ghoffman

C5/C6/C6Z upper A-Arm studs. Custom made from 17-4PH stainless steel 140,000 PSI, (note radiused thread root). C5/C6 kit includes 8 studs, 8 SS Nyloc nuts, 16 SS washers, retail $80. C6Z kit is 16 studs, 16 SS Nyloc nuts, 32 SS washers for $150.


Camber kit, left side of pic shows rear (or C5/C6 all corners) set, RH is front C6Z, retail $200 (full car set). Both camber and stud kits for C6Z $335, $275 C5/C6.



Oh BTW, and now for your convenience, we take all credit cards!

Cheers,

Gary Hoffman
Hardbarusa.com
603-682-8073

MattW_VA

Gary, what's the stud kit do for us?

John Shiels

http://books.google.com/books?id=6Kh...E6rI#PPA216,M1

found what root radius is

m3brad

ghoffman

What you do is use the camber kit to slam out the lowers to max camber and max track width. Then, to remove camber or add caster you shim the upper A-arms. With studs, it is easy to remove the 4 nuts, and the whole upper A-arm is off. Then you add or remove ( I have a stack for street, another for track) washers to change from street to track settings. It is way easier than bolts, with trying to hold 2-6 washers behind the a-arm while you are holding the upper..., and with the aluminum threads on the C6Z frame there is no chance of buggering the threads. It is super easy to optimize camber with zero chance of change during use, unlike the stock rotating cams which will move sooner or later.

gkmccready

I read the bit on page 217 and still don't understand it more than getting the stresses right has got to be a good thing.

Anybody have a radius root for work related stress? :-)

ghoffman

Sorry, very esoteric I guess, but it means that the fastener is tougher than having a sharp notch in the bottom of the thread. I just pay attention to this stuff.... Very geeky! Better pic of the thread root.

Bill Dearborn

I had studs installed on my 97. I didn't bother removing the A Arms when changing alignment I just loosened the nuts pulled the A Arm out a little and used regular alignment shims in place of the washers.

Bill

ghoffman

Yes, regular aglinment shims can work as well, but most of them are made for larger than the 10mm studs used on the C5 and C6, so I prefer 10mm washers for better fit. With the OE bolts you can run out of threads if you shim to a street setting, but with the studs you know that you have enough threads safely engaged. This is especially an issue with the aluminum C6Z, so these have 15mm (1.5 diameters) of thread engagement. Most studs are black oxide which gets rusty very soon, these will not rust.