2000BSME

Hey fellas, I saw 300 degrees on my last and fastest session this weekend, and I plan on buying a Dewitts radiator with the trans cooler and engine oil cooler in it.

Question is this: what can I do about routing the lines to it? I would also like a remote oil filter location if possible, and I want the lines to be strong and secure.

Please advise.

thanks

davidfarmer

you should leave the oil filter where it is. A sandwich moves it down dangerously close to the ground, the there just isn't room for most adapters. I really like the wheel-to-wheel adapter, goes where the oil temp sensor is. If you have headers, it is a tight fit, but otherwise, this is the best unit I've used (and I've used several).

http://www.w2wpowertrain.com/pc-53-3...k-for-ls1.aspx

You will simply run the lines up the drivers side to the radiator, then across to the fittings on the passenger side. Lots of plastic to zip-tie everything to. I recommend stainless line for this application....if you can't make your own, you can find someone to put the ends on for you.

btw, I've run 320oil temps before. GM's cheaped on on the oil cooler, and that is why they make us run synthetic oil. Even my stocker 97' approaches 300, with only 306hp!

yakisoba

Why move the filter? No need, and you will not want to do that just to support a sandwich adapter.

Routing lines is pretty easy. Just look for spaces where stuff doesn't move around too much under suspension travel. I'd use stainless line and cover it with cut sections of heater hose where it gets in contact with the car, then zip tie around the heater hose sheath. The steel can abraid anything, and also gets abraided in turn, so the lines will degrade over time, unless you pad them with something. They can eat through your zip ties too.

With this system, you are adding another item to your pre-track checklist. That's not a bad thing at all, just something to remember to do before you put your right foot down.

2000BSME

thanks for the replies, I have a good starting point now.

-I do have headers.

VetteDrmr

You might want to check out my install guide here:

http://webpages.charter.net/VetteDrmr/

It's for an external cooler install, but the engine adapter, line fabrication, etc. could be of use to you. BTW, this car had LG LT's installed.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

larryfs

320 is the max. I wouldn't worry about it until you consistantly hit 320, and the warning light comes on.

John Shiels

QUOTE=larryfs;1559560352]320 is the max. I wouldn't worry about it until you consistantly hit 320, and the warning light comes on.[/QUOTE]

Yea don't worry!



My oil was 299 and just fine! 300 is what did it!

larryfs

john and I will have our annual debate

while his combustion temps exceeds 1500 degrees, 300 did nothing to his motor. Just failed due to Fatigue..................

0Tom@Dewitt

We have this one by Lingenfelter

http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=366

It has a port for the temp sender and an extra one for supercharger oil tap. You might also want to consider the left side oil cooler as it's a lot easier to plumb up.

davidfarmer

left side is the hot side, right Tom?? I prefer cooling the oil as much as possible.

For what it's worth, 300 doesn't melt pistons, the combustion temps do that. Now, the oil temps might have started a chain reaction (low pressure, excessive friction, etc) that led to it, but the high temps itself probably didn't. But what do I know.....

John Shiels

end result goodbye motor. So big rad and oil cooler cooler motor more HP longer life.

Bill Dearborn

Why not move the filter? The adapter that goes on the engine oil filter mount is not a sandwich adapter. There is nothing attached to it except the hoses that attach to the side of the adapter. You can use a larger filter and tuck it in front of the engine and it can actually be higher than the stock filter.



This is where my remote filter is located. If it weren't for the thermostatic bypass valve in the center of the picture the plumbing would be just the line from the engine going into the filter and a line coming out of the filter going to the cooler. The return line from the cooler would go back to the engine. The bypass valve probably wouldn't be needed if the oil cooler is in the drivers side radiator tank.

Bill

vms4evr

Not get Larry and John into their annual debate

But one thing about oil temp readings that I believe is not being accounted for here. When you have the DIC set to display oil temp. Aren't you seeing the temperature at the sensor? It is sitting next to the oil filter and seeing oil temps as they return from the engine. This is not the same temperature that is on critical internal components like crankshaft. connecting rods, bearings, pistons, etc.. No? I'm not sure what the real temp is on those parts but it seems like the delta would be fairly high?

Miguels

Do you have a link? Also what is the difficultly to install...read about the left side mount in the other threads you posted on.

0Tom@Dewitt

Here is the link to the full line. The C5 stuff is at the bottom of the page. I didn't pick out one particular part link because we have several options for C5

http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categor...s.asp?catID=19

John Shiels

I want Larry to give me his motor/car to run at the track and spin it up the way I do mine and see how long it last.

VetteDrmr

I've heard (no direct experience or measurements) that the internals run about 40-50 degrees higher for the hottest components. Don't know if it's true, but hey, this is the Internet, created and owned by Al Gore, who never lies or exaggerates, right?

Have a good one,
Mike

larryfs

I run my LT4 to 285 degrees every session. Depending on the track, I will hit 300. But it depends on the track and the RPM range I'm using.

I brought all the components for the oil cooler due to all this internet hype, but never installed them. I started doing some research, & I think GM engineering and Mobil1 got this one figured out.

Also seems the winning T1 driver for the past few years decided to save the ~20lbs.

0Randy@DRM

Back in the day of showroom stock endro racing. We ran over 300 degrees for 24 hours. After the race it was a good thing if we could reuse the crank, rods, and pistons, or if we could start them again after they cooled down. The oil looked like crap, smelt horrible, bearing were crap, pistons had signs of growth and scuffing. Cam bearings Windage tray looked like someone took a torch to it because there were all sorts of pretty colors. The funny part is all this was done on a low reving L98. Now the LS motors spin harder, make more power, have tighter piston to wall clearance and etc. I wouldn't run a DE, HPDE, race, auto-x or other none $$$ races without one.

Running a motor at 300 for every track mile = my friends dad living until 90, drinking, smoking, eating fast food every day. It happens but your odds aren't that great.

Randy
PS Oil is the blood of the engine.

VetteDrmr

Didn't realize until I saw your video post that you're running an A4. If you're seeing engine oil temps of 300, what are your tranny temps running? Or, do you have supplemental cooling for your tranny?

Have a good one,
Mike