Anyone Use a TPIS Oil Cooler?
03-19-2007, 08:42 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Anyone Use a TPIS Oil Cooler?
Been looking in to coolers for a little while here and I think I might get the TPIS unit. Cost wise it seems to be the best for the price. I'd love to do a radiator/cooler combo, but the cost is going to be around $500 more than the cost of the TPIS unit.
I've looked at the DRM unit and it looks to be about the same but cost is a little higher.
http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...oler+Kits+(LS1)
I've looked at the DRM unit and it looks to be about the same but cost is a little higher.
http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...oler+Kits+(LS1)
03-20-2007, 03:31 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
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I guess worse case is that it doesn't work quite as well as is should and I'd have to upgrade the cooler and have about the same money as a DRM stand alone...
03-20-2007, 03:49 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
I've got the DRM unit. Randy uses a Setrab oil cooler. They are more expensive than the Earl's units, and most other units for that matter. The DRM kit comes complete and installs pretty easily. It looks very similar to the picture on the TPIS site. Right down to the block adapter. DRM unit comes with all fittings installed and ready to go. Both ends of each hose have 90deg AN-10 fittings.
If the TIPS has straight on one end then that is the end that goes on the cooler. You'll need 90deg fittings to get on the adapter. It's kinda tight in there...
If the TIPS has straight on one end then that is the end that goes on the cooler. You'll need 90deg fittings to get on the adapter. It's kinda tight in there...
03-21-2007, 01:39 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
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Well I hate to be the guinea pig on things, but what the hell. I'll be ordering today, I'll leave feedback on this... I've been running around 298-300 for oil temps up till now, my first track day is on April 21st with more power than last year... guess we'll see.
03-21-2007, 03:31 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
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yeah i want to know too! 
let us know how it fits and what other parts you had to buy after you install it!
if its a smooth operation I am getting one!!!!!!!!
Good Luck !!!!!!
PS.......... are you going to put an oil thermostat on it?
let us know how it fits and what other parts you had to buy after you install it!
if its a smooth operation I am getting one!!!!!!!!
Good Luck !!!!!!
PS.......... are you going to put an oil thermostat on it?
03-21-2007, 08:12 PM
#9
Racer
Can you do me a favor and open it up to see if the lines have fittings on both ends? I called TPIS and they couldn't remember if they shipped them with one end on and the other needed to be installed, or if they were both attached. Thanks!
I guess worse case is that it doesn't work quite as well as is should and I'd have to upgrade the cooler and have about the same money as a DRM stand alone...
I guess worse case is that it doesn't work quite as well as is should and I'd have to upgrade the cooler and have about the same money as a DRM stand alone...
03-21-2007, 11:31 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Installation notes from installing the DRM unit. The TPIS doesn't really look any different. Their mounting bracket for the cooler looks a bit different. But I'll bet it still mounts on top of the bar that holds the center air dam section.
Only things I had to do installing the DRM unit. Make sure the center dam can fully rotate on its springs, like when you hit a speed bump. If the cooler bracket is not mounted properly it will interfere. The bolt that goes into the top of the oil line adapter is a bit of a pain to get in. Just have to be patient. Pay attention feeding the oil lines between the frame and the engine block. You can tie them down so they will not touch the block or anything that could cause an issue.
Work from back to front. Get your car on jack stands. Drain your oil and pull the filter. Remove oil temp sensor connector. Remove oil temp sensor mount and gasket. Remove sensor from factory mount. Install sensor in new adapter. Clean surface. Install new adapter with new gasket. Run the new oil lines end to end to get the length right. Any excess goes in the front. Connect them to the adapter and tighten them down. Make sure you get them lined up correctly so you clear exhaust manifold. Drill holes in air dam bar for mounting plate. Attach cooler to mounting plate. Attach lines to cooler. Tighten them so they point to the drivers side of the car parallel with the radiator. Install plate/cooler/lines to bar. Put on new oil filter and reinstall drain plug. Fill it up with oil. Start with 7qts. Mine takes 7.5-8qts. Between the cooler and the lines you just gained a quart more capacity. Remember that when you go to change your oil from now on.
Bump the engine a few times to prime the lines as your oil pressure will be really low first time the car is started. Then start and let idle. Your oil pressure should come up now to close to normal. After a few minutes of idling turn off engine. Check all the fittings to make sure you have no leaks. Take it off the jack stands and go for a test run. It'll take a while to get the oil hot now. In other than hot summer weather it won't easily get to 200deg. I made myself a cover for it for daily driving so the oil will get to normal temps pretty easily.
Graham
Only things I had to do installing the DRM unit. Make sure the center dam can fully rotate on its springs, like when you hit a speed bump. If the cooler bracket is not mounted properly it will interfere. The bolt that goes into the top of the oil line adapter is a bit of a pain to get in. Just have to be patient. Pay attention feeding the oil lines between the frame and the engine block. You can tie them down so they will not touch the block or anything that could cause an issue.
Work from back to front. Get your car on jack stands. Drain your oil and pull the filter. Remove oil temp sensor connector. Remove oil temp sensor mount and gasket. Remove sensor from factory mount. Install sensor in new adapter. Clean surface. Install new adapter with new gasket. Run the new oil lines end to end to get the length right. Any excess goes in the front. Connect them to the adapter and tighten them down. Make sure you get them lined up correctly so you clear exhaust manifold. Drill holes in air dam bar for mounting plate. Attach cooler to mounting plate. Attach lines to cooler. Tighten them so they point to the drivers side of the car parallel with the radiator. Install plate/cooler/lines to bar. Put on new oil filter and reinstall drain plug. Fill it up with oil. Start with 7qts. Mine takes 7.5-8qts. Between the cooler and the lines you just gained a quart more capacity. Remember that when you go to change your oil from now on.
Bump the engine a few times to prime the lines as your oil pressure will be really low first time the car is started. Then start and let idle. Your oil pressure should come up now to close to normal. After a few minutes of idling turn off engine. Check all the fittings to make sure you have no leaks. Take it off the jack stands and go for a test run. It'll take a while to get the oil hot now. In other than hot summer weather it won't easily get to 200deg. I made myself a cover for it for daily driving so the oil will get to normal temps pretty easily.
Graham
03-22-2007, 03:01 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
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Installation notes from installing the DRM unit. The TPIS doesn't really look any different. Their mounting bracket for the cooler looks a bit different. But I'll bet it still mounts on top of the bar that holds the center air dam section.
Only things I had to do installing the DRM unit. Make sure the center dam can fully rotate on its springs, like when you hit a speed bump. If the cooler bracket is not mounted properly it will interfere. The bolt that goes into the top of the oil line adapter is a bit of a pain to get in. Just have to be patient. Pay attention feeding the oil lines between the frame and the engine block. You can tie them down so they will not touch the block or anything that could cause an issue.
Work from back to front. Get your car on jack stands. Drain your oil and pull the filter. Remove oil temp sensor connector. Remove oil temp sensor mount and gasket. Remove sensor from factory mount. Install sensor in new adapter. Clean surface. Install new adapter with new gasket. Run the new oil lines end to end to get the length right. Any excess goes in the front. Connect them to the adapter and tighten them down. Make sure you get them lined up correctly so you clear exhaust manifold. Drill holes in air dam bar for mounting plate. Attach cooler to mounting plate. Attach lines to cooler. Tighten them so they point to the drivers side of the car parallel with the radiator. Install plate/cooler/lines to bar. Put on new oil filter and reinstall drain plug. Fill it up with oil. Start with 7qts. Mine takes 7.5-8qts. Between the cooler and the lines you just gained a quart more capacity. Remember that when you go to change your oil from now on.
Bump the engine a few times to prime the lines as your oil pressure will be really low first time the car is started. Then start and let idle. Your oil pressure should come up now to close to normal. After a few minutes of idling turn off engine. Check all the fittings to make sure you have no leaks. Take it off the jack stands and go for a test run. It'll take a while to get the oil hot now. In other than hot summer weather it won't easily get to 200deg. I made myself a cover for it for daily driving so the oil will get to normal temps pretty easily.
Graham
Only things I had to do installing the DRM unit. Make sure the center dam can fully rotate on its springs, like when you hit a speed bump. If the cooler bracket is not mounted properly it will interfere. The bolt that goes into the top of the oil line adapter is a bit of a pain to get in. Just have to be patient. Pay attention feeding the oil lines between the frame and the engine block. You can tie them down so they will not touch the block or anything that could cause an issue.
Work from back to front. Get your car on jack stands. Drain your oil and pull the filter. Remove oil temp sensor connector. Remove oil temp sensor mount and gasket. Remove sensor from factory mount. Install sensor in new adapter. Clean surface. Install new adapter with new gasket. Run the new oil lines end to end to get the length right. Any excess goes in the front. Connect them to the adapter and tighten them down. Make sure you get them lined up correctly so you clear exhaust manifold. Drill holes in air dam bar for mounting plate. Attach cooler to mounting plate. Attach lines to cooler. Tighten them so they point to the drivers side of the car parallel with the radiator. Install plate/cooler/lines to bar. Put on new oil filter and reinstall drain plug. Fill it up with oil. Start with 7qts. Mine takes 7.5-8qts. Between the cooler and the lines you just gained a quart more capacity. Remember that when you go to change your oil from now on.
Bump the engine a few times to prime the lines as your oil pressure will be really low first time the car is started. Then start and let idle. Your oil pressure should come up now to close to normal. After a few minutes of idling turn off engine. Check all the fittings to make sure you have no leaks. Take it off the jack stands and go for a test run. It'll take a while to get the oil hot now. In other than hot summer weather it won't easily get to 200deg. I made myself a cover for it for daily driving so the oil will get to normal temps pretty easily.
Graham
any smell Sticky? 
good info! great instructions!
03-22-2007, 03:01 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Phoenix Arizona
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Installation notes from installing the DRM unit. The TPIS doesn't really look any different. Their mounting bracket for the cooler looks a bit different. But I'll bet it still mounts on top of the bar that holds the center air dam section.
Only things I had to do installing the DRM unit. Make sure the center dam can fully rotate on its springs, like when you hit a speed bump. If the cooler bracket is not mounted properly it will interfere. The bolt that goes into the top of the oil line adapter is a bit of a pain to get in. Just have to be patient. Pay attention feeding the oil lines between the frame and the engine block. You can tie them down so they will not touch the block or anything that could cause an issue.
Work from back to front. Get your car on jack stands. Drain your oil and pull the filter. Remove oil temp sensor connector. Remove oil temp sensor mount and gasket. Remove sensor from factory mount. Install sensor in new adapter. Clean surface. Install new adapter with new gasket. Run the new oil lines end to end to get the length right. Any excess goes in the front. Connect them to the adapter and tighten them down. Make sure you get them lined up correctly so you clear exhaust manifold. Drill holes in air dam bar for mounting plate. Attach cooler to mounting plate. Attach lines to cooler. Tighten them so they point to the drivers side of the car parallel with the radiator. Install plate/cooler/lines to bar. Put on new oil filter and reinstall drain plug. Fill it up with oil. Start with 7qts. Mine takes 7.5-8qts. Between the cooler and the lines you just gained a quart more capacity. Remember that when you go to change your oil from now on.
Bump the engine a few times to prime the lines as your oil pressure will be really low first time the car is started. Then start and let idle. Your oil pressure should come up now to close to normal. After a few minutes of idling turn off engine. Check all the fittings to make sure you have no leaks. Take it off the jack stands and go for a test run. It'll take a while to get the oil hot now. In other than hot summer weather it won't easily get to 200deg. I made myself a cover for it for daily driving so the oil will get to normal temps pretty easily.
Graham
Only things I had to do installing the DRM unit. Make sure the center dam can fully rotate on its springs, like when you hit a speed bump. If the cooler bracket is not mounted properly it will interfere. The bolt that goes into the top of the oil line adapter is a bit of a pain to get in. Just have to be patient. Pay attention feeding the oil lines between the frame and the engine block. You can tie them down so they will not touch the block or anything that could cause an issue.
Work from back to front. Get your car on jack stands. Drain your oil and pull the filter. Remove oil temp sensor connector. Remove oil temp sensor mount and gasket. Remove sensor from factory mount. Install sensor in new adapter. Clean surface. Install new adapter with new gasket. Run the new oil lines end to end to get the length right. Any excess goes in the front. Connect them to the adapter and tighten them down. Make sure you get them lined up correctly so you clear exhaust manifold. Drill holes in air dam bar for mounting plate. Attach cooler to mounting plate. Attach lines to cooler. Tighten them so they point to the drivers side of the car parallel with the radiator. Install plate/cooler/lines to bar. Put on new oil filter and reinstall drain plug. Fill it up with oil. Start with 7qts. Mine takes 7.5-8qts. Between the cooler and the lines you just gained a quart more capacity. Remember that when you go to change your oil from now on.
Bump the engine a few times to prime the lines as your oil pressure will be really low first time the car is started. Then start and let idle. Your oil pressure should come up now to close to normal. After a few minutes of idling turn off engine. Check all the fittings to make sure you have no leaks. Take it off the jack stands and go for a test run. It'll take a while to get the oil hot now. In other than hot summer weather it won't easily get to 200deg. I made myself a cover for it for daily driving so the oil will get to normal temps pretty easily.
Graham
anyone smell Sticky? good info! great instructions!
