would be appreciated
Matt

AU N EGL

they will last or should last part of the season. Not sure if they are worth the expense vs just changing OEM rotors every 3 or 5 weekends. If you do get them dont get drilled of cast in holes. Then for sure they wont last more then a weekend.

If your going to run a TT series check the rules very very carfully first. Could bump you up into a higher HP class.

ghoffman

How did you crack the rears? Do you run with the active handling on?

CHJ In Virginia

What type of cooling are you using on the rotors and brakes? Before I invested in special rotors, I would increase cooling air flow to the front and rear rotors. Search other posts, there have been numerous discussions with different ideas to effectively cool.

John Shiels

You need cooling if you don't have as stated above Wilwood does make a two piece rotor for the back which allows the E-brake t work. You may need their caliper also for it to work. Better with NAPA's and junk them vs. the Eradispeeds I would think.

MattB

I was running with the competitive mode a lot of the time, the track was real slick and I'm still learning. I was thinking that the 'competitive mode' would show me where I was not smooth. I figured that was the real cause, that the AH was hitting the rear wheels. I didn't notice it much so I guess it didn't help me learn, but that does not say much I don't use the competitive mode often, but with the track conditions I gave it a try.

Got me to thinking though, and I would like to stay out in front of this issue. I'm putting spindle ducts on the shopping list for next year as well.

jkonkle

put on the brake cooling duct's - if you can get the cooling duct's for the Z06 add those to the stock C6.

Baer eradispeed are fine, no - drill's or cast holes - don't care what they say. I smoked a pair of fronts in about 7months of monthly HPDEs.

Here are my latest BAER's taking the heat!!

Also, consider dropping the rotor size if you have Z51, you'll get a better deal on the rotor's. Two piece expect to pay about $180 for the rotors and $50-60 for hats, so the inital buy will be about $500 for fronts.

John Shiels

Instead of 7 months of monthly HPDE everyone should track the mileage at the track for a true picture.

AU N EGL

average 125 miles per day or 250 per weekend.

In 2005 I did 15 events, ave 250 miles / day ~ 4,250 miles on track

3 sets of front rotors, 2 sets of rear rotors ( Napa $25 each )
10 rotors = $250

4 sets of front brake pads, 2 sets of rear brake pads

Wilwood H pads or PFC-01 pads, Average 380 / set f & r

(380 x 2) + ( 200 x 2) = $782

3 bottles of Castrol SRF at $62 / bottle = $186

total for brake parts = $1281 in 2005

I also spend lots of time inpsecting everthing in each wheel well to make sure EVERYTHING is tight.

One MUST not skip on pre-event inspection. If your busy and who isn't these days, do your pre-event inspection the Satuday or sunday moring the weekend BEFORE your event.

No such thing as a DD corvette and take it to the track on weekends. Not possible

If you do, put your name and next of kins name and phone number on your forehead.

jkonkle

I would agree with this if you were already a consistent driver.

If you are new driver and aren't driving the car toward the edges yet then you could, theoretically, push the car harder via brakes by adding better tires and suspension. In addition, braking deeper and getting on the gas sooner will impact brake wear.

In the first 7 months of my driving I went from novice to advanced - this greatly affected the wear on the rotors and required a pad change.

Anyway, mileage is a good thing to watch, but paying attention to the rotors, i.e. taking off wheels and doing a visual inspection is a good idea as well.

Frankly, I find the solid rotor's to be a lot hotter than the two piece. I ran the stock z51 front's as a backup for one weekend and the difference in heat coming off them was significant!! The 2-piece are also slightly lighter.

Well, that's all I've got on it for now. I do like Au N EGL's writeup on pricing!! I've just put the new baer rotor's on the existing hat's I had from the first set of slotted/drilled that warp'd then cracked!! So far they have some spines in the meat of the rotor, but nothing worth worrying about!!

JK

AU N EGL

seat time and skill

A lot of ppl ask me why I dont have a BBK set up?? I can go deeper and brake harder them most cars with a BBK. That being said I am looking and talking with Gary Hoffman about his set ups.

More winter mods ??

Fastguy

For the cost, they weren't really worth it to me. Mine cracked apart.
They still have a ton of meat on them, but they are full of spiderwebs.
I think this is partially due to the ceramic pads I had on there.

ghoffman

Yes, very due to ceramic pads used at the track. Street use only, not to be used at the track at all. Come to NHIS Oct 20 and I'll show you what brakes are supposed to work like on my C6Z.