jdonnelly

Hi:

I am looking to purchase a 20 foot aluminum V nose trailer. How easy or not is it to get in and out of the C5 FRC in an enclosed trailer? My drivers door just clears the fender on my steel open trailer and I can just jump in and out.

The vette is not a track rat and I am not as agile as I used to be. I want to avoid climbing out windows.

Any other info will be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Jeff

AU N EGL

No offence a 20' may be too small. i.e. the axle wt and tires may not be enough carring capasity of the trailer to hold a 3200# vette plus a 3,000# trailer.

First look at the load capcity of the trailer, axles and tires of the trailer. Need at least #7,000 capacity.

the distance between the front tie downs and the rear tie downs are about 20' may be 18'. You wont have much room for any other stuff.

I have a 24' enclosed, which I think is the minium for safe towing weights.

I drive in the trailer and climb out the drives side window. There are custom made trailers that have doors on the drivers side, but you still wind up climbing out the vettes drivers window as the door can not or may not open.



Last what do you plan to use as a tow vehical??

jdonnelly

I have a 2500 Yukon that I tow with and the trailer has an 11,000 pound capacity. My present Parker steel trailer weighs almost as much as the enclosed aluminum one.

Jeff

gpm30236

you can have ramps made to raise the car, up above the wheel wells to where u can open the door,

you will need a left side door to do this. also you are raising the center of gravity for the load,

NEED TO BE EXTRA CAUTIOUS on curves.

All Aluminium construction will save you some weight but cost $$ . generally they also have very good build quality. another thing to consider is adding the tow hooks to the car and using a winch to get it up into the trailer, That is how i do mine. means only climbing in the car to get it out. leave it idling in neutral and walk up the ramp next to the steering .

AU N EGL

Cool the Yukon will pull anything. Still look at that 20' enclosed, what is the capacity of the 20 footer??

It is not the weight OF the trailer, but the weight OF the trailer PLUS the weight of the vette and junk. Most 20' dont have that capacity for 7000#

XPC5R

As long as you have 3500lb axles, you'll be fine there. As for loading, get a winch. I ended up with a Superwinch 3000lb unit, and a wireless remote, it makes the load a stress free operation. Otherwise you petty much have to climb out of the window unless you have a side escape door and low fenders, or raised floor runners.

speedjohnson

I pulled my C5 around OK in a 20' enclosed trailer... but you'll have to practice up on your calestenics as the only way out is through the window.

I've seen one that had the floor built up and an entry door installed on the side. This got the car up high enough to get the drivers door to clear the trailer wheelbox and then exit/entry was through a side door.

wtknght1

Yep, that's the way mine was...but unfortunately I just sold it. Enjoy it Tim!!

jdonnelly

I am going to up grade the axles to give me an 11,000 total weight. It is the climbing out of the window that I really want to avoid.

I have done some DE's with the C5 and vintage race a 65 Mustang. Last race was 3 ays of rain and I made me decide to trade up to an enclosed box.

I have a Dayton winch on my present trailer but the battery never seems to have the ***** to get the car up the ramps when I need it. How do you winch guys keep the winch battery 100%?

Thanks

Jeff

Gary2KC5

I just bought a 22' V-nose trailer, here are a few things I learned:

#1 a 20' trailer will be OK but you will probably want something a little longer eventually. It was a minimal cost to go from 20 to 22'.

#2 my trailer probably cost lest than half what an aluminum trailer would. It weighs 3050# with a capacity of 7100#. Plenty to handle a Vette, tools, fuel, tires, etc. and still pull with a 1500.

#3 even with the escape door option (<$300) you will need to get the car up to open the door. several ways to do that. I put in 3 10'x12z2 boards for a ramp on the D side. after observing many club race trailers I found this to be the most used method.

#4 I never used a winch even though I had one in the trailer I used before buying mine.

#5 you can usually order a "race" package that includes tie down D rings, and other stuff, but most importantly a dove tail rear end. Critical to getting a sports car from scraping the front. of all the trailers I've seen in use, even the high dollar one need some kind of ramp assits like the previously mentioned wood.

#6 aero is important, I love the V-nose but you may want to get a sway control also. cross winds can be a bitch with an enclosed box.

01C5fan

I have a 20' enclosed and it's been fine for 4 years. As others have said, if you build up the floor with 2x12s you can get the door open. You should then be able to squeeze out with the window down and no left side exit. My C5 is a coupe so it's not an issue for me. I do have a winch and use it from time to time. It's a good idea to charge the battery the night before you travel. I also carry a battery charger just in case. For whatever reason, my Suburban does a lousy job of charging the trailer battery. Also make sure the straps/cables you use to winch the car are in good shape. It's not fun if they fail. Don't ask me how I know this. Good luck with your new trailer.

varkwso

Unless you get a door in the side of the trailer and/or ramps or a 10,000pound winch inside you will have to climb out the window. It is not too bad I do it with my FRC and ZO6 pretty often. Once you go enclosed it is very hard to go back

jeff

undertaker

I'm using a 24 ft enclosed, I have a winch, but have never used it, I don't have a driver's side door, and do the window dance, its really not too bad, I use a fender cover over the door and haven't put a mark on the car, I kinda like the 24ft size because there's a solid 6 ft in front of the car 2 of which are cabinets then 4 ft of floor space, leaves me lots of room for little junk on the floor ie tires (before I made up some racks), methanol cans, gas cans, small air compressor, jack, generator etc. Of course I also wanted the trailer for my 55 chevy down the road as well as the vette right now. I have 5K axles, trailer is 3500 or so empty and loaded I'm guessing 8K, I'm towing with a bastard *** (502 ramjet, 4l80E, 9.5 inch 14bolt with 4.10's, oversized drums, calipers, hydroboost brakes, air bags oversized sways etc.) old body style tahoe and it gets the job done but I'm moving up to a 2500 suburban in the next year or two (debating used 8.1 or new 6.0 with a blower, or hold out for a possible big block or hopefully a diesel in 08)

pretty much you have the truck to tow whatever you can put behind it.......that 2500 will have no problem towing a 32 ft enclosed with 10K of weight in it, I'd go with the 24 and have the extra room if I were you....Also might want to look around to see if you can find one already setup, they pop up from time to time, if you decide its too big/small whatever its less of a loss to pick up another...as long as the thing is clean, everything works and it has functioning brakes and good tires, you're good to go.

jdonnelly

Thanks for all the replys. I am going to look into the escape door and some sort of ramp do raise the drivers side.

Jeff

provette67

If you are having it built give them a specific heigth for the inside of the escape door clearance.I did this on my last two trailers and it is no problem to get in and out of with my lowered Z06.As said here earlier you can put some 2x12 down to get the job done as well.Another thing to consider is the extension of the ramp door again to help with loading a lowered car.

vettmike

I carry my C-4 lowered vette in a 22.5 foot trailer, i designed the trailer to allow the drivers door to open. This is the only way I can get my fat a$& out of the car.

I upgraded the axles to 5200 pounds and the hubs to 10,000 pound and the wheel/tire size.

BTW this trailer is for sale, cost $6,000.

All new tires.

vettmike

Solo2GS

With my 24' Carson Racer Deluxe and my lowered C4 I as well have to climb out the window. A very interesting site as I am 6' 5". I have been thinking about putting a handle or two in the wall to help in getting in & out of the car! With 24' there is plenty of room for whatever you want and the cost between 20' & 24' was about $200. Only wish I had seen a V nose, but know one around here seemed to carry them. I would think it might help on the fuel economy while towing some...

Diesel is the way to go. Fully loaded I an tow up any hill at just about any speed and still get the same mileage out of it!

vettmike

BTW, we tow with a diesel Excursion, your tow vechile MUST be able to control what you are towing, and a tow vehicle that is too small will not stop a big trailer.

Mike