Car Trailer ratchet straps
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Car Trailer ratchet straps
So I need some new ratchet straps for my trailer this year and I would like some opinions on the snap hook straps that are typically used on car trailers.
I have seen both a flat snap hook design and a twisted snap hook. Are both versions equally as strong? The straps will be rated for 10K lbs (working load 3300lb).
I'm also curious if the staps can be twisted at 90 degrees and not lose any strength or if the twisting will cause problems with the material. I'm getting different opinions from some friends about how the straps should be installed.
The D-rings on the trailer sit flat on the bed so a twisted snap hook will cause the ratchet to sit upright for easy tightening. But the factory tiedown rings on the car are at right angles to the trailer D-rings. So wil this cause any problems? All of the straps will be 8' long.
I have seen both a flat snap hook design and a twisted snap hook. Are both versions equally as strong? The straps will be rated for 10K lbs (working load 3300lb).
I'm also curious if the staps can be twisted at 90 degrees and not lose any strength or if the twisting will cause problems with the material. I'm getting different opinions from some friends about how the straps should be installed.
The D-rings on the trailer sit flat on the bed so a twisted snap hook will cause the ratchet to sit upright for easy tightening. But the factory tiedown rings on the car are at right angles to the trailer D-rings. So wil this cause any problems? All of the straps will be 8' long.
#2
Team Owner
get the flat hooks the twisted are to high with the T hook and will bottom out. Don't ask how I know this. My ratchet still sits level even with the flat hooks there is a small piece of strap (few inches) in between the hook and the ratchet. This allows it to twist. Twisting the strap has no effect as long as it is not like a rubber band.
http://www.snappinturtle.com/ made in the USA
http://www.snappinturtle.com/ made in the USA
Last edited by John Shiels; 01-08-2007 at 07:47 PM.
#3
Burning Brakes
While we are at it, a friend of mine has ratcheting tie downs where the snap hook is connected directly to the ratch mechanism, not connected to a strap. The way my trailer is set up, I could really use ratchets like that, and have searched the web, but can't find them anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find something like that?
#4
Team Owner
Tri-State Towing Equipment in Westbury NY. That is how mine are actually and I got mine there 5 years ago. If you can't google it yell I dig up a phone book.
found it on superpages.com http://www.tristatequip.com/
found it on superpages.com http://www.tristatequip.com/
Last edited by John Shiels; 01-08-2007 at 08:38 PM.
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
While we are at it, a friend of mine has ratcheting tie downs where the snap hook is connected directly to the ratch mechanism, not connected to a strap. The way my trailer is set up, I could really use ratchets like that, and have searched the web, but can't find them anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find something like that?
#6
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I use the T&J Combo Hook in the factory shipping slots and Ratchets with snap hooks on the ratchet. Here is a link to the Hooks
(http://www.talcospecialties.com/web18b.htm)
He is fair in price and can fix you up with whatever webbing products and ratchets you need. I use twisted hook on the strap but I think straight would be fine also. I also have protective sleeve and D ring so my straps can be used as axle straps also. The sleeve is nice if the strap
bounces or rubs on framework.
(http://www.talcospecialties.com/web18b.htm)
He is fair in price and can fix you up with whatever webbing products and ratchets you need. I use twisted hook on the strap but I think straight would be fine also. I also have protective sleeve and D ring so my straps can be used as axle straps also. The sleeve is nice if the strap
bounces or rubs on framework.
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I've found a number of sources for T hooks and I will probably go that way. Having the snap hook already attached to the T/J hook would make it much easier to get the hook onto the car.
#8
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Tie Downs
Does anyone use the straps that go around the tire and strap to the side of the trailer. In my head these dont seem like they would keep the car from rolling? But if they worked well, they sure look easy to use and very handy.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ProSe...mZ320072898126
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ProSe...mZ320072898126
#9
Safety Car
#10
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Does anyone use the straps that go around the tire and strap to the side of the trailer. In my head these dont seem like they would keep the car from rolling? But if they worked well, they sure look easy to use and very handy.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ProSe...mZ320072898126
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ProSe...mZ320072898126
There are different types of wheel nets that could be used (Vulcan has some nice straps but they are pricey!) but from what I have read, there are different schools of though about how to tie the car down.
Using tire nets allows the suspension to move freely. If you tie the car down using the frame, the suspension will be compressed and not allow any (or at least very little) movement.
This company has some nice tire nets and the pic shows a C4 but you do need suitable rings on the trailer deck at the front and back of the tire and a ring in front to hold the wheels in place: http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/sc...ield=sortorder This sort of strap is fine for enclosed trailers where E-track is used on the trailer floor.
#11
Burning Brakes
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I have used ratching straps on mt trailers for years, the best way to get some is to do a google search on tie-down straps.
Remember some states (California for one) have a requirement that all tie down straps must have a rating of at least 10,000 pounds.
vettmike
Remember some states (California for one) have a requirement that all tie down straps must have a rating of at least 10,000 pounds.
vettmike
#12
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I have used ratching straps on mt trailers for years, the best way to get some is to do a google search on tie-down straps.
Remember some states (California for one) have a requirement that all tie down straps must have a rating of at least 10,000 pounds.
vettmike
Remember some states (California for one) have a requirement that all tie down straps must have a rating of at least 10,000 pounds.
vettmike
#13
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I have looked at 6 different sites for ratchet straps. Some of these sites do not show the strap load ratings and some do.
For most 2" ratchet straps designed for car hauling, the load rating usually shows a 10,000 lbs rating and a "working load limit" or "safe working load" of 3300lbs. The working or safe load is computed as 1/3 of the strap load rating.
There are some 2" straps that have a 5,000lb rating and a 1,600lb safe load limit. IMHO, these are not strong enough for hauling a Corvette on an open trailer.
I have found little difference in prices between the 5000lb straps and the 10,000lb straps. Most of the 10,000lb straps are in the $25 to $35 range for a 8 to 10' strap. The ratchets typically have wide handles and the metal is usually cadmium plated. Some sites even offer straps in different colors if you have to have something to match the car or trailer
For most 2" ratchet straps designed for car hauling, the load rating usually shows a 10,000 lbs rating and a "working load limit" or "safe working load" of 3300lbs. The working or safe load is computed as 1/3 of the strap load rating.
There are some 2" straps that have a 5,000lb rating and a 1,600lb safe load limit. IMHO, these are not strong enough for hauling a Corvette on an open trailer.
I have found little difference in prices between the 5000lb straps and the 10,000lb straps. Most of the 10,000lb straps are in the $25 to $35 range for a 8 to 10' strap. The ratchets typically have wide handles and the metal is usually cadmium plated. Some sites even offer straps in different colors if you have to have something to match the car or trailer
#14
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#15
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I really like the idea of tieing a car down with the suspension.
#16
Melting Slicks
For over 15 years I towed my vette in an open trailer using the D ring/E track over the wheel method. When I first started I used to use grease pencil to mark tire position. Even after a trip from Michigan to Sebring, it never moved so I quit doing it. Sold the trailer for an enclosed one, but the person I sold it to has continued to use that method without a problem. I found out from Circle Track magazine it was the recommended method for track cars. The reason many of them use the net method rather than just a strap is the low tire pressures they used vs. a regular car tire pressures.
#17
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For over 15 years I towed my vette in an open trailer using the D ring/E track over the wheel method. When I first started I used to use grease pencil to mark tire position. Even after a trip from Michigan to Sebring, it never moved so I quit doing it. Sold the trailer for an enclosed one, but the person I sold it to has continued to use that method without a problem. I found out from Circle Track magazine it was the recommended method for track cars. The reason many of them use the net method rather than just a strap is the low tire pressures they used vs. a regular car tire pressures.