BlueThunderousZ06

I know the bolts on CCW Classics are to be torqed to 30-32 lbs. What is the best RTV to use and what's the process to apply it?

Thanks.

davidfarmer

pure 100% clear silicone

this is for other 3-pc wheels I've had, presumably will work with CCW


Clean rim halves well, using a razer blade if necessary. Apply a thin bead between rim halves, then assemble using a cross-pattern, torqueing little-by-little.

Once done, you will have a nice bit of silicone squirting out between the rim halves. If you want, you can use a wet finger to smooth this out, but it isn't really necessary. Allow to dry at least 24hrs.

BlueThunderousZ06

Dave, I also need to use a 3/8" spacer on the front because I'm using 305 Hoosiers. They rub when I turn the wheel to full lock. Do I have to remove the front axle hub to remove the stock lug studs or can I remove them with the hub still on?

Do you know where the best place to get longer studs and good quality lug nuts?

davidfarmer

you can beat the stock studs out, but there isn't enough room to get the longer studs back in: so you need to remove the hubs.

you can use either of the ARP studs (Late GM Camaro etc), depending on the length you need. Summit racing has them. GM also makes a set of studs, but it is my understanding that the ARP studs are much better. See catalog attachment below


you may also want to temporarily consider hubcentric spacers, as they don't require taking everything apart. 1" is narrowist choice;

http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Ada.../5475-5475.htm

ccdan

davidfarmer is correct on the silicone! I'm in the process of creating/editing a video on the classic rebuild process. Little visual for everyone to follow. Should have it in the next few days.

Step One: Remove nuts & bolts
Step Two: Cut silicone w/razor blade (be carefully not to gouge/cut either of the wheel shells)
Step Three: Peal of bulk of silicone by hand and use a 3m Bristle Pad to remove the remaining silicone.
Step Four: When silicone is removed continue to use the Bristle Pad to lightly scuff both shells where the silicone sits (you'll see where it was done previously here at CCW)
Step Five: Clean the prepped surface(s) with alcohol
Step Six: Apply 100% Clear Silicone in a continuous bead around one of the rim shells (avoid gaps as air bubbles will occur). About 3/4in in diameter; depends on which wheel shells sizes are used but this will be enough for any and you will possibly have to wipe access of later.
Step Seven: Insert two of the bolts 180 degrees apart from one another and tighten to 30-32ft/lbs. If there were any air bubbles or voids in the silicone they will rise up/out.
Step Eight: At this point take your finger and smooth out the silicone while spinning the wheel. If there were air bubbles and the smoothing doesn't fix them apply more silicone in that area(s) and smooth again. Best result it no air bubbles on the first try!
Step Nine: Finish inserting the remaining bolts and tighten them in a star pattern to 30-32ft/lbs (same method as torqueing the wheels onto the car).
Step Ten: Allow to dry overnight 12-24hrs cure time before mounting or inflating.

3m Roloc Bristle Pad
We use these exact ones but you will only need a single one instead of a case.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

steve-d

These are great and used by many racers, to include LG.

PN is 22551491

As compared to the other studs, these have a nose to allow for easier threading of the lug nut.

Steve

BlueThunderousZ06

Thanks everybody for all the help, but now I need to remove the hubs.

All I need to do is remove the caliper and bracket, loosen the three bolts on the back of the hub and disconect the speed sensor wire?