SCEMO

I was hoping for a little advice from my fellow road racers on which clutch is the best for tracking the car. I am on my third Spec III and it's on it's last leg. Being that it's my third ... I will NEVER use Spec again. Has anyone heard of the Ram HD (Heavy Duty)?

Exody vs. McCloud vs. Textrailia? What'chu guys think?
Thanks in advance ...

John Shiels

what motor do you have? I have a stock LS6 clutch which is fine for speed shifting with 450 HP/400 TQ motor

ghoffman

Is it a track only car that gets winched on the trailer?

John Shiels

hope mine is by next spring and I'll get the 5" clutch

ghoffman

Tilton or QM 5.5 inch

SCEMO

I love this site ... enthusiastic members just waiting to share knowledge ...

It's cammed ... roughly 420HP/390TQ. It gets tracked quite a bit. No, it is not a trailered car (it may be really shortly here) and at times is driven on the street. I don't care about pedal pressure being excessive.

Timz06

don't slip the clutch, don't do burnouts or drop the clutch, do good heel and toe downshifts, the stock clutch will work fine.

JonLT4CE

I have a RAM 900 and it doesn't give any problems execpt extreme chatter starting out. On the track it's flawless.
I heard the 980 twin disc is much better.

ghoffman

Yes, but the thing about a Quarter Master or Tilton 5.5 inch clutch is the low inertia. Any OE style clutch feels like molasses compared to a real race clutch due to the very low inertia. The down side is that they cannot tolerate a lot of slipping like a street clutch can.

63Corvette

I concur.......but you did say "RACE", cause you will have to winch it onto the trailer.

RAFTRACER

How have you hurt 3 separate SPEC stage 3's ???? What kind of time frame and how many miles.............Seems a little absurd. I have had a SPEC stage 2+ aluminum/aluminum in my autocross car for 2 1/2-3 years and knock the complete dog crap out of it. burnouts, abrupt up-shifts, no mercy downshifts etc, all on sticky tires and it is still good. I am interseted to here of your symptoms.
We use alot of SPEC clutches , and I have been hapy with them for most applications that aren't going to be wenched into trailers.... ( I know lower MOI, Gary ). The nice thing about what I use is that it is 22lbs lighter than stock, but still operates like stock for street operation (or loading into trailers). The only SPEC clutches I have known to prematurely fail where ones that have exposed to oil from leaks ( ask me how I know ).
With that being said , no matter whose clutch assy you decide to use lighter is better, and if you can tolerate a reace only clutch , smaller is better too, but if you have smashed 3 spec 3's, I dont think that you would be interseted in a higher maintanance small multiple disc clutch.

racerwannabe

i'm not a national level driver ,but i have dogged a few..spec has worked well in my cars.i have an exedy twin disc in my high horse power car and has put up with 3 motors now..the race clutches are fine as long as you DON"T slip it ..randy suddreth ruind one in the first weekend he had it ..we didn't know any better..call tom at carolina clutch..he has given me great advice and even better service...
johnny

AMERICANMUSL

I've used quite the gambit of clutches since I was sixteen(a gearhead until I die-all manual tranny's) through a variety of cars and motors...learned the hard way with not going with what has been tried and true like McCleod, Centerforce, Ram, Hays, Stock, Luke, Spec, Exedy...for what you are describing, best bang for you buck is Centerforce(specifically the Dual Friction)...just slightly 3-5 lbs increase of pedal pressure under a load over a C5 Z06 clutch...for me proofs in the pudding(20k miles of 20 or so track events and daily driver spirited driving in my DRM C500RSR (382 stroker)with no observed slippage...cars numbers approx SAE 580 hp 565 tq after mods.
Just make sure all hardware is professionally balanced after you purchase it!!

Now dedicated track car, no contest- Tilton/Quartermaster/Sonic!!

My 2 cents!

redvetracr

If anyone is interested I have a brand new Quartermaster 7.25" 26 spline triple disc clutch, the Pro Series clutch NOT the (cheaper) V-drive. $450 owns it Delivered in the lower 48 states. This is the same clutch Irv Hoerr gets $750 for. (QMI#399050) e-mail direct!! redvetracr@msn.com

5W0P3

I have a mcleod twin disc and a mcleod aluminum flywheel... very nice, just make sure you use a stock master cylinder, you wont like the mcleod one.

JVetthead

Do you mean the 399150? Does this clutch require a special flywheel or slave cylinder?
Oh I found the 399050..

yakisoba

I've not had problems with the stock clutch. Now, it could be I been eating hamburger all this time, and have no idea what good steak tastes like... but the stock one seems to work pretty good. I mean, on the road course, I know when the shifts are coming. I guess I might get a little faster response from a stiffer clutch, but it's last in a long line of upgrades.

davidfarmer

I drove my old car into my old trailer regularly, using a QM 5.5" 3-disc clutch. They are more forgiving than you'd think, although a winch is always better (even with OEM style clutches).

A QM clutch and F-body flexplate will save around 40lbs off of your rotating mass. Combine this with an aluminum, underdrive damper from ATI, and you'll be amazed at the extra zip you'll get, even though technically you won't get any extra power. Makes saving a pound or two one expensive wheels seem like a total waist of time, since the flywheel rotates AT LEAST 3x faster than the engine (9x faster in low gears).

96CollectorSport

I've installed 2 of the Exedy single disc's (on separate cars) and they are a little more "grabby". But I think that is what a racing clutch sould be like. They handle good power and seem to be widely used, DRM, LPE and LG all seem to like them.