Cornerweight/alignment time...
#1
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Cornerweight/alignment time...
I am going to give the Pfadt Coilovers a try this season, and want to get a good cornerweight/alignment done. The car is a street driven car, that mostly autoXes, with some HPDEs coming (Im doing Thunderhill on Dec 11th)
1) Can anyone recommend an shop to cornerweight/align in norcal?
2) How do these specs look -
For the Z06, there's a pretty standard alignment, for autocross. Front camber should be in the negative 2.0-2.2 range, caster maxed for the camber, and zero to slight toe out (depending on what you like). Rear camber in the negative 1.2-1.4 range and start with 1/4" toe in. Ride height is also an important measure, because of the range of the adjusting bolts. We found that setting the front ride height a little bit above max lowering (on factory bolts) and then setting the back for a minimal rake (1/4" or so) worked well. For on site adjustment, I'd reccomend only messing with rear ride height and toe, since that will change the balance of the car significantly without messing up too much else.
3) Whats an ideal ride height? Mine is pretty dumped now, and I like it. Im on lowering bolts and shaved bushings now. I cant go toooo low as I have to street drive her, but any thinking on ideal ride height? I sit at about 1.5 fingers up front and 2 fingers in the rear for gaps, if that makes sense.
1) Can anyone recommend an shop to cornerweight/align in norcal?
2) How do these specs look -
For the Z06, there's a pretty standard alignment, for autocross. Front camber should be in the negative 2.0-2.2 range, caster maxed for the camber, and zero to slight toe out (depending on what you like). Rear camber in the negative 1.2-1.4 range and start with 1/4" toe in. Ride height is also an important measure, because of the range of the adjusting bolts. We found that setting the front ride height a little bit above max lowering (on factory bolts) and then setting the back for a minimal rake (1/4" or so) worked well. For on site adjustment, I'd reccomend only messing with rear ride height and toe, since that will change the balance of the car significantly without messing up too much else.
3) Whats an ideal ride height? Mine is pretty dumped now, and I like it. Im on lowering bolts and shaved bushings now. I cant go toooo low as I have to street drive her, but any thinking on ideal ride height? I sit at about 1.5 fingers up front and 2 fingers in the rear for gaps, if that makes sense.
#2
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Payne
I am going to give the Pfadt Coilovers a try this season, and want to get a good cornerweight/alignment done. The car is a street driven car, that mostly autoXes, with some HPDEs coming (Im doing Thunderhill on Dec 11th)
1) Can anyone recommend an shop to cornerweight/align in norcal?
2) How do these specs look -
For the Z06, there's a pretty standard alignment, for autocross. Front camber should be in the negative 2.0-2.2 range, caster maxed for the camber, and zero to slight toe out (depending on what you like). Rear camber in the negative 1.2-1.4 range and start with 1/4" toe in. Ride height is also an important measure, because of the range of the adjusting bolts. We found that setting the front ride height a little bit above max lowering (on factory bolts) and then setting the back for a minimal rake (1/4" or so) worked well. For on site adjustment, I'd reccomend only messing with rear ride height and toe, since that will change the balance of the car significantly without messing up too much else.
3) Whats an ideal ride height? Mine is pretty dumped now, and I like it. Im on lowering bolts and shaved bushings now. I cant go toooo low as I have to street drive her, but any thinking on ideal ride height? I sit at about 1.5 fingers up front and 2 fingers in the rear for gaps, if that makes sense.
1) Can anyone recommend an shop to cornerweight/align in norcal?
2) How do these specs look -
For the Z06, there's a pretty standard alignment, for autocross. Front camber should be in the negative 2.0-2.2 range, caster maxed for the camber, and zero to slight toe out (depending on what you like). Rear camber in the negative 1.2-1.4 range and start with 1/4" toe in. Ride height is also an important measure, because of the range of the adjusting bolts. We found that setting the front ride height a little bit above max lowering (on factory bolts) and then setting the back for a minimal rake (1/4" or so) worked well. For on site adjustment, I'd reccomend only messing with rear ride height and toe, since that will change the balance of the car significantly without messing up too much else.
3) Whats an ideal ride height? Mine is pretty dumped now, and I like it. Im on lowering bolts and shaved bushings now. I cant go toooo low as I have to street drive her, but any thinking on ideal ride height? I sit at about 1.5 fingers up front and 2 fingers in the rear for gaps, if that makes sense.
The car is low enough already if not to low. You may want to knock a slight bit of negetive camber off if you street drive it a bunch for tire wear issues.
#3
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Call Mark at MSI in Roseville, CA. They are a supporting vendor and great guys! They can do your setup and corner weighting. Later if you find your camber changing after banging the curbs, come see us for a camber kit used by winning World Challenge, SCCA, and NASA racers for a few years now. Available for the C6Z in 2 weeks, kit will include custom 17-4 PH alloy studs, washers and nuts so you can shim the uppers and dial in exactly what you want, and never, ever lose alignment again.
Last edited by ghoffman; 11-21-2006 at 08:55 PM.
#5
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The stock setup relies on friction only, and yes they move, especially with race tires. Many guys on this forum have had them move at a very inopportune time (like during a race). On a C5 or C6 (non-Zo6) the plates lock in the setting, but you can shim the uppers in and out to adjust camber or caster. On the C6Z, the uppers in the rear are like the fronts so they can be shimmed as well. Basically you specify what setup you want and the CNC machined plates are supplied for what you specify.
#6
You may want to check the Sears Point web site and see if they list their tennants. I've seen Corvettes in some of them. The ones I go in mainly deal with formula cars. Ron Chisholm at Cypress Lane Racing may be able to direct you a good shop. He's at Sears but dosen't do production cars. ronchisholm@cypresslaneracing.com
ThunderHill's a great track, I went past 2,500 laps teher this year.
ThunderHill's a great track, I went past 2,500 laps teher this year.
#7
Race Director
lots of race shops at Sears Point, and some very good.
Hardbars camber kit is awesome. You can make measurements and PRECISE camber changes just by swapping plates (say from 13mm to 16mm). Takes all of the concentric "slop" out, and a lot of the guesswork out of changing camber
For the record, I measure the offset of the stock location before taking them out, so you have a reference to work from. That way you can easily replicate and precisely change your settings without so much trial and error.
btw, 1mm at the adjuster is approx 0.1deg. SO if you move both adjusters on the front 5mm, that is just over half a degree. In the rear, since you only have one adjuster per a-arm, you need to double that. In other words, you would need around 10mm to get half a degree change. If you change both front adjusters the same amount, then you don't change castor any.
Hardbars camber kit is awesome. You can make measurements and PRECISE camber changes just by swapping plates (say from 13mm to 16mm). Takes all of the concentric "slop" out, and a lot of the guesswork out of changing camber
For the record, I measure the offset of the stock location before taking them out, so you have a reference to work from. That way you can easily replicate and precisely change your settings without so much trial and error.
btw, 1mm at the adjuster is approx 0.1deg. SO if you move both adjusters on the front 5mm, that is just over half a degree. In the rear, since you only have one adjuster per a-arm, you need to double that. In other words, you would need around 10mm to get half a degree change. If you change both front adjusters the same amount, then you don't change castor any.
#8
Race Director
Originally Posted by ghoffman
Call Mark at MSI in Roseville, CA. They are a supporting vendor and great guys! They can do your setup and corner weighting. Later if you find your camber changing after banging the curbs, come see us for a camber kit used by winning World Challenge, SCCA, and NASA racers for a few years now. Available for the C6Z in 2 weeks, kit will include custom 17-4 PH alloy studs, washers and nuts so you can shim the uppers and dial in exactly what you want, and never, ever lose alignment again.
I visited your site but I did not see the cam adjusters listed on your site.
Thanks.
#9
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Yes, I know, my site sucks, but she is totally revising it as we speak. If you want the instructions just email me.
ghoffman@hardbarusa.com
ghoffman@hardbarusa.com