Cobra4B

Where exactly is the pressure sensor? I have installed a DeWitts racing radiator with left side integrated oil cooler. I used the LPE adaptor block to run the lines from the temp sensor area just above the oil filter area.

I know it's all installed correctly, the car performed flawlessly at VIR, oil temps stayed below 250, and ther are not drops/drips on my garage floor.

I realize at startup the cooler now has to be bumped full so I'm assuming this is causing the very quick message which goes away almost instantly.

The message really only pops up when the oil is cold and thicker, again it goes right away.

So... I'm wondering where in line the sensor is... I'm thinking the motor is never actually getting low pressure, but it's just taking longer for the oil to reach the pressure senso than when stock.

Wait isn't it under the intake manifold? I just want to make sure I'm not increasing engine wear at start.

No... an ACUSUMP is not in the budget... pre-oiling would indeed be nice.

Miaugi

I am also thinking of adding an extra oil cooler...going to wait and see what others think of the cause & effect.

Cobra4B

Well I just remembered, the pressure esnsor is under the intake maniold at the rear, so it's at the top of the motor.

Now that the cooler and all is in the lines and cooler have to fill up (lots to fill) vs. just filling the temp sensor housing which is what is removed and the LPE adaptor block is put in.

Thus, it takes longer for the oil to get to the pressure sensor... and it throws the message which instantly goes away.

I'm not worried... just trying to find out if I should be.

Slalom4me

• What weight of oil is in the engine?
• How are your cooler lines routed?
• Are there any other changes to the lubrication circuit?
• What kind of oil filter do you use?

Higher viscosity oil is slower to move when cold.
Line routing may increase or decrease likelihood of siphoning when off.
Other changes might contribute to greater psi drop.
Non-OEM oil filter might have different anti-drainback provisions.

.

John Shiels

now you need an Acusump to pre-charge the system.

Slalom4me

A Canton oil line check valve (#24-280) might be an inexpensive
and quick item to add if drainback is suspected.

View details at the bottom of this Canton page

#24-280 1/2" NPT to 1/2" NPT one way Check Valve.


A simple addition to insert where the supply line leaves the adapter
on its way to the cooler.

(Edit: valve would help with drainback, rather than with siphoning.)

Cobra4B

Running Amsoil 5w40 synthetic

Lines are routed so the cooler fills bottom up, then the return comes out the top.. routed along engine bay under left motor mount to left tank of radiator where cooler is.

No other changes to circuit... I do have a catchcan, but that's PCV.

I run a K&N performance filter, unsure if that affects anything.... I know it is a little free'er flowing.

I have a tiny bit of pressure drop 1-2 psi in all driving conditions as compared to pre-cooler, but again it's fine and is at 29psi at idle when hot and never fell below 40 psi on track when hot.

Cobra4B

Hmmm... that'd be a bitch to install at the adapter block, but I could easily put one from the feed line to the cooler. That should stop the oil from draining out of the cooler right?

Any thoughts?

I'm not sure what happens when the car is shut off.... does the oil all drain back to the pan? or does it stay in the lines/cooler?

Cobra4B

Looks like the K&N is suited very well to my app.

http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm

Has anti-drainback.

0Randy@DRM

The lifters also must get pumped up before the oil hits the sensor. I wouldn't worry about it at all. Even cars without coolers sometimes say low oil pressure for a sencond during cold weather start up.

Randy

Slalom4me

Oops, I misspoke.

My vote is that locating the valve in the supply line
would be beneficial. At the cooler inlet, it still
is able to restrain the contents of the cooler. By
creating a seal here, perhaps it prevents oil behind
in the lines from draining.

A test of the K&N Gold is promised here but has not yet
appeared. An interesting read if you have not already
come across it.
Engine Oil Filter Study

K&N states their filters have a-db valves (where applicable) - I'm
simply unaware whether the LSx engines call for these.
K&N Performance Gold Series "Anti-drainback valve (where applicable)
eliminates dry starts, prevents oil from draining back into crankcase
during engine shutdown"

I bought a filter cutter specifically to examine filters that had not
already been investigated in the site above. A set of snips works
adequately for a one-shot check.

.

Slalom4me

Another resource is the 'Bob is the oil guy' site (BITOG)

'K&N' is awkward for the search engine. Try 'gold performance filter'
as key words to see whether there are comments in the forums.

.

Cobra4B

Thanks randy... and to everyone. Today going out for lunch (car sat from 8:25 am until 12:10) it came up to 42 psi right away no issues.

I'll keep it as is for now... when I put my cam in I'll install an LS-4 (yes LS-4) pump which lows considerably more volume.

VetteDrmr

It shouldn't drain back, as there's nowhere for air to enter the oil cooler plumbing. I'd go with Randy: i've had the occasional low oil pressure indicator come on at startup, but if you watch your oil pressure on the DIC right at engine start, you should see some pressure buildup within about 5 seconds. If it goes to the point you start hearing valve clatter, then you can start worrying.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Cobra4B

^ Thanks.

C66 Racing

Mike,
Won't air get into the engine (via open intake or exhaust valves, around piston rings, via the dipstick, via the breather tube on the passenger side valve cover, etc, etc)? I think that the oil system will slowly drain back down into the pan on Brian's setup.

That said, I agree with you and Randy that this isn't a significant problem either as long as he sees oil pressure climb in a few seconds.

Brian,
Nice to have those water and oil temps staying at reasonable levels isn't it.

VetteDrmr

You're describing the oil that's not contained within the oil galleries that always gravity feeds back down into the crankcase and oil pan. I was referring to the oil contained in the galleries through the block, primarily. Once those are full you'd have to have some kind of siphon set itself up that would pull air into the system. That shouldn't happen, at least to any significant extent.

Have a good one,
Mike

BQuicksilver

Wow, I logged on just to ask this same question.

I'm running the Dewitts Left Side setup and LPE block as well. I am using a Delco Gold filter and Mobil 1 Extended perf 10w-30. I get the message for about 3-4seconds on cold start. I never had this message last winter before the oil cooler.

Glad to hear it should be okay. I have no interest in digging back into that plumbing.

Cobra4B

EXACTLY!!! that was a bitch w/ LT headers.

Very much so

Slalom4me

one-one-thousand, two-one-thousand, three-one-thousand ...

I understand that others here are telling you to ignore this,
that it is not a problem. But if you could do something
simple and see the oil pressure rise earlier, would you do it?

I was going to suggest trying an OEM style filter but BQuicksilver
has posted above about issues with a Delco Gold.

The Canton #24-280 check valve costs less than $20 but
appears to be ruled out because of installation difficulty.

With cooler oil, do you still need the same viscosity? A reduced
weight would see pressure come up quicker. As long as it stays
cool, it should maintain pressure during sessions. If it does not,
pressure will fall off gradually and you will be able to compensate
until you can revert to the 5W-40.

Is this the one? European Car Formula Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFL)

Amsoil also offers their 0W-30.
.

.