mountainbiker2

I would like to put in longer bolts where the original seat studs are that hold the seat to the floor. Has anyone removed them? If so, how do you do it. I was thinking I could try to hammer them out. If not, maybe I could drill them out.

Thanks,
Steve

davidfarmer

they welded in, I'm pretty sure. I would cut them flush, then drill new holes the size you need. Assuming you are using an aftermarket seat of some type, you may find you can drill the new holes for better placement (ie wider/narrower).

The front mount is so far forward, you pretty much have to build/buy a custom mount for just about any seat anyway. I made mine out of 1/4" aluminum angle from ebay.

John Shiels

I did it as per DRM removal instructions BFH! I have threaded eye bolts that go through my seat mount and my belts attach to them. I ran it by 3 people in the know and got the thumbs up on my idea. I was worried about the eye bolt strength. They all told me by the time the eye bolt broke the belts would cut me in two. Eye bolt was forged with listed loads at different angles of pull form MSC. Smack them a few times and the drop out they are tracked not fully welded. I have pictures if you want.


http://shielsmasonry.com/eyeboltnutwasher.jpg
http://shielsmasonry.com/eyeboltseat.jpg
http://shielsmasonry.com/eyebolt1.jpg
http://shielsmasonry.com/eyebolt2.jpg
http://shielsmasonry.com/eyebolts3ALL.jpg

I use the bolt on the right as the standard seat bolt were to short to pass through my seat brackets and the floor

davidfarmer

FIA belt mounts use eyelets, so I consider them strong enough. Of course the ones that came with my Schroth belts were too short, so I welded them into the frame (on the outside) and steel tub (on the inside).

mountainbiker2

Do you have a link on these instructions?

Both of you guys helped me a lot. With me race seat and brackets for the belts, I didn't feel comfortable with the short seat studs.

thanks again.

Steve

danswofford

Beat the threaded bolt from inside the car, back and forth a bunch of times and they will fall out. They are tack welded in.

Jason

hallefreakinlujah!
Another 1/4" would solve all my seat install problems.

mountainbiker2

That's what my friend said that owns a Mustang. Have you done this. I just don't want something to happen and I have no studs to mount my seat.

thanks,
Steve

John Shiels

yea just tap them side to side and down then use a bolt and a washers. BFH Big F_ckin Hammer It seems crude but it works best!

Face

Worked for me.

ghoffman

That is why we make the very trick thread adapters that are part of our seat rail kit. They turn the short M10 studs into longer M14 studs.


Do it right.

Jason

Just did it tonight. I had to cut part of the head off with a cutoff wheel, but that's probably because my rollbar mounting plate wouldn't let me get a good side-to-side swing at the stud. Made the 300th installation (in the last two days) of my race seat a breeze.
BFH FTW.

danswofford

Once you whack the OE bolts out there will be a hole in the floor and you will have to put in your own bolts and washers; bigger ones or taller ones, whatever. There won't be a threaded hole that you can put in a taller stud if that is what you were thinking. The seat bolt is a stud and a bigger flange that you can see under the car, it is one piece. When you whack the threaded bolt out the bigger flange comes out with it, not you got a hole in the floor.

mountainbiker2

Just got done knocking out the bolts. I put a socket underneath the car with a jack. That way the metal won't get deformed.

My steel brackets are out of 1/8" angle iron. I wonder if that's thick enough?

thanks for the help.

Steve

danswofford

1/8th is strong enough.

gkmccready

I'd use a Nylok on that because of all the vibration, and a large washer under the car to help spread the load.

ghoffman

It is still so incorrect. The moments could kill you.

mountainbiker2

Can you explain?

John Shiels

My guess the way it will load with leverage but Gary will have the full story I hope.

ghoffman

It is being loaded off to one side and that generates bending on the stud in at least 2 axes. In addition, the eyebolt is to the rear which creates another moment (lever arm) that is trying to pry it up. I am not trying to be mean, but I don't want to see anyone get hurt.