DIY alignment c4
10-29-2006, 09:13 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
DIY alignment c4
I picked up a digital camber/caster (Smart Camber) tool that seems pretty ez to use & accurate. The same company has a deal called SmartStrings but I don't know how well it works on C4's. It's for setting toe I guess. What do you guys use to set F/R toe on c4's?
Thanks.
Thanks.
10-30-2006, 08:49 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
If the SmartCamber tool has a toe attachment that would probably be the easiest thing. I use the Pole Position DIY tool with the toe attachments ... pretty simple with just a tape measure.
You could also try Hardbar's new alignment tool.
You could also try Hardbar's new alignment tool.
10-30-2006, 05:13 PM
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by astock165
If the SmartCamber tool has a toe attachment that would probably be the easiest thing. I use the Pole Position DIY tool with the toe attachments ... pretty simple with just a tape measure.
You could also try Hardbar's new alignment tool.
You could also try Hardbar's new alignment tool.
10-30-2006, 05:15 PM
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by UstaB-GS549
I used fishing line and jack stands. It's slow, but accurate.
Did you ever write up the procedure? I'm pretty new to alignment stuff, want to learn.
10-30-2006, 07:06 PM
#7
Drifting
(2) 1" Sch 40 PVC plastic pipes about 7 feet long.
Drill an 1/8" hole thru both walls of both pipes 1/2" from the end.
Use the drill bit to pin both pipes together.
Drill an 5/32" thru both pipes at the same time 72" from the end.
While they are still pinned together drill thru both pipes at 76" and 80".
I don't hink I used these holes , but it's easy to do now.
(2) 24 foot lenghts of the the heaviest fishing line you can find. Monofilament works and is hard to see. I had some old black polyester stuff but ran out. carpet thread will work too.
Tie string to pipe thru matching holes.
One pipe goes at each end of car on something that will hold it off the floor near the centerline of the wheel. 13" or so.
At this point you will have two paralell strings running along sides of car.
You can do the trig if you want, but the strings will always be parallel.
Now comes the time consuming part.
I made 4 wood 2x6 stands with a 1.25" hole drill thru 13" from floor to support pipes. Jack stands will work too if you have 4.
Slide pipes sideways in their supports until the two strings are parallel to the car's centerline. Use a steel ruler to measure from the same place on the rim to the string. When the back measurements are equal do the front pipe. Go back and check the rear pipe when the front is equal. After checking and adjusting a few times, you will have the strings close enough. The track is not the same front and rear so keep this in mind. I think I had a gap of 2-4" between the wheels and strings.
Now your toe settings are just measured from the front and back of the rim on the same wheel. I think I was able to adjust tie rod ends from the top with the hood up on the C4.
This is accurate, but it is for guys with more time than money... like me.
Drill an 1/8" hole thru both walls of both pipes 1/2" from the end.
Use the drill bit to pin both pipes together.
Drill an 5/32" thru both pipes at the same time 72" from the end.
While they are still pinned together drill thru both pipes at 76" and 80".
I don't hink I used these holes , but it's easy to do now.
(2) 24 foot lenghts of the the heaviest fishing line you can find. Monofilament works and is hard to see. I had some old black polyester stuff but ran out. carpet thread will work too.
Tie string to pipe thru matching holes.
One pipe goes at each end of car on something that will hold it off the floor near the centerline of the wheel. 13" or so.
At this point you will have two paralell strings running along sides of car.
You can do the trig if you want, but the strings will always be parallel.
Now comes the time consuming part.
I made 4 wood 2x6 stands with a 1.25" hole drill thru 13" from floor to support pipes. Jack stands will work too if you have 4.
Slide pipes sideways in their supports until the two strings are parallel to the car's centerline. Use a steel ruler to measure from the same place on the rim to the string. When the back measurements are equal do the front pipe. Go back and check the rear pipe when the front is equal. After checking and adjusting a few times, you will have the strings close enough. The track is not the same front and rear so keep this in mind. I think I had a gap of 2-4" between the wheels and strings.
Now your toe settings are just measured from the front and back of the rim on the same wheel. I think I was able to adjust tie rod ends from the top with the hood up on the C4.
This is accurate, but it is for guys with more time than money... like me.
10-30-2006, 09:36 PM
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Sounds like a good plan, pretty much the same as the "Smart Strings" tool I guess. Just lots of measuring. The stands that hold the pipes have to be heavy enough so that you can draw the strings tight.
With smart strings I guess the frame that "hangs off" the car does the same duty.
Thank you.
With smart strings I guess the frame that "hangs off" the car does the same duty.
Thank you.
Last edited by froggy47; 10-30-2006 at 09:39 PM.
10-31-2006, 09:15 AM
#9
Pro
Member Since: Apr 2005
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
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At one point I built a complete set of alignment tooling for my C4. Too long to explain how I did it. For toe adjustment, use a "Trammel Bar".
I built one recently out of square aluminum tubing. The bar is "C" shaped. The long center spans the width of the car and the two shorter section reach mid wheel height. I used pop rivets and braces to assemble the sections. On one short bar I installed a long allen head screw that can be moved in or out relative to the short beam. On the other beam I mounted an inexpensive micrometer. Both the micrometer and allen head screw were positioned at the wheel center height on the machined lip of the rim. The front and rear track on the C4 differ so I would adjust the allen head screw position so that when the assembly was located on the wheel rims, the micrometer was at the mid range position. I would position the allen head contacting one rim and would position the micrometer in the same place on the rim of the opposite wheel. I would record the micrometer reading with the trammel bar on the front of the rim. I would then move the trammel bar and measure the micrometer reading at the rear of the rim. The difference in micrometer readings is the the toe reading.
Larry
I built one recently out of square aluminum tubing. The bar is "C" shaped. The long center spans the width of the car and the two shorter section reach mid wheel height. I used pop rivets and braces to assemble the sections. On one short bar I installed a long allen head screw that can be moved in or out relative to the short beam. On the other beam I mounted an inexpensive micrometer. Both the micrometer and allen head screw were positioned at the wheel center height on the machined lip of the rim. The front and rear track on the C4 differ so I would adjust the allen head screw position so that when the assembly was located on the wheel rims, the micrometer was at the mid range position. I would position the allen head contacting one rim and would position the micrometer in the same place on the rim of the opposite wheel. I would record the micrometer reading with the trammel bar on the front of the rim. I would then move the trammel bar and measure the micrometer reading at the rear of the rim. The difference in micrometer readings is the the toe reading.
Larry
Last edited by Vetracr; 10-31-2006 at 09:20 AM.
10-31-2006, 01:37 PM
#10
Drifting
The uprights on my wood stands are 2x6 and the base plates are 1/2" plywood about 8" x 12". They are heavy enough to keep fish line tight... until I trip over it. 
A micrometer is nice, but a steel rule with markings in 64ths works nice too.
1/16" difference between front and rear of rim is about .25 degrees.
A micrometer is nice, but a steel rule with markings in 64ths works nice too.
1/16" difference between front and rear of rim is about .25 degrees.
10-31-2006, 09:53 PM
#11
Drifting
I just use a set of toe plates and the measuring tapes that came with them. Basically just 2 flat metal plates that sit against the rims, with notches in the end of them to hold the tapes. To set the rear thrust angle I just use a level with a built in laser pointer, base it off the toe plates in the rear, then measure the distance off of the front tire. Not perfect, but seems to work fine for me. I have a smartcamber also that I use for camber settings, they are nice but the hands free option has never worked for me.
