C4 camber spacers
01-28-2007, 05:58 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
C4 camber spacers
I'm milling down the rear control arm spacer to obtain more camber on the drivers side. Actually I'm using a griding wheel, and I know I have to make the spacer real thin. My vise grips are running out of room.
How can I mill this to waffer thin without griding my fingers away?
The front spacer is easy, I just ordered another rear spacer, and will use that in front with a few shims.
The rear spacer is the problem.. It can only be made so thin, and then I will loose caster, if I gain all the camber with the front spacer..
How can I mill this to waffer thin without griding my fingers away?
The front spacer is easy, I just ordered another rear spacer, and will use that in front with a few shims.
The rear spacer is the problem.. It can only be made so thin, and then I will loose caster, if I gain all the camber with the front spacer..
Last edited by the blur; 01-28-2007 at 07:38 PM.
01-28-2007, 07:06 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
One way is on a surface grinder using a magnetic chuck
to hold the parts in place. Because the concave surface
is down and does not provide much area for the mag chuck
to act on, it can help to block the parts in place with strips
at either end to oppose grinding forces. If necessary, the
parts can be encased in wax or plaster.
Working freehand seems like it would be a challenge.
Run a file on a non-critical surface to confirm they
are not hardened. If not, consider tack-welding them
to a scrap of metal - perhaps angle iron that you can
clamp in a vise.
Another thought is to epoxy them to something bigger.
With enough heat, epoxy releases when you are done.
The trick is whether they will remain cool enough
during grinding to stay put.
.
to hold the parts in place. Because the concave surface
is down and does not provide much area for the mag chuck
to act on, it can help to block the parts in place with strips
at either end to oppose grinding forces. If necessary, the
parts can be encased in wax or plaster.
Working freehand seems like it would be a challenge.
Run a file on a non-critical surface to confirm they
are not hardened. If not, consider tack-welding them
to a scrap of metal - perhaps angle iron that you can
clamp in a vise.
Another thought is to epoxy them to something bigger.
With enough heat, epoxy releases when you are done.
The trick is whether they will remain cool enough
during grinding to stay put.
.
