Payne

Just to give you guys a heads up, I figured out a solution to mounting c6 brake ducts on the C5 last night, with minimal modification as follows:

C5 duct:
Remove the duct from the car, and using a hack saw cut off the last ~2" or so of the duct so that the end of the duct is the tabs used to hold the duct in the sheet metal fender well. This is needed for the c6 duct to line up and fit inside the c5 duct

C6 duct:
You must cut a few inches off this duct as well. I cut 3-4 times so Im not sure exactly how much, but I left about 2" past where the 'kink' is in the c6 duct ( where it flattens out to clear the wheel at full lock)

Heres the kicker... You then need to cut the c6 duct lengthwise down the duct past the kink about an inch, allowing the duct to double up over itself and fit inside the c5 duct. Take your time and cut a few mm at at time, and you will get it where the c6 duct wedges in between the c5 duct and the square mount for the shock. Im going to use some Silicon sealant to both glue and seal the ducts together.

Mounting the C6 duct:
I am mounting the c6 duct against the frame rail, but I am very skeptical about drilling the frame for the c6 duct mounting tab, so I came up with another soln - zip ties!

on the bottom front side of the boxish shock mount there is a small loop that will be the bottom anchor of the zip tie. For the top anchor, Im going to build a small sheet metal figure 8 'washer' to go between the front bolt of the front mount of the upper control arm, giving me a top hole to run the zip tie through. The two holes make a perfect line to hold the duct in place in the perfect location..


Pics will be coming at some pt.

Question:

Where do people put the cooling ducts against the disk?

PA Z06

sounds cool cant wait to see sum pics

tigerdrvr

You need to have the air flow directed to the center of the rotor, to allow any real cooling effect. Anything else is more cosmetic than effective.

Payne

How do you hit the center of the rotor when the hub is there?

Do you mean the center of the braking area of the rotor?

VetteDrmr

This is an utterly stupid question, but are you talking about the front or rear ducts?

Thanks, and have a good one,
Mike

Payne

Front ducts.

-JP

John Shiels

LG spindle duct places the air into the vanes and the plate keeps it in there some what.

tigerdrvr

Sorry, Jason, I should have been more clear. The air flow needs to go out through the vanes to be effective. Like John said, a solution that mounts the duct to the spindle is what is needed.

If air is just directed to the surface of the rotor, like stock, it really has very little cooling effect.

John Shiels

I put the plugs clip under the hose clamp

The other pieces I pop riveted two layers of aluminum sign material to shield the ball joint ends and I also wrap them.

when you get it to the vanes it will cool both sides better.

ace996

Those extra pieces of sheet are awesome...great idea!!!

freefall

agreed - good one john!

thetorch

Great idea John, what brand are the spindle ducts in the picture?

John Shiels

LG spindles. I ask Lou to make the aluminum plate the same or similar shape by extending it. then you would not have to add anything. Double layer works better anyway. it is tight but you can bend them a bit if need be. I still have the header wrap on the ends. I have posted this before a few times. Aluminum FS sign was 4 bucks and a few pop rivets, pop rivet gun and some tin snips.

2006c6keller

Gentlemen:

Please help us out and go into how we look up LG spindles? Please give us the WEB site so we know where to find them. Thanks! Great job guys!

gkmccready

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...roducts_id=788

tchapma1

I know it's brining up an old thread here, but do you have any pictures of the install? Any report on how well they work?

Thanks

Rob's 73

I just did this and it went okay on the first one and very easy on the second one.

On the second one I left the stock duct in the car and cut it off leaving about 2" left on the inside of the fender. I cut about 6 slits in it leaving flexible tabs. I then cut about 5 to 6 inches off the C6 Z06 duct (cut a few times so that you don't cut too short...I did on the first one). The C6 Z06 duct will then slide inside of the stock duct. Position it to where it brings the outlet close to the shock tower. If it won't go, you need to trim a little more off the C6 Z06 duct. Once I got it into position I drilled 1/8" holes in the tabs of the stock duct (from cutting the slits) and the C6 Z06 duct and inserted some pop rivets. This will old it very tight to where you really don't need to fasten the other end to the frame rail. But do it anyway. You can either put a self tapping screw inside the duct to the frame rail or use zip ties as Payne suggested. I then wrapped the joint in some black duct tape. I am very happy with the finished product. I'm even more happy that I didn't have to cut my inner fender. The kicker is that the C6 ducts are $8.35 each from the local GM dealer. My dealer had them in a day.

The outlet is only 2.5". Anybody have some suggestings for hose to take them all the way out to the rotors?

Solofast

Been mentioned here before, but WAG Aero (aircraft supplies) has 2.5 inch dia SCAT duct (it is the red silicone impregnated high temp duct).

I also think the black duct is less expesive and will work as well for what we are doing with it, the SCAT is a bit of overkill, but it is a bit more rugged and looks faster.

rustyguns

NICE!