GO_BLUE_VETTES

Does anyone know exactly what this is or how it compares to the Hardbar spacer and stud kit? @ only $65 I figure it can't be what you'd get fron Hardbar.


http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...&partnumber=C5

Look at the bottom of the page for T1 Camber Spacer Kit link.

AU N EGL

the GM T1 camber plates fix the negative camber so it is not adjustable, -3.2 degrees. front and -2.5 degrees rear.

Hardbard camber plates are a set of several differnt negative degreed plates.

Nether one of these kits are for street use, but for road racing.

HTH

gkmccready

Hopefully Gary responds, but I think with the new stud kit by Hardbar Gary is recommending using the camber plates to slam everything out to max negative and then using spacers on the studs to get your desired camber. This gets you max track width, and also lets you quickly change camber between street and track settings; then all you need is to set the toe.

ghoffman

Well yes, the GM plates do slam you out to too much camber. I am not sure what is included in that kit, but I don't think it is complete for the car and does not include the bolts. In any case, with a c5 or c6 you cannot use it in the rear because you will have too much and there is no way to shim the upper a-arms in the rear so we make plates in 0.5mm increments to dial in what you want.

davidfarmer

Actually, the GM plates are fine on some cars. They go about 5mm further than the stock concentrics can, or about 1/2 degree. The big bonus is that they lock the camber in place.

Hardbars plate kit is great, or you can make your own with some 1/8" steel and a 9/16" drill bit. The OEM concentrics are steel, and you can re-used the stock bolts if you make your own. The GM camber plates are very thick, which is why they require you to buy the bolts as well.

I just made a plate for Falcons car, and have done it on my own cars as well. Just get a strip of 1" steel, cut it the the width of the concentric, and drill the hole with the offset you need. I have dimension jotted down somewhere for quick refernce. 1mm is more or less 1/10th degree

davidfarmer

btw, here's a photo of a 18mm hardbar plate. The GM plates are the same, except the hole is all the way to the side.

. It is totally unnecessary for one to be round, as the cut-out in the subframe is the same on both sides. When tight, there is no damn way the things could move..



Hardbars are essentially the same, except they holes progress in 1/2mm increments across each plate. You get 6 (a full car set) of a ton of different offsets.

larryfs

who runs -2.5 in the rear??
I found anything over -1, maybe -1.5 max makes the rear unstable.

ghoffman

Exactly the point, no one should, hence the need for the Hardbar plates.

davidfarmer

most cars will NOT get over -1.5, maybe -2.0 in the rear, even with GM camber plates.

You MIGHT get over -2 on one side, and a LOT less on the other: this means your subframe is off-center, and you need to consider loosening the bolts, and getting it centered. OR, something is bent......


More rear camber helps handling, kills grip accelerating out of the corners.

Hardbars kit, or the DIY method, is the only way to get the alignment dialed in perfectly IF you do your own alignments, and have the patience and know-how to put them to work.

GO_BLUE_VETTES

Thanks for all the info guys. Sounds like the Hardbar kit is worth the extra $$$ for all the extra adjustability!

AU N EGL

I tried it. not any more.