JVetthead

Whats the dang deal? Nobody can balance a C-5 D/S ?
Went to 2 shops that said they could, looked at it and said WTF is this... Does/can anybody ck balance on these things?
Allready tried tech section, no response......

davidfarmer

no, replace it. You can get new bearings, as well as the aluminum shaft to replace, but by the time you buy the parts, you could have bought an entire unit.

It is a thin-walled aluminum piece, so I doubt it would measure much out-of-balance anyway.

LG has a carbon shaft that they claim holds up better, and lasts longer (due to less flex)

davidfarmer

btw, if you were having a vibration, it is either the bearings, OR you could have a clutch issue. If the pilot bearing is shot, it can let the nose of the torque-tube whip away from it's centerling, causing a vibration

JVetthead

I am doing a clutch, new front rubber coupler and alum. rear coupler and rear gear swap just thought I would ck balance for the heck of it..
Tweaked the runout to .004 so should be ok....
BTW left a post in HPDE sticky about the diff cooler fittings. Could not get anywhere on Fluidair site.. Do you have the specs on the metric fittings for diff?
Thanks,
Joe

DALE C

For the diff fittings give RPM a call the last time I was over there they had some of the fittings in. I meant to get the part number from Rodney and got side tracked. Their phone number is 800-406-1109.
Todd will fix you up

davidfarmer

Fluidair has them, I'll try and find the part #

davidfarmer

I'm pretty sure you need 10m20f80mxs. Trying to find my catalog to confirm...

**edit
yes, this is it 20mm to -10AN. You'll need to get an adapter to go from -10 down to whatever size fittings your plumbing, likely -6. You can get this from Earl's, summit, etc.

Joe_G

Thank you David for this information!!! I've installed a diff & trans temp gauge last weekend and was stymied when the adaptor from Autometer didn't fit the diff. I needed this information to order the right adaptor.

BTW, the standard adaptor that comes with the gauge fits the trans just fine.

Also BTW if anyone cares - this time I used a oil temp gauge that reads up to 300. On my stolen C5 I had a the trans temp gauge but it only read to 260. Mine used to peg at 240 and stayed pegged and not read until the trans completely cooled down.

ajg1915

Might want to contact ECS (East Coast Supercharging).

They make custom driveshafts for the C5 for $995 and probably have someone that can balance your shaft.

davidfarmer

here's the parker catalog

http://www.parker.com/tfd/cat/pdffiles/C-Triple-Lok.pdf

you need pg C16 and pg C25 for the above fittings. btw, you "s" at the end denotes steel (your only choice)

That diff fitting is pretty much the ONLY one they have with 20mm threads


**The trans uses a standard 1/2npt thread, which is very common. The 20mm is what makes the diff so much harder.

JVetthead

Thanks! Yep been trying to figure this out for a couple days..
Are you using ck valves at the suction and return to trans and diff?
Seems to me if not running the pump you would need them.
Thanks for your help,
Joe

JVetthead

Well I am allready going back together with it and keeping my fingers crossed...If it doesn't work out might have to go LG carbon
What type of shaft does ECS build?
Thanks,
Joe

ajg1915

They make a more solid one with U-Joints.

Don't have any pictures handy, but click on link, scroll to bottom.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1552683&page=2

davidfarmer

I've never run check valves, as the system is closed, and worse case, a tiny amount of fluid might flow back into the trans. Not enough to hurt anything. I've always had them on dedicated race cars, so the pump were always on.

btw, interesting torque tube setup. However, I don't know why you would need those u-joints, as it is a straight line connection. Also, but not running a flexible connection at one end, the aluminum can fatigue much quicker IMHO.

JVetthead

Yes, dedicated track car but I also autocross and didn't think it needed to run all the time. Also my coolers will be above the trans level a bit alot like AmericanMuscle's are (if you have seen the thread on his build) and was concerned about the drainback if not running pumps...
Should I not worry about this?
Thanks,
Joe

JVetthead

I have seen that D/S before..Any idea what the weight is compared to stock?
OK I am going to fess up....
Did not like the looks of the wear mark on the anti-whip device and...
the .012 runnout so.. I bagged it with 2 layers of carbon braided sleeves. Thinking (hoping) it would stiffen the shaft enough to slow the whipping. Let you know how it works in a few days..
Joe

LG Motorsports

Hi Guys,

I am sure that if you search our carbon drive shaft, you will find the full explaination of what is happening.

The problem with the stock driveshafts is that they bend. They bend not from the torque but the rpms whip them like a jump rope and they take a set. That leaves you with a drive shaft that has a slight arc in it and it vibrates as the rpms increase.

GM knew this was happening so they put a composite disc to limit how far the stock driveshaft could deflect. There is usually a worn out spot on the disc and a black rub line inside the torque tube from the shaft bending.

And since the drive shaft always moves at engine rpm, it can whip in any gear.

We have used our carbon shafts in 3 seasons of racing with no issues, and no vibrations. The carbon shaft is so stiff it doesnot need the composite disc on it like the stock one has.

Adding heavy ujoints is unnecessary and heavy. And in fact a throwback to the 1950's.

GM put a torque tube with this type of shaft in it for a reason. I would expect that the ujoints will also lose rear wheel hp by increasing driveline losses.

Nevertheless, using our carbon shaft is all you need. just install it and use only one rubber coupler for the street and one aluminum. Or, use our Carbon shaft with aluminum couplers at each end.

thanks for your time.

Lou Gigliotti

ajg1915

Thanks for the info. What is the Horsepower / Torque rating of the carbon fiber drive shaft.

Thanks

LG Motorsports

About 1000 + ft pounds of torque and 1200 hp. but remember that since this drive shaft never gets multiplied by the transmission it only sees engine torque. It is essentially a transmission input shaft extension.

thanks
Lou G

ajg1915

Thanks Lou for the quick reply. A definite piece to look into.