Anyone know about paint?
01-10-2007, 05:33 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Anyone know about paint?
Ok, so i was pealing off some vynil and i ended up pealing off a large chunk (probably 2"x5") of paint. i want to repair this as cheaply as possible, so this (to me) means a couple of rattle cans and tape. here is a method i completely made up just now:
1. clean area
2. sand area
3. clean area
4. tape large box surrounding area (cover parts i dont want to paint)
5. primer (is this necessary? since there is primer/paint on parts)
6. paint
7. remove box
8. clearcoat
if anyone knows of a good diy website please link me.
ive been reading and it seems that if i do a small patch job instead of painting the entire panel, i will end up with a clearcoat line. Can i just clearcoat the desired area and then wetsand/rubbing compound the line?
it doesnt have to be overly pretty. its a racecar.
thanks
1. clean area
2. sand area
3. clean area
4. tape large box surrounding area (cover parts i dont want to paint)
5. primer (is this necessary? since there is primer/paint on parts)
6. paint
7. remove box
8. clearcoat
if anyone knows of a good diy website please link me.
ive been reading and it seems that if i do a small patch job instead of painting the entire panel, i will end up with a clearcoat line. Can i just clearcoat the desired area and then wetsand/rubbing compound the line?
it doesnt have to be overly pretty. its a racecar.
thanks
01-10-2007, 06:36 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Hey Wally,
It took me a whole weekend to de-decal my car. I finally got everything off and used laquer thinner to get the residue off. Without the heatgun, I could never have peeled them all off.
Your paint "system" sounds good to me. If you removed the tape before you clear coated the area, that would reduce the chance for lines in the clearcoat. Just be careful and keep the overspay to a minimum.
It took me a whole weekend to de-decal my car. I finally got everything off and used laquer thinner to get the residue off. Without the heatgun, I could never have peeled them all off.
Your paint "system" sounds good to me. If you removed the tape before you clear coated the area, that would reduce the chance for lines in the clearcoat. Just be careful and keep the overspay to a minimum.
01-10-2007, 06:41 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
yeah, i used a heat gun (10 bucks at harbor freight 
). however, i think there was a bubble in the paint, and it just let go.
i found a couple sites that sell paint code rattle cans, so this should be interesting to say the least.
). however, i think there was a bubble in the paint, and it just let go. i found a couple sites that sell paint code rattle cans, so this should be interesting to say the least.
01-10-2007, 06:54 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
What is the paint code rattle can sites? I know I'll need touchup paint somewhere along the line.
01-10-2007, 06:54 PM
#5
Team Owner
autobody supply by me will make what ever paint code you want and put it in a spray can. Then you clear coat over it with another can. Prep is the trick.
01-10-2007, 06:57 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
or
http://www.paintscratch.com/
they have this thing called clear coat blender. they say if you do your clearcoat, then spray the edges with this stuff, it will get rid of any ridge and blend it seamlessly. sounds good enough for me.
i mean, i cant really screw it up any worse than it already is.
i cant wait to see how yours turns out.
01-10-2007, 08:46 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
For a correct repair - just take it to the local body shop, couldn't cost more than $100 or so, then when you remove decals next year, the fue fue can paint won't be peeling off!
01-10-2007, 09:00 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
If its metalic paint it wiil never blend perfectly but if its a track car who gives a f***.. I have a track car and don't worry about it. Also have a waxer and about tired of all of that shine crap...my '77 project I believe is going to be satin black..
01-10-2007, 09:06 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i just want to do the best job i can. no sense in doing a crap job if i can do better for the same price.
01-10-2007, 10:13 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Good luck! next to metallic black is a real bitch.. If you spot the clear in it will come back to haunt you! Clearthe whole panel it last longer..
01-10-2007, 10:18 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Good luck! next to metallic black is a real bitch.. If you spot the clear in it will come back to haunt you! Clearthe whole panel it last longer..
01-10-2007, 10:24 PM
#12
This is more complex than you think...do some homework before you end up spending money and time on something that will cost you more to fix.
Plastic needs speacial plastic sealer before applying prime, basecoat, and clear coat. Also the type and grade of sand paper will determine much about how the paint bonds and how you finish will turn out.
one advantage you have is that it's black and you won't have to worry too much about matching colors.
Do you know anyone with a real spray gun and compressor? Low volume spray gun if possible.
I'm all for DIY but you can make things worse. Just research your repair before jumping in.
You have to make sure the surface is clean and prepped for painting also. Use the wrong cleaner and you will end up with fish eye and other chemical reactions.
I'm not a painter but speak from experience.
Plastic needs speacial plastic sealer before applying prime, basecoat, and clear coat. Also the type and grade of sand paper will determine much about how the paint bonds and how you finish will turn out.
one advantage you have is that it's black and you won't have to worry too much about matching colors.
Do you know anyone with a real spray gun and compressor? Low volume spray gun if possible.
I'm all for DIY but you can make things worse. Just research your repair before jumping in.
You have to make sure the surface is clean and prepped for painting also. Use the wrong cleaner and you will end up with fish eye and other chemical reactions.
I'm not a painter but speak from experience.
