gkmccready

Well, I experienced my first cracked rotor on Monday afternoon. These rotors had seen three days, about 19 sessions, at Thunderhill. Second to last session the brake pedal had a little pulse to it and I searched all over for anything on the rotors. Not finding anything I assumed (!!) I had warped a rotor so I went out for the last session to be ginger on the brakes and just wrap up the day. As the session proceeded the pulses got worse and worse. When I got out of the car at the end of the session I finally found the crack in the LF rotor.

So for those that're new or those that have always managed to change rotors before cracking them... watch for that pulsing pedal and don't assume like I did that it's just a warped disc...

The 150mi drive home was an exercise in spacing and engine braking...

I really need to figure out how to get some brake ducts to fit around those Pfadt Pfatty swaybars on my C6... I didn't have time to modify the DRM ducts I'd been using previously, and after talking to Randy@DRM it sounded like the C6Z ducts wouldn't really flow enough air...

Anybody have a RockAuto discount code? I priced 4 front rotors yesterday at $78, but then they wanted $75 in shipping...

UstaB-GS549

If that shipping number is correct, you might be better off with NAPA rotors. From Rock Auto to Illinois was only about $12 shipping last time I ordered 4.

I had a rear rotor that had a slight vibration on first lap and it went away after it got hot. The next 20 minute practice session it would go away, so I brought car in and found the crack. I will never again assume that it is pad material build up and ignore vibration.

I too had a long drive home with a cracked front once. You really learn to look far ahead in traffic and try to manage interval.

StArrow68

I get my C5 rotors from NAPA and they now know I'm regular so they keep a set in stock. Just from experience, no data, I find that if I change rotors about the time I think they are going to go and get a new set that I run on the street for a while they last longer on the track with the seasoning. If I get stuck and change them on a track weekend and go back on track with new rotors, they don't last as long. It seems they need some moderate heat cycles to get good life.
Randy

BTW, I once made it from TH to Alamo without touching the brakes until I got to the off ramp, amazing what you can do when focused.

wtknght1

Here's a Rockauto code for you: 592161503267

2000BSME

local NAPA, $25 or so a piece. I have a spare set for just an occasion.

Miaugi

...glad you made it safely!

gkmccready

http://www.petting-zoo.net/corvette/Rotor-2007-02-26/

http://www.petting-zoo.net/corvette/...MG_0806-r.html

If you follow the crack towards the hat, the thin line that looks like a crack starting is what the big crack looked like at the end of the day. I was shocked to find the crack so wide when I got the wheels off yesterday.

FWIW, my local NAPA got the rotors for $28/ea, and then handed me a discount card 10% every day, 20% on Sundays. I think I know when I'll be shopping at NAPA...

Cbntmn

While the brake ducts will help but the rotors will still crack, depending on how agressive your pads are. Using stock pads mine tend to hold up better. A set of hawk dt70s will kill em in two days or less. i always have a spare set at the track.

Im not telling you not to do the ducts as you will have a better chance to not have brake fade. I have them along with SS lines, SS pistons, and DRM ducts. The brakes are as good as they can possibly be with an agressive set of pads. I abuse em pretty good too.

I would get em from Napa. Last time I ordered three sets from Rock Auto the shipping was crazy.

gkmccready

Yup. Nineteen (?) sessions on these rotors running PFC 01 pads. First fourteen with brake ducts. I'll be figuring out a way to get them back on around the Pfadt bars before the next track day.