Slow Z06

Well since I cant RR my bike for now due to it getting totaled, I am going to set the car up for that. My current list of imediate mods are:

T1 sway bars
T1 Saches shocks
Tunnel brace plate
4 18 x 10.5 Z06 wheels W/Hoosier slicks
Cornerweighted by LG

What else should I look at improving on the car for a reliable RR car? Yes I know seat time ( lots and lots of it...lol )

Jerry

davidfarmer

a good track alignment, and some brake ducts.

I'd skip the tunnel plate, but to each his own.

John Shiels

Better pads

How much money do you want to spend?

wtknght1

There's a lot to this. I didn't hear you say anything about safety - cage, belts, net, etc.

I also didn't hear you say anything about what class you are going to run in. Are you just doing this for DE stuff or do you actually plan to race it? If race, then you need to figure out the specific rules for whatever class you plan on doing (why not come into T1 with us?) and set up your car according to those rules.

Good luck!!

Slow Z06

Thanks for the replies. Looking to spend around 2-3k for this part of it. I love a car that handles like its on rails.

as far as cage and belts those will be round 2 of the continuing mod list. Unless I get good at this then it will be raced, but for now will just be track days when I can get away from work.

Slow Z06

What would I need to do to setup for T1?

AU N EGL

Skip the tunnel plate, too much heat.

0C5stein

A stock Z06 handles very well with a good alignment, corner weight and good DOT Compound tires, so I would start with these mods + Seat and Racing belts.

The seat and belts are worth more to lower lap times on the track than you will get from Sachs shocks and T1 bars.

Why do you want to run 18s all the way around? Are you planning on a brake upgrade? If not I'd stick with the 17 x 9.5 and the 18 x 10.5s. Run V710s 275/40/17 up front and 315/35/18 on the rear. Skip the tunnel plate unless you get one of our ceramic coated units, and put some PFC 01 brake pads on it all the way around, that is enough brake for most guys that do DE. Brake cooling ducts are a good idea too.

PS. Your car looks pretty low. If it were me I'd raise it up a bit to regain more correct roll centers, compression travel and camber gain.

wtknght1

There's an actual GM T1 kit (sway bars, springs, front control arms, etc.). If that's what you are possibly looking at in the future, you might want to start building the car toward those specs. T1 does require a full cage, seat, belts, etc though.

My best advice if you are planning on going that way is to go buy a car that's already T1 prepared. You'll save a ton of time and $$ in the long run.

Contact Joe Aqualante at Phoenix (jfaphoenix32@aol.com) for more info on cars and set up options. They are the best!

John Shiels

Tunnel plate reduced my heat can't say if it helped handling. It couldn't have hurt but there are better ways to spend money. I got it for nothing as a test.

Slow Z06

Thanks for all the info. As for raising it back up, that was my intention after i procured all the parts to start the transformation. The 18's all around, I might have been mistaken but I remember reading somewhere that they were good upfront for RR. Again I apreciate all the input I am getting here, it will help me in spending my money better to achieve my goal.

I have been told also the if I were to toe in the rear tires I would get better traction also to set up the front based on BMW M3 specs. Can anyone enlighten me on better specs to run? Thanks


Jerry

95jersey

If reliability is your concern, then get all the coolers.

0C5stein

The best way to come up with alignment settings is to have the car 4 wheel aligned, then get tire temps across the face of the tire after each session and yo will be able to determine the best tire pressures and alignment settings for you. Alignment settings for road racing are very driver unique. They are also dependent on which tires you choose to run.

I would start with a mild track/Aggressive Street set up and then go from there.
Front
Caster 7.5
Camber -1.0
Toe in 1/16 total
Rear
Camber -3/4
Toe - Zero to in 1/16 total

Start each session with 32# tire air pressure until you determine what is right for you.

wtknght1

I would toe OUT the front (not in) a 1/16th and go with a bit more neg camber in the front (-1.5). That seems to be a good compromise set up if you drive it on the street too. Other than that, those numbers look pretty good to me.

When you get ready to just track the car (or drive it seldomly on the street), then you can look at putting the T1 plates on the front which will give you about -3 up front. Then you can put about -1.5 in back.

0C5stein

Hi Chris,
I start people off with a bit of toe in on the front to allow them to learn the car. As skill and speed come up then we take "toe in" out and usually have to add more negative camber.

Falcon

Or, if you don't have that, you can alwys use the old standby:

davidfarmer

All you HAVE to do for T1 is a cage, seat, harnesses, and window net, HOWEVER you'll have a lot more fun with NASA if they run in your area. New ST1 and ST2 classes basically have NO rules, just power-to-weight limits. If you want handling, do it: If you want big brakes, do it: If you want Aero, do it:

T1 cars would run more or less in the ST2 class, 8.7:1 weight to power, while the ST1 class goes down to 5.5:1 I think (around 600HP in a production C5). Of course there is Super Unlimited if you make more power (or less weight) than that!

SCCA is way too political and uptight if you want to race just for some fun and good competition. NASA treats it's members a lot better, in my experience (15 years of racing).