I need some brake advice please....
#1
Racer
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I need some brake advice please....
I know this is cross-posting, since I have the same thread in the C6 tech forum, but I thought I would also ask the experts
So I finally have some track days coming up this year and I want to do some brake mods on my Z51 brakes.
My usage scenario is roughly;
75% of the time it is my daily driver, mainly highway and NorCal traffic
15% of the time it will be backroad corner carving and on/offramp terrorizing
10% of the time it will be doing some track days
Here are the options I am considering:
1.
Upgrade the rotors to 2 piece units from RacingBrake
http://www.racingbrake.com/Z51_s/3217.htm
And add stainless lines and Hawk HP Plus or HPS pads
2. Do a C6 Z06 brake conversion w/stainless lines
note: I would run Ace Slick or CCW wheels to clear the calipers
How well will the Z06 calipers hold up with my usage scenario?
What pads would you recommend running?HP Plus or HPS or ??
3. Do a Wilwood brake conversion w/stainless lines
note: same wheel choice as #2
The pads that come stock are their BP-10's
What would you do??
Are there other options I should consider, considering that I don't want to go much higher than $3k for an aftermarket BBK if that is the right choice. Or maybe the C6 Z06 with 2 piece rotors?? Or??
Please help, I have too much data and need some good insight/experienced comments now
So I finally have some track days coming up this year and I want to do some brake mods on my Z51 brakes.
My usage scenario is roughly;
75% of the time it is my daily driver, mainly highway and NorCal traffic
15% of the time it will be backroad corner carving and on/offramp terrorizing
10% of the time it will be doing some track days
Here are the options I am considering:
1.
Upgrade the rotors to 2 piece units from RacingBrake
http://www.racingbrake.com/Z51_s/3217.htm
And add stainless lines and Hawk HP Plus or HPS pads
2. Do a C6 Z06 brake conversion w/stainless lines
note: I would run Ace Slick or CCW wheels to clear the calipers
How well will the Z06 calipers hold up with my usage scenario?
What pads would you recommend running?HP Plus or HPS or ??
3. Do a Wilwood brake conversion w/stainless lines
note: same wheel choice as #2
The pads that come stock are their BP-10's
What would you do??
Are there other options I should consider, considering that I don't want to go much higher than $3k for an aftermarket BBK if that is the right choice. Or maybe the C6 Z06 with 2 piece rotors?? Or??
Please help, I have too much data and need some good insight/experienced comments now
#3
Team Owner
Given the time you are looking at doing track events, I would stay with stock rotors and use something like Hawk HPS for the street and then change pads to Hawk HP+ for track days.
Stock C5 rotors are not that expensive and relatively easy to change as needed. Same with the pads.
Rotors and pads are going to be high wear items and depending on the track and your braking habits, you could wind up spending lots of money on one set of high-zoot rotors only to have to replace them after a few events.
SS lines can be a help with pedal feel and going with a high-quality DOT4 fluid wil help to keep from boiling the fluid during hard braking. Look for a fluid with a wet boiling point of a minimum of 380 degrees. ATE Super Blue is not terrible expensive but you can go to something pricey like Motul 600 or Castrol SRF if you are really hard on the brakes and do not install cooling ducts to the front rotors (do this anyway to keep the front brakes cooler ).
Install a set of Speed Bleeders and bleed the lines before and after each track day.
Stock C5 rotors are not that expensive and relatively easy to change as needed. Same with the pads.
Rotors and pads are going to be high wear items and depending on the track and your braking habits, you could wind up spending lots of money on one set of high-zoot rotors only to have to replace them after a few events.
SS lines can be a help with pedal feel and going with a high-quality DOT4 fluid wil help to keep from boiling the fluid during hard braking. Look for a fluid with a wet boiling point of a minimum of 380 degrees. ATE Super Blue is not terrible expensive but you can go to something pricey like Motul 600 or Castrol SRF if you are really hard on the brakes and do not install cooling ducts to the front rotors (do this anyway to keep the front brakes cooler ).
Install a set of Speed Bleeders and bleed the lines before and after each track day.
#5
Racer
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Location: Jacksonville FL
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I dont confess to be an expert at this but after 3 years of running about 5 or 6 events per year this is what i would do also.
Keep you existing rotors. They are probably 30 bucks each at napa and if you crack one ya throw it out.
Get some Hawk pads for the track.
Go to the track.
Most important is get some seat time. THEN if you see some fading of your brakes and get comfortable with your car at the track add the following:
SS lines, ducts, and SS pistons in your calipers. Then go to a more aggressive pad (be prepared to throw your rotors out pretty quickly)
But at about that time take that 3k you were going to spend on brakes and buy some hoosiers or khumos. That will be your best bang for the dollar.
You can get yourself a set of pretty cross drilled/slotted rotors for your daily driving so they look cool. DONT take those things to the track. Use plain stock rotors.
THEN after a couple of YEARS on the track talk about spending 3k or more on brakes.
With the above set up i started at Roebling Road running 1.26 lap times. Then as i got better at driving and added brakes I ran 1.23 ish. Added tires and the last brake setup and now i run 119's. While thats no track record its pretty decent considering my mods.
#6
Safety Car
You might also grab some extra slider pins and the bracket bolts.
C5 Rotors:
NAPA: UP86700, UP86701, UP86702, UP86703
RockAuto: 56700, 56701, 56702, 56703
It takes some time to swap the brakes, but it's worth it to me, plus it's a great opportunity to do a pre-event check of everything at each corner.
Doing this also opens up the option of Hardbar's caliper bracket kits (C5, C6 Z51, C6Z rotor sizes are available, I think), or LGM's Wilwood kit (C5 rotors), or...
The other alternative is the RacingBrake 2-pc Z51 setup, and I believe they're working on a caliper kit, too. There's a CF member running SSBC calipers with good luck, too, and he's using C6 Z51 brackets (on a C5 Z even).
#7
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The stock rotors and probably pads will be fine for several track days. You just will not have the experience to over abuse them. The pads will tend to taper over a period of time leading to a long pedal but pumping the pedal before braking and learning how to manage your brakes can pay off in the future when you start to go faster and do have to move up to a better braking solution.
Bill
#8
Racer
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Thanks guys, this is the kind of feedback I needed
Sounds like I will be doing some new pads, ss lines, better fluid and if I get good, some rotors...
I'm not concerned about brake rotor bling for the street - go performance and stopping performance is what I care about. I really liked the stock brembo's my STi had and there was no rotor bling on those.
Keep the advice coming, my first track day is in April, so I have some time to plan and get everything setup
Sounds like I will be doing some new pads, ss lines, better fluid and if I get good, some rotors...
I'm not concerned about brake rotor bling for the street - go performance and stopping performance is what I care about. I really liked the stock brembo's my STi had and there was no rotor bling on those.
Keep the advice coming, my first track day is in April, so I have some time to plan and get everything setup
#9
Melting Slicks
The advice given is spot on. It just kills me the number of people that want to throw tons of money on mods for their car and they've never maximized what they have. That car properly set up is a rocket and will be more than 95% of the people can handle properly (no pun intended).
Put some good Carbotech XP pads on there, some SS lines and go drive the the crap out of it. It'll last...and be fast! ...so you can get more seat time baby!!!!!
Keep the mods to a bare minimum until you figure out what the car can and can't do...then think about modifying it. Drive hard!
Put some good Carbotech XP pads on there, some SS lines and go drive the the crap out of it. It'll last...and be fast! ...so you can get more seat time baby!!!!!
Keep the mods to a bare minimum until you figure out what the car can and can't do...then think about modifying it. Drive hard!
#10
I have a c6 z51 and I track it as much as possible. I started out with the stock equip and upgraded as needed. I currently run stock calipers motul 600 dot 4 fluid (keep it fresh), carbotech xp10 on front and xp8 on rear. I have been through several sets of pads and completely wore out 2 sets of rotors but have never cracked one yet or met anyone that has cracked a z51 rotor through. Use the stock pads on the street, back roads/canyon carving and the carbotechs or equivalent for the track. If you feel the need to spend money beyond the pads then start with ss lines and cooling ducts. The system works, leave it alone until it doesn't do what you want it to then upgrade.
#11
Le Mans Master
good pads and flush the fluid right before your track days and be done. The only mod it would suggest would be DRM Ducts and either LG or Phoenix spindle ducts
#12
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The advice given is spot on. It just kills me the number of people that want to throw tons of money on mods for their car and they've never maximized what they have. That car properly set up is a rocket and will be more than 95% of the people can handle properly (no pun intended).
the Stock Corvette PBR caliper is better then 80% of the BBKs out there. the PBR caliper with race brake pads, race fluid, SS lines and solid side rotors, THEY WILL UNDER BRAKE and out last almost any other combination.
They many not have the bling bling, but who cares, you dont see your brakes if your driving.